Print drying rack

Discussion in 'Darkroom Equipment' started by Trond, Aug 3, 2010.

  1. Trond

    Trond Subscriber

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    I have just built a print drying rack for my new darkroom. The idea comes from the excellent book "Build you own home darkroom".

    The rack is on wheels so that I easily can move it in and out of the darkroom, and has been designed to accept 10 50 x 60 cm prints. It's just 1 cm narrower than the door into the darkroom.

    Now it needs a couple of coats of varnish, and I have to make the screens.

    tørkestativ.jpg
     
  2. fotch

    fotch Member

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    Nice job, although I can see your not a woodworker:D
     
  3. fschifano

    fschifano Member

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    Never mind that. I like it! Nicely done. Maybe a coat or two of polyurethane finish just to protect the wood?
     
  4. JJB

    JJB Member

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    Do you have a plan for the individual shelves? Are they going to be a wood frame with some screen material?
     
  5. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Looks very similar to something I picked up at Home Depot. I used standard window screen frames (cut to the correct size) for the racks.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. jimrohrer

    jimrohrer Subscriber

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    Looks great... I like the mobility the casters give you. Nice touch.
     
  7. Trond

    Trond Subscriber

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    That's my plan. Two or three coats of polyurethane varnish.
     
  8. Trond

    Trond Subscriber

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    I think I will make wood frames. I'm a little unsure about the screen material, but fibreglass seems to be what's usually recommended.
     
  9. RH Designs

    RH Designs Advertiser Advertiser

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    I used a plastic mesh netting from a local garden centre - designed to keep birds off your plants. Works a treat, and very cheap!
     
  10. fschifano

    fschifano Member

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    I'd probably go with the fiberglass window screening material, but the plastic mesh netting would be just as good. The key here is to avoid metal screens as these will oxidize and can leave stains. I know the fiberglass ones will not, 'cause that's what I use. Fiberglass screening is a bit more dimensionally stable than the plastic garden mesh I've seen around here. It sags a bit when it gets warm. Fiberglass doesn't.
     
  11. Trond

    Trond Subscriber

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    I'll check out the plastic mesh netting if I don't find any suitable fiberglass. Window screens aren't very common here in Norway, but it's possible that the same product is used for other things as well. I will look around.
     
  12. Timothy

    Timothy Member

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    Trond,

    Very nice work. My own $00.02 worth of advice is to avoid using any urethane product. You will be surprised how quickly ordinary water will dissolve a plastic finish. A much better solution is traditional Tongue oil. I have used it on several bits of gear that are in my sink with water flowing over them at times, and the wood is good as new still.
     
  13. George Collier

    George Collier Member

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    All my darkroom surfaces are finished with several coats of marine spar varnish (first coat cut in half with thinner to help penetration). At 20+ years old, they still look like they did when new, except developer will stain if left to dry, but the surface is still good.
    I second the fiberglass screens. I had some like this years ago (I hang my prints now), wooden frames. I just stacked them, but this will allow more air circulation. (I didn't finish the frames, never a problem.) You need to be able to clean the fiberglass with a weak clorox solution from time to time to eliminate contamination.
     
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  15. fschifano

    fschifano Member

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    Are you serious? The counter tops in my darkroom are high density particle board finished with two coats of standard, run of the mill, glossy urethane finish. The same thing used for finishing wood floors. This stuff is tough. Everything gets spilled on it and in the 10 years that I've had this set up, nothing has damaged it. It doesn't look like the OP is going to be running water over this thing anyway, not that it would matter.
     
  16. Jeff Bannow

    Jeff Bannow Member

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    Nice. I am going to building the same thing next week, from the same book! Hope mine comes out as well as yours did ...
     
  17. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Building something is always good.
    However, this is a better picture of something simiilar to what I found. It is called a "Pan Rack" I put window screens in it.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. fotch

    fotch Member

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    It takes 5 or 6 coats of Tung Oil before it has any moisture resistance. Each coat take a long time to dry. Its protection is via penetration. There is a reason they use varnish on boats. I would use an epoxy finish, seals at the surface and last nearly forever. I have had a sink that I epoxied 30 years ago that still look about the same as the day I did it. Gave it away last year, still going strong in a new darkroom. Just my 2 cents
     
  19. fotch

    fotch Member

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    Where did you find that? Looks like a bakery item.
     
  20. Trond

    Trond Subscriber

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    This seem perfect for the job. Easier to keep clean and it has a nice industrial look ;-).

    Trond
     
  21. Ronald Moravec

    Ronald Moravec Member

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    Buy fiberglass screening.

    Test out the drying technique before commiting tons of time to screen construction.
     
  22. Martin Aislabie

    Martin Aislabie Subscriber

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  23. Trond

    Trond Subscriber

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    Thank you! That was very helpful. I have just ordered the fiberglass screening material that I need from Silverprint.

    Trond
     
  24. Martin Aislabie

    Martin Aislabie Subscriber

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    No problem

    Do you have any photos of the new Darkroom ? :smile:

    Martin
     
  25. Trond

    Trond Subscriber

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    Well, this is from today. The drywalls are up, and I am currently joining the boards with tape and joint compound. I'm new to this, so it won't be pretty!

    Trond
     

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  26. GeorgesGiralt

    GeorgesGiralt Member

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    Hello !
    I've made a print drying rack under my sink.
    For the shelves, I was lazy. One day I followed my wife in an arts store. I saw canvas frames without the canvas sold very cheap. So I decided to use them.
    I stapled the fiberglass mesh on the lower face using stainless steel staples "et voila" !