Pyroc hints and tricks needed.

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Robert Kennedy, Jan 6, 2004.

  1. Robert Kennedy

    Robert Kennedy Member

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    So I got the PF kit, the one that has the liquid PMK and the Hutchings book. I even shot a few rolls of Bergger 200 to play with. Now, the question before I start is......

    What do you guys think the things to wtach for/to do are? I have a book, but experience is usually the best teacher...
     
  2. lee

    lee Member

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    What do you want to know? I use gloves (Nitrile) and I mix 5ml of A and 10 ml of B to 500 ml of h2o right before I process. That is 1-2-100. I use water for stop and rapid fixer. I don't re-soak in spent developer and I wash for 20 minutes. I use photo-flo and hang up the film to dry. I think the times in the book are too short for me. I don't use Bergger 200 so I can not help there. I can not think of anything else but I will try to help if I can. I started out using this same kit from PF. Have you read the book? That is a good place to start. The film should be green or light brown.

    lee\c
     
  3. Robert Kennedy

    Robert Kennedy Member

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    Reading the book now. More interested in agitation issues, things like that. I take it the standard Kodak Part A fix will work. Sans hardener of course.

    Also, any times for the Bergger 200 AT 200? Apparently the recommended speed is 100 and I have times for that.
     
  4. lee

    lee Member

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    Robert,
    Part A works just fine. Everyone talks about TF4 fix but I have never had it and my results look just like a friends that does use TF4 fixer. I shoot Arista 400 at the box speed of 400 and have plenty of shadow density. I recommend using the 100 speed times first and see how it looks and prints and add or subtract time as you think. I kinda tooled with it for a week or two and uped the times and uped the EI to the box speed. Agitation for me is full inversions for 10 seconds every minute, this is for roll film. Don't be a wussy here do about 3 inversions and rap the can on the sink when you set it down. For sheet film, I continuously move the film. Hutchings used to recommend re-soak for 2 minutes in spent developer for an added stain. I have read that he has backed off that statement somewhat. The stain adds to the overall stain and can become an problem to print thru since the stain is overall and not just confined to the image area. I have done it both ways and again your mileage may vary. The stain will continue to build in the wash water so it will change its appearance somewhat. I do recommend to PRE-soak for a couple of minutes. When I do sheet film I add a couple of drops of Edwal's LFN (their version of Photo-flo) to the pre-soak. With sheet film, it tends to stick together if you don't get is wet enough right away. This is not necessary with roll film IMO.

    lee\c
     
  5. Robert Kennedy

    Robert Kennedy Member

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    Cool. Very helpful. I think I will get some more Bergger, shoot it at 100 and use it to play with.

    Interesting about the stain...I wondered about that statement. It just seemed I dunno....Odd....The stuff soaks for several minutes in the dev while developing, so I wasn't sure if the 2 minute soak would add much.