So I've been frustrated with my Jobo one time too many. I ordered up a set of BTZS tubes from The View Camera store. Since I am changing my developing method (and getting one that will always work!) I will need to recalibrate my developing time, EI, etc. I've also been wanting to give Pyrocat HD a try. Thus, this seems like a perfect time to give it a go. I will be using Ilford FP4+ in 4x5 sheets. Here is what I've gathered so far to use as a starting point. ISO=100 for Ilford FP4+ Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 I am aiming to print on Ilford MGVI RC and Fiber. Beginning with a presoak of 2 minutes Temperature is at 70 degrees(F) N-1 5:30 N 8 to 8:30 N+1 15:00 No stop bath. Use water instead Kodak Rapid Fix for 5+ minutes Wash negatives This is the basic process as I understand it for Pyrocat HD. I plan to establish my EI and N, N-1, and N+1 times using the methods from Ansel's second book. This is the same method that I have used in the past. However, as I understand it I shoul use the blue channel on my densitometer over the white light channel? Now, for my questions. First, How does everyone pre-soak with the BTZS tubes? As I understand it you load the tubes in the dark and place a cap on the tube. Drop these into the water bath to let them come up to temperature. Fill the second set of caps up with developer. Then, in darkness remove each cap and set the tube up vertically atop each cap filled with developer. At the same time start the timer and drop them into the water bath. Keep them spinning for the suggested time. Then, remove the lids and transfer them to a tray filled with water (stop bath). Finally, remove them from the tubes and place them in a tray of fixer. Going back to the beginning, How is everyone presoaking their film? Are Second, Sandy King's article calls for an alkaline rapid fizer that does not have a harding agent. Am I correct that my standard Kodak Rapid Fixer fits this requirement? Thanks in advance for reading my extended post.