Paper developer

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by CCOS, Jul 24, 2008.

  1. CCOS

    CCOS Member

    Messages:
    45
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2008
    Location:
    Denmark
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Currentlig I'm using Ilford Multigrade dev. for my paper prints, but I'm looking for another dev. that can last longer when diluted( Ilford says 24 hours).
    I'm using Ilford Mulitgrade RC paper.
    Any of you out there have any suggesttion for a developer that can stand diluted for longer time?

    Jesper Jepsen
     
  2. AlanC

    AlanC Member

    Messages:
    336
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2004
    Location:
    North Yorksh
    Jesper,

    For many years I have used Agfa Neutol WA as my main developer, and have developed a lot of Ilford Mgd 4 in it. At the end of a short session I often bottle it and it still works well often weeks later.

    Alan Clark
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 24, 2008
  3. Bob F.

    Bob F. Member

    Messages:
    3,984
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2004
    Location:
    London
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    The 24 hours is only a suggestion. Bottling it between sessions will probably extend that considerably. In my Nova slots it lasted for several weeks, as has Ilford PQ Universal.

    If you can get it (probably have to import it from the US) Ansco 130 is probably the longest lasting developer but Neutol WA, as suggested above, probably comes a close second - both of those have lasted a couple of months in my Nova's slots. Because of the difficulty of getting the Ansco 130 (or in my case, the glycin to make it up myself), I too have more or less standardised on Neutol WA.

    Have fun, Bob.

    P.S. Alan: for future reference, you can edit your original post for a few hours after you post it... (like this...) :smile:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 24, 2008
  4. Mike Wilde

    Mike Wilde Member

    Messages:
    2,933
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2006
    Location:
    Misissauaga
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Dektol?

    I use dektol, or agfa 100 mixed from scratch - almost identical to dektol in its ratios. I dilute it 1:2 for use in trays. I bottle it between sessions, and if the bottle is full, I have had sucess using a few shets, bottle it, then use it again for another session a wekk or two later with no really awful results.
     
  5. AlanC

    AlanC Member

    Messages:
    336
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2004
    Location:
    North Yorksh
    Jesper,
    Mgd4 has a slight hint of warmth, as I am sure you know. Neutol WA will preserve this. Dektol will give you a slightly cold blue-black look.
    You can decide which you like best!

    Alan Clark
     
  6. Shawn Dougherty

    Shawn Dougherty Member

    Messages:
    4,184
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2004
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Ansco 130, diluted 1+1 lasts a LONG time in trays and for months if you bottle between use.... I buy the PF130 mentioned above, from Photographer's Formulary. It's an excellent developer.
     
  7. reellis67

    reellis67 Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,887
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2005
    Location:
    Central Flor
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    My current bottle of Ansco 130 is 18 months old and going strong, although I did just pick up a fresh kit to make some new. This stuff really does last a long, long time.

    - Randy
     
  8. brass majestic

    brass majestic Member

    Messages:
    42
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2007
    Location:
    Detroit, MI
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Jesper,
    I think I've read this before on one of the posts and from my own experience - LPD lasts a while in the tray.
    Even diluted 1:3/1:4 with another tray floating on top ( some float plastic wrap), the stuff will still be good 3-5 days later.
    Russ
     
  9. Paul Verizzo

    Paul Verizzo Member

    Messages:
    1,261
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2008
    Location:
    Sarasota, FL
    Shooter:
    35mm
    And the winner is.....

    I have been intentionally abusing ID-62 plus extra sulfite for a month now. I've left it out in the trays for several days many times, just adding water to make up for evaporation. I'm just running tests, so this isn't what I would do for "real" work. Oh, and the daytime temp in the garage/darkroom is mid-90's. It's gotten fairly brown but still is cranking to full Dmax.

    ID-62 is a basic PQ formula. I think with 100 grams of sulfite I'm doing an Ethol LPD, basically.

    Many people say that the warm tone ID-78 is a dead ringer for Neutol WA, btw.
     
  10. srs5694

    srs5694 Member

    Messages:
    2,725
    Joined:
    May 18, 2005
    Location:
    Woonsocket,
    Shooter:
    35mm
    I use the mix-it-yourself DS-14 developer, which I bottle and replenish between sessions. (The Web page says how to make the replenisher -- it's just DS-14 minus potassium bromide.) Used in this way, with perhaps an average of one printing session per week, DS-14 lasts for at least a few months. I've successfully replenished one liter of DS-14 with three liters of replenisher before I got nervous and dumped it. I don't recall how long that took, but it was probably at least six months.

    The commercial Silvergrain Tektol line is based on DS-14, but I don't recall whether the Standard or Black variety is closer to DS-14. Unfortunately, there's no commercial version of the replenisher. I have no idea if anybody imports these products into Europe.
     
  11. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

    Messages:
    18,091
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Location:
    West Midland
    Shooter:
    Multi Format

    Well almost


    Unfortunately ID-78 was published incorrectlyn in a Photolab Index back in the early 60's and that mistake goes right on through most US publications and websites such as Silvergrain. Ironically it's correct onDigitaltruth. The formula as published widely by Ilford should have 4.5 gms per litre KBR (not 0.4g).

    Ian
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 24, 2008
  12. Paul Verizzo

    Paul Verizzo Member

    Messages:
    1,261
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2008
    Location:
    Sarasota, FL
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Yes, I discovered that on my own research

    That's a good caution, although I never gave the formula.

    So with the correct bromide, it is a warm tone developer. Allegedly like the WA. (I've not used either.)
     
  13. Martin Aislabie

    Martin Aislabie Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,416
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2007
    Location:
    Stratford-up
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Guys, how long do you hang onto print dev?

    I process most of my prints in open trays and frisbee the stuff at the end of each day.

    I use either Agfa WA or Ilford PQ - both of which are dark yellow/brown at the end of 12hrs or so in the tray

    There is no noticeable drop in performance (I can detect) but they look pretty spent by the end of a session

    Both leave a dark grey/black deposit on the tray which only partly gets removed with elbow grease.

    Thanks

    Martin
     
  14. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

    Messages:
    18,091
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Location:
    West Midland
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    If you process Fibre based papers the developer doesn't last that long, mainly because of the absorption and carry over. So 1½ litres of ID-78 or Neutol WA generally lasts a 3 or 4 hour session and I may have to top it up with fresh. It would certainly last 12 hours or more if used less.

    Ian
     
  15. Slixtiesix

    Slixtiesix Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,117
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2006
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    I use Calbe N113 which is an powder-developer. In original package it can be stored for years, even
    the lifetime of the solution is outstanding. The price is also surprisingly cheap, 1,50 Euro per litre
    won´t make you poor. Give it a try, I think availability in Denmark won´t be a problem.
     
  16. CCOS

    CCOS Member

    Messages:
    45
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2008
    Location:
    Denmark
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Slixtiesix availability in Denmark well.. normally I buy from Germany because most dealers in Denmark don't have kemistry anymore and to expensive if they are going to order it for you.

    The "problem" is that I use 40ml for test print and 100ml for larger op to 30x40cm so mixing 1 Liter is much if it doesn't last long.. ( using Jobo drums)

    Jesper
     
  17. Slixtiesix

    Slixtiesix Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,117
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2006
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Ok that´s an issue. I develop my prints in trays and store the solution in plastic bottles while not used.
    It keeps well even for 6 month. I forgot to mention that N113 is used as stock solution!

    Benjamin