Pushing Neopan Acros 100

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by mesh, Nov 2, 2011.

  1. mesh

    mesh Subscriber

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    Just wondering if many have tried pushing Acros 35mm? I really love it rated as 100, but sometimes require an extra stop. I know I should just try it (and I will) but any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. I usually develop in XTOL 1:1... I was thinking of pushing one stop and then developing for 11 min with slightly less agitation. What do you think? Thanks very much.
     
  2. Bob-D659

    Bob-D659 Member

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  3. powermonkey

    powermonkey Member

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    I was recently considering this as well. A quick google search shows that people have pushed it to 400 with great success, so I might try it myself and post the results if I can remember to in the next few days.
     
  4. tranquibra

    tranquibra Member

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    Here is my test data for Acros using Michael Madio's PCM formula (ascorbate-developers.blogspot.com/2011/03/recipes.html):

    eveloper: PCM (one-shot)
    Temperature: water batch (20-21 Celsius)
    Development: full stand (initial 60 secs inversion)

    full box speed - about 12 mins;
    1 stop push - about 20-21 mins;
    2 stop push - about 30-32 mins;

    By examining via grain focuser only, grainess is comparable to the results from 510-pyro. Two stop push is probably the practical limit; one stop push is quite decent unless it is an extremely contrasty scene. Sorry I don't have scanner, so I can not upload any sample image.
     
  5. K-G

    K-G Subscriber

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  6. mesh

    mesh Subscriber

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    Thanks for the info everyone - appreciated.
     
  7. michael_r

    michael_r Subscriber

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    I'm kind of surprised people would find Acros a good film to push (ie underexpose, overdevelop). Acros has a rather unique highlight gradation compared to TMX and Delta 100. Highlight contrast is inherently very high. In fact its characteristic curve is steepest in the range from around zones IX-XII (in zone system parlance). Overdeveloping (ie pushing) would exaggerate this characteristic, making the highlights very dense (although they'd still separate quite well if they are not too high on the curve and overdevelopment is not excessive). Acros is also a slightly "slower" 100 speed film than TMX and Delta 100 to begin with, in terms of shadow contrast. Bottom line is by pushing you're losing shadow detail/contrast and making highlights more dense.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 2, 2011
  8. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

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    All numbers aside, I routinely shoot Acros at EI 400 and push process in Xtol 1+1 with good results. With very little loss of shadow detail I find that the resulting negatives print very well in my diffusion enlarger. I agitate every 3 minutes to keep the highlights under control while the shadows are allowed to develop more.

    I have no idea what the characteristic curve looks like after that, but the prints are good, and that's all I care about.

    - Thomas
     
  9. michael_r

    michael_r Subscriber

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    It really depends on the look each individual is after.
     
  10. Dave in Kansas

    Dave in Kansas Member

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    Thomas,

    Have you tried it with your famous replenished Xtol?

    Dave
     
  11. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

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    Hi Dave,

    I have not. Replenished Xtol doesn't lend itself to push processing very well, as you lose about half a stop of speed compared to stock fresh Xtol.

    I recommend using Xtol 1+1 for that. Do your testing.

    The attached picture was printed with such a negative. There is a little bit of shadow detail lost, but so what? Shadow detail everywhere is overrated... :smile:

    - Thomas
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Dave in Kansas

    Dave in Kansas Member

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    That's a nice picture. I'd feel real good if I turned out images like that.

    Practice, practice, practice I suppose.

    Dave