:( My Agfa fell apart !!

Discussion in 'Large Format Cameras and Accessories' started by John Bartley, Aug 1, 2005.

  1. John Bartley

    John Bartley Member

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    As I was carrying it into the house, I heard a little "click". Figuring that the latch that holds the rear rail had come undone, I looked down to find the front standard sitting at about a 30' angle - HORRORS !!. It's now in the basement, on the workbench, all glued back together and clamped tight for a day or so. All that had happened is that the glue that holds the front slide rails into place had dried up and come apart - NO DAMAGE :smile: !! I guess while I'm at it, I'm going to drill and dowel all the screw holes with 1/4" hardwood dowels so that the wood screws go back into fresh tight wood. Should be good for another 1/2 century.

    cheers
     
  2. John Kasaian

    John Kasaian Member

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    Rugged little things, aren't they? I collected a passel for an adult class I've been planning---most are fixer uppers---but darn they were so well designed and built I figure they can stand the abuse better than anyhting else at the price. Since AA routinely emperiled his by balancing it atop his caddy's roof, thats a good enough endorsement for me.
     
  3. noseoil

    noseoil Member

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    John, sounds like a good tune-up is all that's needed. Glad to hear it wasn't anything requiring major surgery. Sounds like the right way to go with the plugs. Are you going to use cross-grain or end-grain? When we made plugs for cross bolts in the recoil lug area for model '98 & '96 Mausers, we would use a plug cutter to make rosewood plugs to finish off the holes. Don't need rosewood, but cross grain plugs will hold threads a bit better (maple, oak, etc). Best, tim
     
  4. John Bartley

    John Bartley Member

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    "Rugged" is definitely a good word to describe these with. As I took it apart I inspected it very carefully and I'm pretty sure that I'm only the second repairman. The first one just glued a break back together and did a nice job at that.

    Tim, I never thought about the idea of "cross" grain and the increase in strength. As a result, tonight my sweetheart and I are off to buy a 1/4" plug cutter (something my woodworking arsenal has never had) and it's all your fault :smile: !!

    Just as an aside, many years ago, I bought a K98? 8mm Mauser from Alberts Army Surplus in Timmins, Ont. It was a bloody cannon!! IIRC, the original barrel date was 1912? and rebarrelled in 192? in Danzig. It had a nifty sort of a sight on it that would both flip over for different distance scales and would flip up so that you could sight thru' a little pinhole. I sold it years ago - haven't seen one since.
     
  5. noseoil

    noseoil Member

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    Model '96

    Dave, I enjoyed working on the Swedish Mausers. They were very well made, great metallurgy and never fought in a war, plus they were cheap to buy. Sweden was always very careful about that and still is. The '96 was said to be among the most accurate versions built, and I would have to agree. I turned a few of them into sporters for deer hunting and target shooting. It was the last interation before the venerable '98, but did not have the third locking lug as was the case in the '98 and all later variants. It was made in 6.5 x 55mm (.264 caliber) and with handloads was good from an 85 grain hollow point up to the 160 round nose (issue round in Sweden at the time).

    Here's a picture of one I still have. The stock blank was turned here by the Harry Lawson company. I brought them a nice hunk of American Walnut which was a find here in Tucson (it came from Missouri originally) and the roughed out a blank was returned to me. Did the inletting, glass bedding, reshaped some metal and had a couple of other tweaks done by a local gunsmith. It still shoots very well. Since I'm not very tall, I like the short rifle concept and this one fits the bill. The issue barrel was 29.1" long and it weighed a ton. The wood really is beautiful on this stock. Best, tim
     
  6. mgb74

    mgb74 Subscriber

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    I'm scanning the new posts on APUG and all of the sudden I see a reference to Swedish Mausers. Boy, now I'm confused.

    But since YOU brought up Swedish Mausers, I'll offer up the Swiss Schmidt-Rubin K31. Incredible workmanship that is hard to duplicate today.

    A bit like the Swiss-made Alpa SLRs, in the sense of basic functionality with extremely high fit and finish.
     
  7. noseoil

    noseoil Member

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    Hope we don't get punished or banned for hijacking this thread. Think we should report ourselves or will John save us from ourselves? tim
     
  8. John Bartley

    John Bartley Member

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    Aahhh - deze gyze - I'm telling ya' - give 'em half a chance to chew da rag about guns or trucks and y'll nevver get 'em back on track eh? :rolleyes:

    Punishment for thread hijacking = ya' each gotta post one new photo in your gallery by the end of the month - (and that includes me :cool: ) how's that :tongue:

    cheers eh?
     
  9. noseoil

    noseoil Member

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    John, I raise my stout to thee, bye! A photo will be posted. tim
     
  10. John Bartley

    John Bartley Member

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    Starting the work

    So, I now have the necessary equipment in hand or more accurately in the basement, as it would be turrible hard to type holding a drill press. I have started to repair the screw holes in the bed of the Agfa with hardwood plugs and it's going just peachy well :smile:. I do have a question though.

    The front board of the camera is 6.5" long. The first section of tailboard, the board which hinges, is 13.5" long. I know that if I don't preload the hinge during assembly, the tailboard will suffer from "droop".

    I'm guessing that if I elevate the furthest end of the tailboard (from the hinge) approx 1/8" to 3/16" I should be able to pilot drill the hinge screw holes, fasten them tight and have the tailboard come down snug on the joint with no "droop" because of a bit of interference fit at the joint itself.

    Does anyone have any experience with this operation? How high would you lift the tailboard for the "preload"?

    cheers eh?
     
  11. noseoil

    noseoil Member

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    John, is this a piano hinge or a butt hinge? Without seeing it, I'm having a difficult time picturing the assembly and process (don't own a camera like yours and not sure I'm looking at it correctly). Is there any way you could post an image of this so we can take a look?

    That having been said, there are one or two tricks you can use on a piano-type hinge to tighten it up if necessary, before drilling pilot holes for the wood for screws. Remember the old end cutters? They nip parallel to the hinge axis, not perpendicular as would a wire cutter or dikes. If you have an old dull pair, you can grind a little bit out of them so that a flat results where each cutting edge is, the width and thickness of a hinge lobe. First, remove any extra width of the cutter's edge which would hit adjacent lobes, with a die grinder or bench grinder, carefully. Keep the ground-down flats as close to parallel as possible and the exact width of the hinge lobe. Once this is done, use the nipper as a tightening tool to crimp the hinge lobe gently onto the wire. Not too tight, but enough to take out any slop which will result in a wiggly tail board connection. Then position things to pre-drill pilot holes.

    One trick we used for piano hinges and a snug fit for small cabinet doors was double back tape, the good stuff. Clean off the wood so no residue or dust is there. Use double back tape on the hinge face and locate the hinge on both parts. Look at it and gently move things around to make sure everything is in place. If things are good, use a pilot bit to do the 4 outboard holes first. Fasten with screws and then see what you have. It is easy to move things a tad by off-setting the next hole if it needs just a "fartskin" of adjustment (sorry, this is an exceedingly fine increment of measurement, don't have a better one). Allow a little bit for the thickness of the two layers of tape.

    Hopefully this is an answer to your question and not a wild goose chase, eh? tim
     
  12. John Bartley

    John Bartley Member

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    .....

    IT LIVES :D !!!!


    Doh !! I swiped my sweethearts digital camera (and got caught !!) and went downstairs to take a couple of pictures. Then I looked at the Agfa and started playing with it a bit to try and visualise how to assemble it. Before I knew it, I was putting the last screw into the hinge - sorry no pictures!!

    Anyway, it's a butt hinge holding together two wooden plates that line up with a half-round tongue and groove - kinda' like on a drop leaf table only the tailboard drops "up" :smile:. I raised and supported the end of the tailboard that's furthest from the hinge 1/16" and then centre punched the hinge holes. It's TIGHT !! there is NO droop :smile: Everything tracks perfectly, so it's off to spoil more film for me :D.

    cheers and thanks for the suggestions !!
     
  13. noseoil

    noseoil Member

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    Sounds good. Way to go, John! tim