Question on developing Arista film...

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Scuffy, Oct 23, 2007.

  1. Scuffy

    Scuffy Member

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    Good morning ladies and gents! Hmmm... okay, it's technically 12:21PM so I guess I should just say good afternoon and drink some more coffee! :D

    Have a question to offer up. I recently purchased some Arista Edu. Ultra 100 in both the 4x5 and the 120 to experiment with. The 4x5 was to cut down to 3.25x4.25. The 120 was just to get the purchase price up over the required amount so I could have the order shipped.

    That being said I went out yesterday and burned through a roll of the 120 in hopes of coming in and developing the film at work today. BUT.... I now find that there is not a recommended development time listed for this souped in HC110 dil. B. Has anyone had any experience with this combination and can you offer up any advice?? I would just experiment a bit with it and different times but I only have the one roll. :sad:

    Any help would be wonderful! Thank you!!!

    Scuffy
     
  2. zenrhino

    zenrhino Member

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    Ive found that HC110 and Arista .edu Ultra just do not do well together. I got really fugly tonality and weird contrast from it using the same methods I did very well with previously (using Sprint and Rodinal 1:50).
     
  3. PHOTOTONE

    PHOTOTONE Member

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    Arista.edu.ultra is Foma film. Foma film develops too fast (around 3 minutes) in HC-110b. Too fast to get consistently even results. I shoot a lot of the Arista.edu.ultra 200, which is Fomapan 200. I use HC-110 dilution E, for around 6 minutes in deep tank hangar processing with fairly good results. Since you have the ISO 100 film, I can't comment on that directly.
     
  4. Monophoto

    Monophoto Member

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    I use HC110 in dilution H. That's dilution B with twice the normal amount of water. In that strength, development time is about twice the development time in dilution B with the same agitation.

    So with Ron's suggestion of 3 minutes at Dilution B, 6 minutes at dilution H would be a reasonable starting point for experimentation.
     
  5. ricksplace

    ricksplace Member

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    I have shot quite a bit of the film in 120. I use HC110 at 1+100. I use 500ml of water to which I add 5ml of the HC110 goo. I develop for a total of 18 minutes. I agitate constantly for the first minute, then one inversion only every minute thereafter. I get excellent tonality. The stronger dilutions are too fast working with Foma 100. The longer developing time and minimal agitation also gives good acutance.

    Rick.
     
  6. zenrhino

    zenrhino Member

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    Ach. That was the problem, then. I'll try the higher dilutions in the jobo and see what happens.
     
  7. dmax

    dmax Member

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    I use a lot of Arista Edu Ultra (Foma)100 in both 135, 120, and 4x5 formats. I also shoot Edu Ultra in 8x10 when time permits. I process in HC 110, in 1:50 dilution, mixed straight from the bottled syrup. Roll film goes into the usual stainless steel developing tanks, and sheet film in rotary processing tubes (Unicolor or Beseler). Depending on processing method and how much contrast I want, I usually develop around 8-10 minutes and get good tonal range from all formats. As others have pointed out, greatly diluting HC 110 does provide much more room for control. I hope this helps.
     
  8. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

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    Have you seen what APUG member 'bliorg' does with this combination? He gets fantastic tonality and contrast. But I believe he uses dilution H.
    If you're a subscriber, look his stuff up. A friend of mine was so impressed he decided to try it in 4x5 and was impressed. I am yet to see a print, but I take his word for it since he's a very meticulous and precise printer.
    I don't know the times specifically, but I say try dilution H.

    - Thomas
     
  9. r-brian

    r-brian Member

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    I, too, use Arista Edu Ultra (Foma)100 and develop in HC-110 Dil H. It is a fantastic combination. I've also used Rodinal 1+50 with great results.
     
  10. PHOTOTONE

    PHOTOTONE Member

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    I have to develop Arista Edu Ultra in HC-110 dilution "E" because that is the weakest dilution that can be replenished..and I have a 3.5 gallon tank to fill, and I develop a lot of film, otherwise dilution "H" would probably be better particularly for one-time use.
     
  11. Jim Fitzgerald

    Jim Fitzgerald Member

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    Has anyone used this combo with Pyrocat HD and minimal agitation? I have some 4x5 sheets from a recent trip and all I have right now is Pyrocat HD. I develop in tanks. I'm sorry if an answer has been posted previously. Time and temp would be helpful.

    Jim
     
  12. Scuffy

    Scuffy Member

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    I have to extend a BIIIIIIG thanks to everyone for helping me out with my questions! I really appreciate it, though now I have to find out what's wrong with my RB67! Shot a roll and developed it- looked great... the frames that were exposed that is! Thanks again!!
     
  13. Andrew Moxom

    Andrew Moxom Member

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    I tried this combination on some Arista Edu Ultra 100 4x5 sheet film rated at box speed. I used HC110 dilution H for 7.5 minutes at 20 deg C on a uniroller setup. Constant agitation with this soup made for some unbelievable negs to print. I thank fellow APUG'er 'bliorg' for this recipe. Try it, you won't be disappointed. These results coupled with the unbelievably low cost of Arista Edu Ultra sheet film in 4x5. ($19.99 for 50 sheets) this is a steal.
     
  14. Ross Chambers

    Ross Chambers Member

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    Dear Jim,

    I'm pretty much starting from scratch with Arista Edu Ultra 110 and Pyrocat HD, looking for good negs for salt printing. I can only say -- after one batch -- that there is an image! Today I printed negs developed in D76, enhanced with a 1+2 KRST bath and some developed in Pyrocat HD at 2+2+100 for 14 minutes and 16 minutes with minimal agitation, both in trays. There isn't a big difference in the prints, the D76 are marginally better to my eye.

    Being curious about Pyrocat HD's printability I tried printing some other 4x5 negs to Ilford MGIV VC resin coated and while the prints were OK the times and grades were weird. The results were not so remarkably different to encourage me to change from my D76 habits for standard silver gelatine prints, salt prints are an ongoing experiment though.

    Regards - Ross