New TMAX400 in Pyrocat HD

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by tony lockerbie, Apr 11, 2009.

  1. tony lockerbie

    tony lockerbie Subscriber

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    Just mixed up a new batch, and was wondering if anyone has tried the new TMax 400 with Pyrocat. I would appreciate others comments on how it looks, times, EI's etc.
    Thanks,
    Tony
     
  2. Richard Wasserman

    Richard Wasserman Member

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    This is a great combination, I use it in 120 and 4x5. I generally rate TMY-2 at 320EI and develop for 15 minutes at 70 degrees (21C), agitating every minute.

    Richard Wasserman
     
  3. Alex Hawley

    Alex Hawley Member

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    Ditto what Richard said. A marvelous combination. I'm using rotary processing for 4x5 and 8x10, 2:2:100 for 8 minutes. Prints at Grade 2.5 on Ilford MGIV and Grade 2 Slavich using PF 130 1:2. Quite satisfactory. Exposed at advertised speed asa 400.
     
  4. Alex Hawley

    Alex Hawley Member

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    Tony, here's a negative scan developed per above. I tweaked it to resemble the print made on Slavich paper.
     

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  5. Alex Hawley

    Alex Hawley Member

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    Tony, this negative is what sold me on the new Kodak Tmax 400. Contrast range on the subject was extreme yet the main body is very flat. Developed in Pyrocat HD with extreme minimal agitation. The negative came out very dense requiring split grade printing.
     
  6. sanking

    sanking Member

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    Alex,

    Unless the monitor is deceiving my eyes that negative sure has some pronounced edge effects?

    Sandy



     
  7. Alex Hawley

    Alex Hawley Member

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    Yeah Sandy, it does. Highly necessary for this very bland rock formation and I cooked it extra hard just for that reason. However, some of this you see may be accentuated by the scanning process.
     
  8. Kimberly Anderson

    Kimberly Anderson Member

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    I am trying this combo as well, but I am rating the film at 200. 400 just seemed a little too thin for me. Shooting in 8x10, trying to decide if I like it enough to order some 8x20. Processing in a JOBO at the recommended times.
     
  9. sanking

    sanking Member

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    Michael,

    I meter with BTZS incident type metering, i.e. exposure is based on one single shadow value reading, but effective film speed is doubled. So I rate TMY at EI 800 and expose based on the single shadow value reading. With this procedure I get more than enough exposure in open shadows.

    One could also take a shadow value incident reading, and one in the highlights, and average the two, using box film speed. However, my main concern is to not lose any open shadow detail so I take the meter to the shadows and read there.

    Sandy






     
  10. tony lockerbie

    tony lockerbie Subscriber

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    Wow, thanks everyone, especially Alex. I have just started trying TMY, developing in XTOL, and it seems an excellent emulsion. Will give it a go in Pyrocat, which is my favourite developer.
    Tony
     
  11. erikg

    erikg Member

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    It's a great combo, the film is pretty awesome. I switched a few years back after some issues I was having with HP-5, and I haven't looked back. I shoot 120 mainly, some 4x5 and 810. I've been shooting 35mm lately too, it's as sharp as most medium speed films. I get an EI of 400, develop 2:2:100 for 7.5 min @ 72.
     
  12. c6h6o3

    c6h6o3 Member

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    15 minutes would really fry my negatives. My normal time with the old TMY was 11 minutes at 70 degrees and the new stuff is at least 1 stop contrastier.

    Those of you who've shot this film in 120: have you noticed any effects from the dreaded anti-UV backing in the base? I was told that this was to be added to the production run. (but only for 120 and not sheet film).
     
  13. Alex Hawley

    Alex Hawley Member

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    I've noticed a blue tinge in 120 negative scans but it doesn't seem to have any effect when printing. Converting the scan to grayscale does away with it.
     
  14. Kimberly Anderson

    Kimberly Anderson Member

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    I'll try metering a negative like that soon. I haven't shot in a while, so it'll be a good excuse. I have not tried that method before. I may have to read up on it a bit. I'm using the good old place zone III in the shadow w/detail, hold the highlights, etc...