Overdeveloped or overexposed? Tri-x400/ D-76

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Joper08, Apr 1, 2012.

  1. Joper08

    Joper08 Member

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    Hello. Im quite new to developing myself and i cant get my head around this one!

    I developed three rolls of tri x 400 yesterday. They came out really really bright!

    Heres two examples (one from each roll, developed differently)
    img153.jpg img183.jpg

    Im 99% sure my cameras expose right. Ive shot these pictures with two different Olympus Om2.
    I did manage to "save" them by reducing light and contrast in the scanning process.

    Example:
    img164.jpg img189.jpg

    They look really bad and boring but i do get the details out? Isnt that a sign of overdeveloping. Shouldnt it be all burnt out if it was overexposed?

    Now to my real question!
    I developed two rolls in stock d76 solution for 6.45 seconds, stop for 1 min and 10 min of fix. I saw the big failure and did my next roll with 1:1 solution, exactly 21 celcius for 9 min (as the charts say). 1 min stop and again 10 min fix. Same bad result!!

    Ive heard about bleaching the negs back and i am thinking of doing it at a photo shop to save my pictures but i really wanna develop by myself but i dont get what i do wrong here?

    I use 1 bag of d76 (for one liter). Stir it in the right temperture in 800ml water, then the 200ml rest like it says. I use citrin stop diluted 1:19 as it says and Illford Rapid fixer diluted 1:4 as it says.

    Hope someone can help me here!
    Regards
    Johan (Sweden)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 1, 2012
  2. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

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    Hello Johan, and welcome to APUG.

    In order to answer your question, we need to know more about the negatives themselves, rather than any scans you may have of them.

    How do they look? Are the thicker parts of the negatives at least partially transparent? Can you see detail in the thinner (shadow) parts?

    I don't know if you have seen this site that deals with assessing negatives, but I find it helpful: http://www.ephotozine.com/article/assessing-negatives-4682

    One old-timer's trick was to try to read text through
     
  3. fotch

    fotch Member

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    Hello Johan and welcome to APUG.
     
  4. Joper08

    Joper08 Member

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    Thanks for the answers! I just found out my mistake tho.

    The company i ordered the developer from sent me paper developer instead of film! The bags look quite the same so i can understand their mistake. I have never used d76 developer so i didnt even think that it could be for paper (even tho it says "paper" in the right corner :whistling:) but i didnt take notice to it and assumed i had gotten the things i ordered!

    Feels good to know the mistake even tho my negs are ruined. I got really confused thought maby my thermometer had gone crazy.

    Regards
    Johan
     
  5. jp498

    jp498 Member

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    I bet the negatives are still scannable or printable.
     
  6. Existing Light

    Existing Light Member

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    if you've got multicontrast paper, might be able to save them by using a really low contrast filter in the enlarger. Just a suggestion, but if you're pulling detail out of the highlights in the scan, I think you could work a bit of darkroom magic on them and get pretty decent prints out of them after some trial and error
     
  7. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

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    You have pretty normal looking shadow detail, which means you didn't over-expose them.

    The negatives are over-developed, verified by the extremely high density in the highlights.

    Dektol isn't necessarily a bad film developer. You just have to watch it carefully so you don't over-develop. Try different shorter developing times, and I'm sure you will find a good compromise.
    It is grainier than D76 for sure, but with modern films that could be a benefit.

    - Thomas



     
  8. Old-N-Feeble

    Old-N-Feeble Subscriber

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    Just print them "high-key". :smile: