PYROCAT-HD Starting Times (APX100, SFX200, FORTEPAN200, anything else)

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by dogzbum, May 15, 2005.

  1. dogzbum

    dogzbum Member

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    Due to my lack of ready cash (limiting my ability to waste film on lots of testing) and preference to stand on the shoulders of giants: In my mind not Adams or Brandt but all of you who contribute to forums such as this, I would like people to contribute Pyrocat-HD starting times for films that are not covered on Unblinking Eye, the Digital Truth Massive Dev Chart or other online sources.

    My first requirements are for APX100, SFX200 and FORTEPAN200 times. These are films that I regularly use but I would also like to see other films such as HIE, NEOPAN100, NEOPAN1600 etcetera covered.

    So then, can people please contribute to this thread with ALL times that HAVE or HAVE NOT worked with Pyrocat-HD for all films?
    Mr King has provided a great tool for us, lets get together and make it more useful.
     
  2. ann

    ann Subscriber

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    We have used several films with this developer and always use the times recommened by Mr. King in his article found on unblinkingeye.

    The out come has always been outstanding.
     
  3. mark

    mark Member

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    SFX is a no go. it is a C-41 fikm. drop it at your local processor.
     
  4. donbga

    donbga Member

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    I'm not sure but I think is not a C-41 film.

    Don Bryant
     
  5. jim appleyard

    jim appleyard Member

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    SFX is a b/w extended-red film, thus the "special effects" name.


     
  6. Bob F.

    Bob F. Member

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    You are thinking of XP2. So many films (still), so little time to test them all...

    Bob.
     
  7. Tom Stanworth

    Tom Stanworth Member

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    If you search under pyrocat you will find lots of times and comments come up. I tend to soup for longer than most and find that at 1:1:100, APX100 is pretty good for 16ish mins at 20 degs C. Will give decent negs (I rated at ei of 64).

    Tom
     
  8. dogzbum

    dogzbum Member

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    Thanks Tom, I devved the APX100 (EI80) for 8:15 @ 24degC and the SFX200 (EI200) for 10:00 @ 24degC. The APX100 is OK but some of the high contrast scenes look too contrasty. The SFX200 was way overdevved.
     
  9. sanking

    sanking Member

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    If you will let me know what kind of process,(s) you use to print I will provide some recommended development times for Fortepan 200, which I have tested and used. Unfortunately, I have no experience with Neopan or with APX10o or SFX200.

    Sandy
     
  10. Mike Lyons

    Mike Lyons Member

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    Pyrocat times

    Hi, I find HP-5+ at asa 250 comes out about right at 9-10 mins 24c in a CombiPlan tank and intermittent ( 6 lifts per minute)Agitation. Depends on the scene contrast levels. In Albany ( Western Australia ) at the moment it is continuous rain, so I'd be increasing the development times. PC-HD is great for holding back those harsh Oz highlights in summer. Welcome to LF addiction.Where in Australia are you?
    Mike
     
  11. Tom Stanworth

    Tom Stanworth Member

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    We dont get highlights in the UK.

    I am now using up some old solution (which seems fine but I am away again overseas soon for another few months) and at 20 degs C, agitation for 60s then 10s every 60s for 9 mins @2:2:100, FP4 (@ISO 80) plus rollfilm looks pretty good.

    Did some HP5 (@320)plus at 1.5:1.5:100 as above and looked pretty good again at 14 mins. Shot in Kuwait so quite contrasty light.
     
  12. Claire Senft

    Claire Senft Member

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    I have been using Pyrocat HD with stand development with Agfa 100 APX. I have not used a great deal of this film. I do not know what you use for an enlarger and what grade you have as a target. I would siggest you try the following:

    liter of water.
    4 ml of part A...Pyrocat HD
    3 grams of washing soda
    Stir well until mixed.

    Presoak film for 5 minutes in tap water with agigtation.

    Agitate for the first minute in the developer.

    Try an initial test of 40 minutes total at 20ÂșC
    I use vinegar + 4 parts of water for a stop bath.

    To save film during testing either at the start of the film or the end of the film
    shoot six test negatives with a couple of blanks in between the test and the rest of the film. Take an incident reading in the sunlit and shadowed areas so that you know how much lighting contrast was available and WRITE it down.

    Dry your negatives and make a test print before drawing any conclusions due to trying to judge the effects of the staining. You may get more film speed from doing this than you expect.
    If the film has too much or too little contrast for the type of print you like modify your development time for your next test.

    As an aside, I shoot Pan F+ that have been latensified with low light and develop as listed above. I find that for a 2 stop difference that 30 minutes total stand development produces a very sharp negative that prints nicely for me using condenser enlargement on graded paper...Obviously, I do not know what you like, the paper you are using or the enlargement system.

    God Almighty but Pyrocat HD is a wonderful developer...The inventor of this developer should be considered to be a King and should be encouraged to make negatives with the largest film available.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 23, 2005
  13. Claire Senft

    Claire Senft Member

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    PLEASE NOTE...I HAVE EDITED THE ABOVE POSTING. i HAD MISSTATED THE COMPOSITION OF THE INGREDIENT STRENGTH.
     
  14. dogzbum

    dogzbum Member

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    I was wanting the Fortepan200 negs for salt or van dykes. What I really want though are silver gel times for grade 3 (diffuser enlarger) to enable me to make my own adjustments for the process type. (I currently do salt, VDB, cyano, gum bichromate, kalitype).