paint in camera film chambers

Discussion in 'Camera Building, Repairs & Modification' started by Murray@uptowngallery, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. Murray@uptowngallery

    Murray@uptowngallery Member

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    Has anyone ever experienced any deleterious effects on film (typ. rollfilm with lengthened 'dwell time' in-chamber) due to choice of black paint.

    I don't mean reflectance problems, but contamination from outgassing etc.

    Someone told me they read somewhere that alkyd enamels are not friendly to film for outgassing or vapor reasons. That is one of the paints I used (may have been a mistake to overcoat one paint with another).

    Strange brown fogging resulted, but no consistency was observed on images taken in quick sequence vs. long delay between images. There are good and bad images on the same roll. Some problems are at the edges and some are mid-image.

    It was also suggested a reel problem in development occurred and not a paint problem.

    Example: http://www.f295.org/Pinholeforum/forum/Blah.pl?b-CP/m-1176425849/

    Strange color for a light leak. Cameras body is black Gatorfoam with a layer of UltraFlat aerosol (Rustoleum?) then an unknown brand lusterless black alkyd enamel (preferably baked to dry - did not do this).

    Kodak E100VS

    Thanks


    Murray
     
  2. reellis67

    reellis67 Subscriber

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    I've only ever used flat black acrylic paint that I swiped from my wifes workroom, but so far I've not seen any problems with it.

    - Randy
     
  3. Greg_E

    Greg_E Member

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    Almost a year ago when we were talking about paints on the camera-fix Yahoo group, this same question came up. There never was a clearly defined answer. Some people have been using Rustoleum for years and never have problems. Others stay clear just in case a problem develops at some time in the future. Hopefully we can get a straight answer.
     
  4. Monophoto

    Monophoto Member

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    Murray -

    I don't think I would worry too much about outgassing from paint used inside a camera.

    First, outgassing mainly occurs during the time when the paint is "drying" - I put that word in quotes because the phenomenon is more involved that drying, but actually is also a curing process. That phenomenon is greatest when the paint is initially applied, and then declines over time. After some time (which varies between paints), all of the volatiles have dissipated and the phenomenon ends. In general, if the paint smells new, there is still some outgassing taking place, but when it stops smelling, it's about done.

    Second, the nature of the outgassing varies with type of paint. Certainly, the concern would be greater with solvent-based paints (that category probably includes the alkyds), and it would be greatly diminished with water-based paints (the latexes). So-called "milk paint" is probably the least offensive.

    Third, the degree of risk depends on the degree of exposure. That means that the longer the film remains exposed to the gas, the greater the potential risk. In most instances, the dwell time for film holders in a wooden camera is not more than a couple of minutes, and often only seconds.

    So I would not be concerned about outgassing from the black paint affecting film for normal use if the camera is more than a few months old. And using a water based paint would certainly minimize the risk.
     
  5. Murray@uptowngallery

    Murray@uptowngallery Member

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    Thanks, all. I guess the problem I have may be something else (bad processing?)

    OK, milkpaint was something I found under dead flat once. I wonder if it's at all like casein watercolor (the former is probably cheaper, anyway in cans vs tubes).

    This paint combo won't stop stinking. I think I made a bad choice of the alkyd over an unknown primer because it appeared to dissolve the white primer, turning grey and glossy. When it SEEMED dry I top coated again with the lusterless which dried on the surface but it has been several months and (last August?) still stinks.

    I'm afraid I have a layer of trapped solvent or similar.

    It's warm enough to use aerosol outside again. I'll go back to the UltraFlat for now. (That means I'll run out immediately).

    Say, has anyone ever tried the aerosol camouflage black or flat black stove/grill (1200 F) paint?

    Thanks

    Murray
     
  6. Greg_E

    Greg_E Member

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    The guys on the Yahoo group said that the Krylon ultraflat black (part of the camo series) is the flatest paint that they have found to buy. I haven't tried it yet. Several of them also suggested a milk paint, and they also said that to get a paint really flat, you have to mix in some kind of "crud" to make the surface rough. One person was using oregano leaves chopped, dried and mixed with the paint. There was something suggested, but I don't remember exactly what the compound was called.
     
  7. Greg_E

    Greg_E Member

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    Also the chalk board paint is better than regular flat black, but still a little "funny" so I can't really suggest it. A flat wrinkle finish might be good.
     
  8. Murray@uptowngallery

    Murray@uptowngallery Member

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    Oregano, huh? Like we don't have enough problems in public with unusual looking boxes...put some dried aromatic leaves on it too...more camouflage, :O)
     
  9. reellis67

    reellis67 Subscriber

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    But officer, it really IS oregano!!

    - Randy
     
  10. Greg_E

    Greg_E Member

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    I wonder if saw dust mixed with the paint would work.
     
  11. barryjyoung

    barryjyoung Member

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    I used the Krylon Camo on a firearm I painted and that stuff is like looking into the monolith orbiting Jupiter. It is absolutely flat. Have not tried it on a camera yet.

    Barry Young
    Young Camera Company