Pix of your home-built cams, mods and creations here please (part 2)

Discussion in 'Camera Building, Repairs & Modification' started by Sean, Apr 24, 2012.

  1. EdSawyer

    EdSawyer Member

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    I fitted a rangefinder from a Polaroid BigShot onto a Cambo Maxiportrait. It works great, perfect for hand-held head-and-shoulders portraits. Credit goes to Misko for the idea! I have another Maxiportrait and Bigshot that I will combine similarly soon.

    IMG_0440.JPG IMG_0441.jpg IMG_0443.jpg IMG_0442.jpg
     
  2. Milos Gazdic

    Milos Gazdic Member

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    Hey Ed!
    How you've been?
    I've just yesterday tested my Cambo Maxiportrait with it's "string" focus :smile: and realized it works!!

    I've also ordered the Lomo rangefinder to attach to the camera for faster focusing.

    As I see you did what we discussed before on Large Format Forum (thanks for the credit, so sweet!). Can you tell me if the "framing lines" are correct when Big Shot's RF is used? Our idea is so much nicer than my route, since View Finder & Range Finder are combined together, but I don't have an extra Big Shot on hand & ordering one from US for me comes way too expensive to justify cutting it's RF for this purpose. Wish I was living in US just for all those dream cameras!

    Is focus good enough for wide open shooting?
     
  3. Martin b

    Martin b Member

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    Hi all,

    So I had a go at putting a large format lens on the Holga 120 Pan body. I was following the 'Making a HolgAgon' pdf guide that I downloaded ages ago, I've lost the original source but there's a copy on my blog post about the mod.

    It was all pretty smooth sailing apart from focusing. I used a Graflex Optar instead of the Schneider Kreuznach 90mm mentioned in the pdf. I don't know if the flange distance is different between the two lens but what I think is that with the 12-17mm focusing helicoid and the lens cap/adapter that the lens would sit 2-3mm too far forward so it focus's too close at 12mm.

    I tried with a 7mm macro ring instead of the helicoid and the lens then sits too close the film plane, so I reckon I'll go with the helicoid but try and move the M42 mount back a couple of mm, I'm just afraid the front of the camera is going to get messed up.

    There's a few more pictures of the build here, along with several photos taken with the macro ring and helicoid at different f-stops showing the forward and back focusing problem.

    http://martin-blunden.com/blog/2016/2/17/making-a-holgaflex

    Cheers
    Martin

    Finished camera for now, until I have to chop into the front to try and move the mount backwards.
    holgaFlex-1-2.jpg
    Focusing Helicoid at 12mm, f22
    04_holgaflex_12mm_f22.jpg
     
  4. ced

    ced Member

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    Here is a nice video (2 parts) of a chap building a wetplate camera, has a very well equiped workshop, I hope you guys may find useful & or interesting.
     
  5. blindpig

    blindpig Member

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    Just finished building and testing a 4X5 sliding box camera with front and back tilts.It utilizes the lens board and lens from my Crown Graphic and is somewhat smaller and lighter than the Graphic(one of the reasons it was built,LOL!) Here are some pics:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  6. blindpig

    blindpig Member

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    Sorry second image was supposed to be the other side,not 2 pics of the same side.Having some issues with photobucket.
     
  7. blindpig

    blindpig Member

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    Last try...
    [​IMG]
     
  8. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Hey guys,

    Here's a video I made of a very cheap 14x17 camera, total cost for the camera body was $100 and the holder was a "real" holder so that was a little more, however one could be made cheap for another $50-$100 by hand. I chose this size because there is a single sided x-ray film that's only $2/sheet (Ektascan) which is half the price of 8x10 at around $4/sheet.

    Check out my video on it.

    It's a little rough around the edges, I've been making videos on various film and LF and ULF, and each video gets a little better, so feel free to subscribe to my channel to see more updates when they come out too, and check out my other videos if you want.

    Anyway enjoy the video.

     
  9. spacecadet

    spacecadet Member

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    Hi all, my first post- It's cool to see this thread, got me excited.

    Here is a little custom 645 I've been working on using some old parts from a Mamiya I once owned.

    I do CAD/CAM at a CNC shop and have after hours access to a HAAS mill. The first roll I shot is in processing right now, I'll update some photographs once I get the scans.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Also- I've made a few camera grips and this little bellows lens for my Sony A7.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. poppaneedsanap

    poppaneedsanap Member

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    That CNC Cam is glorious!!!!¡¡¡!!! wow..
     
  11. spacecadet

    spacecadet Member

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    Thanks!
    As promised here are some first shots... A couple modifications need to be made. Even with felt in places the interior still has some reflection going on. I missed every focus, so Im making a ground glass back for it to swap on and off to check focus.

    [​IMG]

    I also started designing a new body.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Michael Guzzi

    Michael Guzzi Member

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    As someone who works in a tool and die shop, this is so cool to see! Makes me wanna design a RF 35mm with exchangeable film backs...not that this hasn't been done before, just that it was never made the way I envision it...

    What did you use for the parts? seems aluminum? Did you machine all that from solid stock? Around these parts all that aluminum stock and machining hours would cost me more than I paid for most of the gear I own... Wish the Boss would let me fiddle with the equipment after work, especially the wire EDM, it can make some really neat stuff...

    For those reflections: Do you have access to a bead/sand blaster? that could help, just blast away in all the internal areas that are not critical (mating surfaces etc). Maybe spray it matte black too. I would design avoiding the need to add light seals, making the body itself light tight upon assembly.

    Good luck, this is great stuff!

    PS how good is that CAM? Around here the preferred tool is machining strategist. Can't do real 5 axis but that has not been a prob so far.
     
  13. spacecadet

    spacecadet Member

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    Yes, Aluminum 6061 Bar Stock.

    It is designed to be light tight, but I believe when the lens opens the reflective interior causing some ray scattering. Next steps are to both beed blast and matte black paint the interior features.

    Im a stake holder in the shop- we machine so much aluminum it's dirt cheap. We also allow all employees to learn CAD/CAM/Machining as we believe they should have access to these tools if they so wish. Company philosophy.
     
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  15. seanECfreeman

    seanECfreeman Member

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    Just ''finished'' this morning, This is a kind of concept camera of mine, I'm experimenting with a side in, slide out, type loading mechanism, instead of the door one, Not right yet, but I hope to learn from this camera, and build a new improved one from Irish yew in the future.:D

    _DSC5453.jpg _DSC5456.jpg _DSC5454.jpg
     
  16. Dan Fromm

    Dan Fromm Member

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    [QUOTE="spacecadet, post: 1798232, member: 79563"It is designed to be light tight, but I believe when the lens opens the reflective interior causing some ray scattering. Next steps are to both beed blast and matte black paint the interior features./QUOTE]

    Some? Some? A lot.

    Bead blasting and painting matte black will sort of work. Flocking paper as sold by http://www.edmundoptics.com/ works better. I find the self-adhesive flavor harder to apply than the plain.

    If you must use matte black paint, SKGrimes recommends Krylon's Ultra Flat Black highly. They use it, too.
     
  17. dirkfletcher

    dirkfletcher Subscriber

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  18. grahamp

    grahamp Subscriber

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    I finally had some time to build my 8x10 box pinhole camera. No CNC aluminium for this one - it started life as a couple of wooden paper file boxes. These are from the first light tightness test - unfiltered RC paper, 5 minutes with a 0.3mm pinhole at about 175mm 'focal' length.

    IMG_0836.JPG


    IMG_0838.JPG

    IMG_0843.JPG

    As the ground glass hints, this camera will also have an alta ego involving a short bellows, some rear tilt and swing, and a 270mm G-Claron...
     
  19. grahamp

    grahamp Subscriber

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    And here's the test inverted to positive and flipped horizontally). No major light leaks at least.
    8x10pinholetest1.jpg
     
  20. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    I really like the idea of that Graflex conversion, I intend to make something similar but in 5x4 as I have all the spare parts needed. I'll be using a Super Graphic front standard as that allows reasonable movements and I've adapted it to fit the rails/bed which were from a Quarter plate Speed Graphic.

    However a smaller one like yours would be very useful when traveling so you've got me thinking. I have another spare set of rails/bed and a 5x4 Pacemaker front standard, plus a spare Busch Pressman GG focus frame and two Graflex RH10 roll film backs. This would mean I could make 6x7/6x9 camera with some movements and still use the lenses from my 5x4 Speed.Crown and Super Graphics.

    Ian
     
  21. Dan Fromm

    Dan Fromm Member

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    Ian, I don't see the point of mutilating a Century Graphic as was shown in post 116 above. It gives up most of what the camera can do for a minor reduction in weight and the ability to use full rise with lenses that would make infinity "inside the box" on an unmutilated Century. If the user is going to shoot 2x3, well, the shortest lens that covers 2x3 will focus to infinity on an unmutilated Century. 35/4.5 Apo Grandagon. If full rise is needed, well, the top of the box can be cut back.
     
  22. dirkfletcher

    dirkfletcher Subscriber

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    Hey Ian and Dan,
    Thanks for checking out my camera. We were using it set up with either the 35mm Rodenstock and a roll film back or the 28mm Schneider with a PhaseOne back and wanted something that was small and could be quickly pulled out, shot and and stuffed back in a camera bag as we were using it addition to digital and 4x5 cameras. Being able to quickly focus 'inside the box' when shooting handheld is tricky and time consuming. Cutting it down made it crazy quick to shoot with and in all honesty, a heck of a lot cheaper then an Alpa which we just couldn't afford.
     
  23. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    In my case Dan I have a box of parts for Speed Grapics I bought from Miguel Coquis, in Paris, 3 or 4 years ago, I guess he was taking the cases and shutters for use with Brass lenses.

    I think you've seen images of my 5x4 Speed Grapgic WA special, where part of the top is cuta away to allow rise with a short WA and it's also adapted to use the rangefinder with it as well. A few years agomI saw an MPP MicroTechnical which had be factory modified in a simiular way. But this was once common with similar UK made cameras like the Houghton Sanderson cameras, and a few others.

    So my plan with my new WA 5x4 camera is either a cut away box or something like DirkFletcher has made.

    First though, if I can make it in time it'll be a 6x7/6x9 camera similar to Dirks, I could do with it to take to Canada in two weeks. The base is made, next the back which will rotate, if I run out of time I'll take one of my Mamiya 645s. I've just restored a Pacemaker Speed Graphic (for another APUG member) and fitted new bellows, I can use the old ones on a temporary basis until I make new.

    Here's the base for the track etc, I decided the guides would look be better plain brass.

    [​IMG]

    It's covered in wood sealer at the moment, then when the rest of the body is made it'll be french polished probably after I return to the UK mid September. Next I'll make the back.

    Because I rarely use rise but use front tilt a lot I'll offset the back slightly higher to compensate.

    Ian
     
  24. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Dirk, you've really inspired me, or more honestly given me motivation.

    My new build 6x7 camera is now well over 50% made More like 75%), now, the back takes RH10 roll film holders and is rotatable, something lacking on Graflex cameras until the Super Graphic. I've built the back so the Pacemaker standard gives rise ansd fall which means it'll work well with front tilt the main movement I use a lot.

    Tomorrow I'll attatch the back to the bed and make the side bracings. as a temporary measure I'll be using bellows I've just removed & replaced on a Speed Graphic for anothef Forum member.

    Photos to follow.

    Ian
     
  25. dirkfletcher

    dirkfletcher Subscriber

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    I can't wait to see it!
     
  26. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Hopefully tomorrow :D at least part assempled, the weekend at the latest. I'm building on the fly, all in my head no plans or drawings but it's working. It helps I was once a sculptor.

    Ian