Oops. Tri-X @ 12,500

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Ektagraphic, Aug 2, 2012.

  1. Ektagraphic

    Ektagraphic Member

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    Hi Guys-

    I had set out to shoot some Tri-X @3200. My exposure was supposed to be 1/30 f4 for the whole roll. The camera ended up being set at 1/125 f3.5 for the whole roll. I figure that I pretty much exposed the film as if it were ISO 12500. I have never pushed Tri-X THIS much. Now that I am home and figured out that I did this, what developer would any of you recommend. I have D-76, X-Tol, and T-Max developer at my disposal but would certainly be willing to pick up any developer that would allow the film to still be pretty usable.

    Patrick
     
  2. Brian C. Miller

    Brian C. Miller Member

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    I haven't tried pushing Tri-X that far. You might want to use a split developer.

    From trying to work with TMax 400 at 3200 and 6400, what I found out is that there just needs to be a certain amount of light to make the film work. You'll only get the very top bright spots, and that's it. But do go ahead and develop it, because you never really know what's on the roll!
     
  3. wilfbiffherb

    wilfbiffherb Member

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    maybe get hold of some rodinal (its cheap and last forever) and try stand developing it for 2 hours. that will bring out any detail on your film.
     
  4. Michael R 1974

    Michael R 1974 Subscriber

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    Ektagraphic - I would call that film unusable by a long shot. If you want to try anyway, you can use any of the developers you listed. For that much overdevelopment it won't make a difference which one. You should dilute the D76 or XTOL to at least 1+3 if you want to try this. The idea would be to use a long development time with less agitation than normal in an attempt to get maximum shadow detail while restraining the highlights somewhat.
     
  5. newtorf

    newtorf Member

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    A quick thought, how about shoot the whole roll again in normal condition? ;-)
     
  6. Ektagraphic

    Ektagraphic Member

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    From some stuff that I had found on the web, I think Rodinal and stand development may work best....I wish I could re-shoot it but it was a concert :sad:
     
  7. Michael R 1974

    Michael R 1974 Subscriber

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    A long development time in XTOL diluted 1+3, with reduced agitation (say 15 seconds agitation every 2 to 3 minutes after 1 minute initial agitation) will give you at least as much speed as stand Rodinal, probably more, and better contrast control. And without the stand development risks.
     
  8. Ektagraphic

    Ektagraphic Member

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    What would I use for a development time Michael?
     
  9. zsas

    zsas Member

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    Would it be possible to re-shoot a test roll in similar conditions (say indoor in your house), and test what is being proposed (ie Xtol 1+3)?
     
  10. E. von Hoegh

    E. von Hoegh Member

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    You could just shoot a few frames and snip that part of the film off in the darkroom, saving the rest of the roll.
     
  11. Ektagraphic

    Ektagraphic Member

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    Since the pictures are so worth it to me, I'll probably attempt to run a test.
     
  12. zsas

    zsas Member

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    Even better!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2012
  13. zsas

    zsas Member

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    This is a great thread! Sorry it happened to you! I hope you post updates and hopefully scans, as the potential to turn this into a teaching experience is huge!
     
  14. mono

    mono Subscriber

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    This is what I read and copied somewhere:

    Tri-X 400 in Rodinal 1+50, 20°C, agitate 5x at the beginning and then 5x all 5 minutes

    @12800: 51 minutes

    But I did not try it out so far!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2012
  15. emayoh

    emayoh Member

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    Here is an example of Arista Premium 400 (reputedly Tri-X) as shot indoors at Boston TD Garden
    1/125
    f/4.5

    This was developed in Adox Adonal (Original Rodinal formula) 1:100 stand for 70 minutes.

    I'm not sure what the lighting was at your concert. Probably not as much light but maybe comparable. I estimated I was going for something between 6400 and 12000 -- basically just trying to get anything at all.

    Image: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7447315/celts_125-0008.jpg

    Good luck!
     
  16. E. von Hoegh

    E. von Hoegh Member

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    That's pretty damn good!
     
  17. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    patrick

    get some sprint film developer, its good-stuff.
    use their push processing recommendations
    4 stops is +4, since yours is 5 stops, you might
    email and ask what they recommend, i would do +6 to get something on the film
    better too much, than not enough ... but that is just me ...
    and it is a great all around b/w film developer
    so you can use the remainder up on the rest of your film ...


    http://sprintsystems.com/?s=push+processing
     
  18. Roger Cole

    Roger Cole Member

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    In previous years some press photographer used HC110 replenisher to develop Tri-X to speeds around 5000-6400. The HC110 replenisher is no longer available but I've been meaning to try the LC110 from Freestyle (and then, if that works, try it on TMZ and Delta 3200 :D ) I have the info on that if you want it but you need faster.

    A while back I stumbled on this recipe for something called "Super Soup" :

    http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions and Times.html#Super_Soup

    I've been meaning to try this too, but it's clearly more complicated than just diluting some HC110 or LC110 replensiher and using it to develop. So just now I googled for that Super Soup recipe (I had the info saved as a text file but wanted to link to the original author) and found this on Digital Truth, involving developing in Diafine followed by Rodinal 1+100 stand, followed by Super Soup:

    http://www.digitaltruth.com/articles/pushing-tri-x.php

    This looks fascinating in a "try it and see what it does" kind of way. I seem to frequently find myself shooting black cats on coal piles at midnight (well, metaphorically) so I used to always be looking for more effective speed. Since the advent of TMZ and Delta 3200 that need is greatly diminished as I can go to 6400 with quite acceptable results with TMZ and to 3200 (to be fair, I've not tried 6400) with Delta 3200. But of course that does no good when you've already accidentally shot at that speed on Tri-X.

    Let us know what approach you settle on and how it works out. I'd love to hear about it, especially if you get decent results.
     
  19. jordanstarr

    jordanstarr Member

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    rodinol will give you crazy grain at that length of time....as long as you're cool with that.
     
  20. Roger Cole

    Roger Cole Member

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    I agree, it's very good! I have the Rodinal (unlike some of the stuff in the recipes I posted) and may have to try this for fun.
     
  21. Chris Lange

    Chris Lange Member

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    I accidentally shot a roll of Acros at 3200 once (hand-held in my Hasselblad at a party, probably using f/2.8 at 1/60th and 1/125 all night. It was quite dark, and I figured with that much underexposure on a slow film, I'd really have to punch the development. I used sprint print developer diluted 1+1, and developed for 18 minutes.

    I've printed from the negatives with some success.
     
  22. Gerald C Koch

    Gerald C Koch Member

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    Super soup, funny I didn't see any of the four neccesary other ingredients. At least it should have had the eye of newt or wool of bat! :smile:
     
  23. Roger Cole

    Roger Cole Member

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    Well he said he'd be willing to pick up other developers so it's another possibility. At this point eye of newt might be the best bet.