Omega D5500 Filter Wheel Rubber Repair

Discussion in 'Darkroom Equipment' started by ic-racer, Jul 2, 2011.

  1. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    I have been using the D5500 heads for about 9 years and have not had to replace the wheels on any of my units. Rather than replacing them prior to failure, I wanted to see how they fail.

    This head had clear rubber wheels and they pretty much crumbled on me last night.

    This is how it looked when I took the head apart:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2011
  2. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Next step, I removed the filter plates. I usually don't clean the filters unless they are severely dirty. Too much risk of breakage.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    The filter wheels are held on to the motor shafts by SAE grub screws. Some shafts are "D" shaped and some are round. I removed the wheels and cleaned off the residual rubber:
    [​IMG]
     
  4. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    I have a good selection of HO slot car tires. Jonny Lightning re-issue Aurora "Tough-One" tires seemed the best fit. The aftermarket "Jel Claw" tires #ST-2010 also fit well (they are not that good for racing, though).
    http://www.jelclaws.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=19

    [​IMG]
     
  5. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    They seemed to fit well without glue.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    You can't really get to the grub screws on the shortest shaft motor without taking the motor out. Be careful, the motor is spring loaded. The little black axle-screws that hold the motor in place are unique to this head and made of 'UNOBTANIUM' ! I think the threads on the axle-screws are metric, because the motors are made in Germany.

    When you take the motor out, a fiber plate falls out. This needs to go between the front of the motor and the chassis. There is a hole in it and one of the motor mount screws holds it in place.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2011
  7. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    I have had the motors and reduction gearboxes apart. From what I can tell there were two styles. The early style had straight cut gears in the gearbox and is noisy (like a vintage Ferrari gearbox). The later motors have helical cut gears and are much quieter.
     
  8. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Here it is all ready to go be put back together. Make sure the wheel assemblies are on the motor shaft in the correct position so they don't accidentally rub on two filters at the same time. There is very little tolerance.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    BTW I never use the "WHITE" button unless I'm setting the lightbox calibration trimmers, as it chews up the wheels over time. The way it is set up, when you press "WHITE," it does not know how far each filter needs to go to get to the top, so it just runs them for a certain amount of time and the rubber wheels grind on the filter for a few seconds after they get to the top. If your lightbox calibration is way off or buggered, then the motors may keep running an grind/slip continuously until you shut the unit off.

    Instead of using "WHITE" just punch in "O" for your filtration, that way the filters stop as soon as it detects white, without grinding the wheels.

    BTW when I last checked (a little over a year ago) Omega was still selling replacement wheels and shafts. customerservice@omegabrandess.com
     
  10. Ed Sukach

    Ed Sukach Member

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    Good article!

    I've heard that 8mm aquarium tubing works well.

    Wish I knew about all theses fixes before i sprung for US$90 for the wheels from Omega.
     
  11. mgb74

    mgb74 Subscriber

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    I have this same issue with a recently acquired D5500 and CLS head. Is it necessary to remove the bushings from the motors? I'm thinking of using some latex tubing if I can find the right size.
     
  12. darinwc

    darinwc Subscriber

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    Wow, I will have to try these. I wish I had seen this a few years ago.
     
  13. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    I need to update this thread. After 4 years the slot car tires became "D" shaped or split. I currently am using silicone model aircraft tubing with success.
     
  14. AgX

    AgX Member

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    I would have looked for apt neoprene- or silicone-rubber tubings. I likely would not have thought of those IC-car tires. Good idea too. Though not so good as it turned out...


    But if being busy with that assembly I likely would have at least considered sprocked wheels and toothed racks instead too.
    But I do not know what is available from modelling or mechanics dealers.

    Had you considered sprocket wheels?
     
  15. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    d5500 roller

    id 6.45mm 0.25393701" on 8mm 0.31496063" shaft
    5mm 0.19685039" width
    11mm od 0.43307087"
     
  16. mgb74

    mgb74 Subscriber

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    I wonder if the 1/4" ID and 7/16" OD latex tubing from here would work? Alternatively, the .5" OD is a bit high, but would likely stretch down a bit if placed on a .31" shaft.

    A medical supply store might stock it also.