Need dilution adjustment HELP

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by mark, Feb 27, 2005.

  1. mark

    mark Member

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    I mixed a working batch of fixer-the last in the bottle-and stupidly mixed it 1:4 when I should have mixed it 1:11. It is 1 liter of solution. How do I get it to 1:9? It is all the fixer I had left so remixing is not an option and it was my last empty bottle. I now have fixer for film but want fixer for POP.
     
  2. Nick Zentena

    Nick Zentena Member

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    The 1 litre you have now is 1:4. So that's

    200ml fixer
    800ml water.

    Or 20% fixer concentrate.

    You want 1:9 or 10% concentrate.

    1/2 litre of the 1:4 mixed with 1/2 litre of water. Will give you

    100ml of fixer concentrate
    900ml of water.

    I think that's right.
     
  3. juan

    juan Subscriber

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    If I understand what you've done (mixed 250ml of fix with 750ml of water) wouldn't you just add 1500ml of water to get to 1:9? I'm no math wizard, so I could be wholly wrong. But then again, unless POP is much different than silver gelatin paper, it's just fixer - I wouldn't think the dilution would need to be exact.
    juan
     
  4. Ronald Moravec

    Ronald Moravec Member

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    He wants 1;11, not 1:9.

    200 ml stock now in 1 liter. Use 1/2 which is 500 ml containing 100 ml stock. You already have 400 ml of water and want 1100. Add 700 ml more water to it.
     
  5. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    If you read it again he said he had meant to mix 1:11 but then he says he now wants 1:9

    He knows best :smile:

    But POP should be fixed in a plain Hypo solution not commercial fixer which will bleach the image extremely rapidly
     
  6. mark

    mark Member

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    Yes I want 1:11

    Plain hypo is best but regular fixer diluted way way down does a good job too. At least from what I have seen.
     
  7. Ole

    Ole Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    You're right there - I use commercial rapid fixer diluted 1+50 from working strength if the highlights are grubby! Any stronger than that and the bleaching action is too rapid and difficult to control, and tends to get blotchy.


    Mark: If you want fixer for POP, try to get hold of "plain hypo", AKA sodium thiosulfate. Commercial fixers tend to contain too much other stuff, worst of all is ammonium. Bleaches your nice print right back to paper white!
     
  8. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    " ... from working strength ... " That would be 1:250 or
    1:500? Either way that's more dilute than the 1:49 I use as
    a one-shot with prints; P. Formulary's, nothing added. Dan
     
  9. mark

    mark Member

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    I gave up. I will be pilfering some sodium thiosulfate from a kalitype kit and I will be ordering a big bunch because I hate running out and doing stupid things like this. Plus I will be doing things the way they are supposed to be done, instead of trying to cut corners.
     
  10. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    You gave up your dilution. You stopped at 1:4.
    Finish the dilution. Add more water; 7 volumes
    more of the amount of concentrate you
    started with. Dan
     
  11. mark

    mark Member

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    I did but it still bleached the print way faster than I have seen it do it in the past, and the toning brought nothing back. I honestly do not know what was going on. I just need to do it right.
     
  12. Ole

    Ole Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    As I said, Mark... :wink:

    It's useful to know you can use rapid fixer as bleach with POP! It will bleach less if you tone the print before fixing, though...

    But for "real" fixing, nothing beats plain hypo.