Pushing Tri-X 400

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Silverpixels5, Jul 28, 2005.

  1. Silverpixels5

    Silverpixels5 Member

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    I have a roll of tri-x 400 in 35mm that I would like to push one, two, or possibly 3 stops. The problem is that I need suggestions on what to develop it in w/o 1) having to buy anything, and 2) it coming out looking like crap. I've gone through the forums and most people seem to say diafine or xtol...neither of which i have. My current chemistry inventory is fx39, rodinal, gamma plus, and a multitude of bulk chemicals. Thanks for any suggestions!
     
  2. kaiyen

    kaiyen Member

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    You can get out to 1600 in Rodinal with results that are similar to Microphen, a developer much more well known for its ability to push. I'm willing to bet you could get to 3200, too, but I haven't scanned those yet to see how my test went. These won't look awesome, but they'll be printable.

    EI 800 Rodinal 1+50 20:00 60s initial + 10s every 3 minutes
    EI 1600, Rodinal 1+50 22:00 60s initial, 10s every 3 minutes

    You'll notice that there isn't much difference between the two. I discovered that the reduced agitation controlled the highlights pretty well in both cases. The difference, therefore, was shadow detail. 800 still looked quite good. 1600 is clearly pushed.

    My times are for my scanner, so that's kind of like a condenser enlarger.

    allan
     
  3. Bob Carnie

    Bob Carnie Subscriber

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    I would recommed push 2 stop with Microphen, we do this combo all the time with good results
     
  4. Tom Hoskinson

    Tom Hoskinson Member

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    Since you have bulk chemicals, I suggest you take a look in the APUG Chemistry Recipes section. Look for the RAF Metol-Pyro Recipe and the ASA 3200 results for Tri-X:

    http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=143
     
  5. df cardwell

    df cardwell Subscriber

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    Why do you need to 'push' ?

    Are the shadows underexposed, the midtones, what ? If you can describe the scene, the problem, and what you want, the answer will take care of itself.

    Reason being, you will alter part of the curve and sacrifice the rest.

    FX-39 can increase the lower midtones and shadows a bit, the midtones a lot, and the highlights not much. It would be my first choice for simple underexposure. You would extend the time and reduce the agitation. The same method would work with Rodinal, but Rodinal has about a stop less natural shadow speed. Microphen will build density in the highlights, and make for a starchy look.

    Whatever you choose, shoot a test roll, trying hard to replicate the scene, and develop strips to fine tune the image.
     
  6. Silverpixels5

    Silverpixels5 Member

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    The scene is pretty much 'low light, hand-held' situations. Mainly people. Grain isn't too much of a concern, although less is better. I'm more concerned with sharpness and tone. These are just personal snapshots, that will probably never be printed larger than 4x6 or 5x7.
     
  7. kaiyen

    kaiyen Member

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    I think grain is going to be about the same with TXT out at those EIs, even comparing a solvent developer like Microphen to an acutance one like Rodinal. Rodinal seems a bit sharper to me.

    I have some very unscientific tests at http://www.pbase.com/romosoho/trix_test

    allan
     
  8. reellis67

    reellis67 Subscriber

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    With Diafine, Tri-X can be rated to 1200 ~ 1600 without the effects of pushing. I use it at 1200 with nice results. Diafine doesn't do well in flat light, but other than that, it gives nice results with Tri-X.

    - Randy
     
  9. titrisol

    titrisol Member

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    from the ones you have fx-39 will probably be the best bet.
    Since normal time (400) is 8 minutes, so 14 min should do it
     
  10. fhovie

    fhovie Subscriber

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    XTOL 11 min 45 sec at 68F 5 sec agitation every 30 sec - low grain - good contrast - you will be able to enlarge them greatly if you like. TRI X at 1600 - I do this all the time.
     
  11. df cardwell

    df cardwell Subscriber

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    If you're printing them yourself, you can make life easier by using fiber paper and 'soft ' developer like Selectol Soft, or mix Ansco 120 from scratch. 'Pushing' usually means driving the shadows up the curve, and the highlights go up as well. A long scale paer developer helps you get things back to appearing normal.