Paper again (Ptpd/Ziatype)

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by eggshell, Apr 14, 2005.

  1. eggshell

    eggshell Member

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    Quite question,

    Can someone recommend a paper smoother and slightly brighter than platinotype? Does it require pretreatment? Thanks!
     
  2. photomc

    photomc Member

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    Have you tried COT320? It is white and quite smooth....did I mention it is very white?
     
  3. david b

    david b Member

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    I just did my first palladium prints and used COT320 and they are very nice. I recommend this paper.
     
  4. Jorge

    Jorge Inactive

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    Platinotype is as white as it gets. Arches platine is very white but it does not seem smoother to me.

    Socorro is the smoothest paper I have used, but it is a creamy/yellowish paper.....
     
  5. eggshell

    eggshell Member

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    Thanks! I forgot to mention the platinotype I use is natural. I'm concerned if platinotype white may be too white. I bought one of William Blunt's beautiful prints and he said it was used on Cranes 90# Distaf White ( now known as Pearl White) paper. It is smooth and not too white. Unfortunate this paper is no good for pt/pd anymore. Thanks again.
     
  6. donbga

    donbga Member

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    If you are in an adventurous mood you may wish to try giving the paper a soak in Oxalic acid. I've used Pearl White in the past with Ziatypes but haven't tried the latest batches so there is no guarantee that the paper can be made to work with Oxalic acid.

    Cot320 is a good paper but I've always thought that Arches Platine is slightly smoother.

    Good luck,

    Don Bryant
     
  7. Jorge

    Jorge Inactive

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    Ah well, that is an important point, the platinotype bleached is very white....if you like the tone of the natural platinotype you might like the tone from socorro.
    Just one drawback, if you use socorro you have to give it a pre oxalic acid or simply an acid bath. I have gotten away from using oxalic acid and now use hydrochloric acid to acidify the paper.

    I have both paltinotype and socorro and socorro is much smoother than paltinotype.
     
  8. wm blunt

    wm blunt Member

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    eggshell,
    I am still trying to use the Pearl White Cranes (new) and it works if I mask the negative and coat paper with glass rod. It needs only a short rest before drying, just until it looks even and loses it's gloss. When I tried coating with a brush and leave the brush strokes they almost soaked thru the paper. Sure wish I hadn't bought a life time supply!
    Thanks for the kind comments.
    Wm Blunt
     
  9. eggshell

    eggshell Member

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    Is it smoother than platinotype? Don't scare me, but is it too white? Thanks!
     
  10. eggshell

    eggshell Member

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    I'll put this on my list in the meantime. Tough choice! Thanks.
     
  11. eggshell

    eggshell Member

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    Thanks for joining. Do you mean masking with Rubylith? ...Trying to imagine how masking can help. Do you think sizing helps?
     
  12. photomc

    photomc Member

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    I don't think it is smoother, as far as white goes..hmmmmm I would say it is pretty white, but if you search the threads here, Kerik mentioned toning paper down a bit by using dilute tea (plain tea from a tea bag or such and not TEA). Probably not a bad idea to purchase small lot of different papers to see what you like if possible. I have been doing that, 25 sheets at a time to get a feel for the paper that will work for me.

    Good luck
     
  13. wm blunt

    wm blunt Member

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    Yes, I use rubtlith or orange base line masking sheets. It does sound odd that masking would make a difference but it's probably that when I mask a negative I use a coating rod instead of a brush. Possibly I am letting the solution build up a bit too much outside the neg. area or letting it rest too long before drying. Haven't done a lot of testing with it yet but do know it is a lot more absorbent than the older paper. The one print I made with it when I masked the neg. and used the coating rod looks great, like the other paper.
     
  14. Michael Mutmansky

    Michael Mutmansky Member

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    William,

    If the paper is too absorbant, you may want to try sizing the paper with gelatin. That should make it much less of a problem.

    Of course, I don't think that sizing the paper is worth it unless the paper has a specific characteristic that you find worthwhile, because there are many pt/pd papers out there that don't need any sizing at alll and work wonderfully. So this procedure is only worth consideration when you have a copelling reason to use the paper (like a lifetime supply sitting in your darkroom!).


    ---Michael
     
  15. eggshell

    eggshell Member

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    Thanks to all for sharing your experiences. It's been very helpful. Really appreciate it!
     
  16. Jeremy

    Jeremy Member

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    I just saw that B&S has ~11x14 platinotype in 25sheet packs for $23. I just bought a box to try out.
     
  17. wm blunt

    wm blunt Member

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    Michael,
    I totally agree, I don't think I want to bother with sizing the paper as there are plenty of others. As I mentioned the paper works and makes a nice print if coated with a rod and dried rather quickly.
     
  18. photomc

    photomc Member

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    Sure you noticed this, but the actuall size of this is 11.5 x 14.5 - thought would mention it in case you are using 11x14 contact printer. If memory is correct though your is larger isn't it? This is nice paper...interested in how you like it.
     
  19. eggshell

    eggshell Member

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    Thanks again to everyone for the additional input. Good day!
     
  20. wm blunt

    wm blunt Member

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    After working with the Cranes 90# cover Pearl paper I have to "backtrack" on my previous statements about the paper. Although it is a bit softer than the older version the prints look exactly the same. I use tape to mask off the area to coat and use brush for coating. Working with about 50%RH I let the paper rest one minute before drying with heat. Great blacks and a good range of tones.