print mounting

Discussion in 'Presentation & Marketing' started by baronfoxx, Sep 7, 2002.

  1. baronfoxx

    baronfoxx Member

    Messages:
    97
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2002
    Do members still use hot press dry mounting methods, or is spray adhesives more widely used instead.
     
  2. Sean

    Sean Admin Staff Member Admin

    Messages:
    9,297
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2002
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    When I was in college we used heat presses. Nice flat prints on board always appealed to me. The last time I tried spray adhesive it was a disaster. Not long after using it my prints were curling at the edges. Maybe I was just using a poor quality adhesive. I'd like to know if people are having good success with spray on as well. I'm also wondering if there are any archival issues with using spray or dry mount tissue with a heat press...
     
  3. Robert Kennedy

    Robert Kennedy Member

    Messages:
    750
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2002
    Location:
    Just north o
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Spray for me. But mostly because I don't have room (o.k. my fiancee doesn't have the patience for....) a big old press. Spray seems to work just as well for me.
     
  4. EUGENE

    EUGENE Member

    Messages:
    38
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2002
    Baronfoxx, there have been several articles written in various publications ( can't remember the exact ones) that warn against using spray mounting adhesives on fiberbase papers. It seems that these adhesives are O.K. for short term display of RC papers, but they are not suitable for long term archival mounting, especially with FB papers. For many years, I dry mounted my FB prints (in a heated press). A few years ago, I read an article written by a person that I trust and respect. He explained that there was evidence that applying heat to toned FB prints caused changes in the tonal coloration. That was all I needed to hear. I frequently use warm tone papers and Selenium toner. I sold my dry mount press (it was very old, heavy to move around, and ugly to look at). I now use acid-free double-backed tape, from Light Impressions, to hold my prints onto the mounting board. Then mat and frame them. Just a small square of tape at each corned does the trick. I can easily remove the print from the board, if need be, and I avoid heating my prints in a press.
     
  5. avandesande

    avandesande Member

    Messages:
    1,246
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2002
    Location:
    Tijeras, NM
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    I use single weight paper and a hand iron to dry mount. It works great and the iron set me back 2.00 at a thrift store. I actually prefer single weight paper because it dry mounts much better than double weight. It is also easier to handle when it's wet because it is so soft that it won't scratch your other prints.
     
  6. Doremus Scudder

    Doremus Scudder Member

    Messages:
    1,275
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2002
    Location:
    Oregon and Austria
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    There was an article in View Camera magazine some time ago which reviewed the new ArtCare mounting board. In the course of their tests, they compared the permanance of prints both hinged and dry-mounted. The dry-mounted prints showed substantially less degradation due to aging and chemical contamintation. I feel that, as far as permanance is concerned, dry-mounting is the way to go, especially for art photos where the presentation, placement on the mat board and overmatting is an integral part of the artwork.

    I use the Seal "BufferMount" (formerly "ArchivalMount&quot:wink: low-temperature mounting tissue. It is also removable by heat. I routinely mount prints that have been selenium toned, many to completeion, and have never noticed a change in image color, or damage of any kind.

    Regards, ;^D)
     
  7. Jorge

    Jorge Inactive

    Messages:
    4,532
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2002
    Shooter:
    Large Format
    The article that Doremus is refering to was written by Michael A Smith and you can read it in his site www.michaelandpaula.com. (copy and paste until the hot keys work). The Artcraft boards seem to be a great choice for archival presentation.
     
  8. bronicadave

    bronicadave Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2002
    Has anyone used Rolltaq adhesive? Can anyone comment on the ease of use and quality of mounting fiber base prints with this system?
     
  9. Sean

    Sean Admin Staff Member Admin

    Messages:
    9,297
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2002
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
  10. photomc

    photomc Member

    Messages:
    3,575
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2003
    Location:
    Texas
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Sean, I found that most of the time I want to go with white unless the image is printed on warmtone paper or has been sepia or brown toned - then I use the ivory, which is just not as white. Besides, I really like the look of a b&w print on a real white mat. Just gives it a very professional look.
     
  11. Dorothy Blum Cooper

    Dorothy Blum Cooper Member

    Messages:
    324
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2003
    Location:
    North Caroli
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Not sure if this method will appeal to you, but I thought I'd pass this on anyway. It's an article my husband wrote for another forum. Make sure if you choose to read this, that you have the current version of Adobe Reader as the article is in pdf. format.

    http://www.ilp.tlcwe.com/foamCoreMount.pdf
     
  12. lee

    lee Member

    Messages:
    2,913
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2002
    Location:
    Fort Worth T
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    this link locks up my computer for some reason. And yes, I hve the current ver of Adobe Reader.

    lee\c
     
  13. gareth harper

    gareth harper Inactive

    Messages:
    386
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2003
    Location:
    Ayrshire Sco
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Worked fine with my pc and adobe reader 6.
    Does anybody know of an online article with step by step instructions on using a dry press mount for RC and Fiber papers?
     
  14. doughowk

    doughowk Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,765
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2003
    Location:
    Jacksonville
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
  15. blansky

    blansky Subscriber

    Messages:
    5,985
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Location:
    Wine country, N. Cal.
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    I also drymount and use the Seal Buffermount. I have also read a number of threads here and photonet about this subject. Some pro drymount some con.

    If you are making larger prints, 16x20 and up, simply taping the corners does not make a great presentation. The middle of the print often bags and warps out and doesn't look too professional. Perhaps with small prints it is fine.

    As for the archival part. I have not seen prints drymounted for 50 years or so to make an educated guess. I drymounted color for 20 years or so but they all faded to some degree, because that's just the beauty of color, (thanks Kodak).

    As for black and white, I selenium tone, drymount with archival materials and hope for the best.

    Michael McBlane
     
  16. ann

    ann Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,919
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2002
    Shooter:
    35mm
    I have some prints that I dry mounted over 30 years ago. Still holding up fine.
     
  17. gareth harper

    gareth harper Inactive

    Messages:
    386
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2003
    Location:
    Ayrshire Sco
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Thanks for the links doughowk
    Time to read carefully.
     
  18. Deckled Edge

    Deckled Edge Member

    Messages:
    446
    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2004
    Location:
    Manhattan Be
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format