RB67 150mm s/f photos??

Discussion in 'Medium Format Cameras and Accessories' started by stradibarrius, Nov 5, 2010.

  1. stradibarrius

    stradibarrius Member

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    Does anyone have shots taken with an RB67 150mm S/F lens? I would like to see some examples..
     
  2. Jerevan

    Jerevan Subscriber

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  3. Jeff Kubach

    Jeff Kubach Member

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    Excellent shot. One of these days I would like to buy that lens for my RB67.

    Jeff
     
  4. photoncatcher

    photoncatcher Member

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    Or you could try the old school soft focus by stretching some ladies stocking material over the front of your lens. Then there is also the light smear of Vasiline on a 1A filter.
     
  5. Jeff Kubach

    Jeff Kubach Member

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    I have to remember that. Thanks for the information.

    Jeff
     
  6. ContaxRTSFundus

    ContaxRTSFundus Subscriber

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    I have the lens and it can deliver superb images though I prefer the Mamiya 645 version which offers greater versatility and doesn't run the risk of damage if you over-tighten the front of the lens when you place one of the discs behind it...

    Of course, if your pockets are reasonably deep you could buy a set of Zeiss Softars if wiping Vaseline off filters seems a bit tedious.... The good thing about the Sekor 150mm SF lens is that it is pretty cheap on ebay so it's a great time to grab one (though double check it's got at least 2 of the 3 discs).
     
  7. CGW

    CGW Member

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    Saran can also work and distressing it can add even softer effects. The 150SF sells for all sorts of prices from dirt cheap to ridiculous regardless of condition. Many sellers, especially the dreaded "I don't know anything about photography" bottom feeders, are clueless about the disc set; in fact, I saw a complete set close at a shocking price last year, presumably purchased by someone who snagged the lens cheap without 'em. I've got the sweet RB 150/3.5 KL but have this perverse urge to get the SF.
     
  8. Ross Chambers

    Ross Chambers Member

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    A couple of quick scans attached, one in controlled indoors conditions against a black b/g (the weed) the other outdoors on a moderately contrasty day. I'm still at a trial and error point with this lens; sometimes the results are encouraging. I have read on the web many opinions regarding the virtues of the spherical aberration of this lens vs. vaseline, softars, gauze etc. Maybe those devices make focussing easier, the 150 SF isn't easy in that regard.

    BTW mine spent some of its life in GA on the shelves of KEH, it has provenance Mr stradibarrius of GA.

    Regards - Ross
     

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  9. stradibarrius

    stradibarrius Member

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    Thanks Ross Nice effect! I bought one earlier this week and just shot my first roll today. I hope to process the film tomorrow and if anything is decent I will scan it and post it here.
    I paid $85USD fo it with all three disc. It is in like new condition so I am very happy.
     
  10. Ross Chambers

    Ross Chambers Member

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    From shaky memory I recall that I paid KEH about 150 USD and it was just below "as new" and had the discs, so sounds lie a good deal.

    I wonder if folk have trouble figuring this lens out and sell it on (to our good fortune).

    I always see long telephotos for 35 mm SLRs in pawn shops around Sydney, and wonder if people have bought what they thought looked impressive and subsequently found that holding one of these telephotos steady is not so easy?
    Regards - Ross
     
  11. markbarendt

    markbarendt Subscriber

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    Great deal Barry. Welcome to the club.
     
  12. akaa

    akaa Subscriber

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    Hi All - I just got a 150 SF as well, no instructions though! Can someone point me in the direction of some? The couple links I found were broken, of course.

    barring that, I'll take some instruction from those that have used it -

    1. are the disks supposed to increase or decrease the soft effect?

    2. when used, do I set the aperture of the disk i'm using on the lens also? or is that the effective aperture with the disk inserted and the lens aperture left wide open? (i hope that makes sense)

    Thanks!

    Aris
     
  13. stradibarrius

    stradibarrius Member

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    I have some of the same questions and was going to ask them tonight. I have only used it with no disc and at f/4 you get a good effect but it could be too much n some cases.
     
  14. EdSawyer

    EdSawyer Member

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    The discs add more SF effect. The aperture on the disc is the "effective" aperture with it in place. you can shoot whatever aperture you want, with or without discs. Stopping down more (f/8 or more) reduces or eliminates the SF effect.
     
  15. Ross Chambers

    Ross Chambers Member

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    Are you sure? The discs close the aperture down and in my experience sharpen the image when the primary aperture is wide open.

    The Mamiya sheet can be found and I'm sorry but my slow connection (and maybe APUG) doesn't allow me to upload it, but here's the "skinny" (I'll learn to speak American yet):

    Focusing
    The special spherical aberration used in this lens to produce the soft focus effect
    causes some discrepancy in focusing when this is done at full aperture; therefore,
    when focusing always stop this lens down to at least f/8 to cancel the soft focus
    effect.
    The No. 1 Matte and No. 2 Checker focusing screens are ideal for use with this lens.
    The No. 3 Rangefinder Spot or No. 4 Microprism focusing screen may be used,
    however, by stopping down to f/8 or more and using the mat area.
    1. Set the lens aperture at f/8.
    2. Press the depth-of-field preview lever down. The lever locks into position
    automatically.
    3. Focus.
    4. Set the lens to the desired aperture.
    5. Return the depth-of-field preview lever to its original position by slightly
    pressing it in the return direction. The lever will then return automatically.
    Adjustment of the Soft Focus Effect
    The degree of soft focus effect varies depending on whether or not the Softness
    Control Discs are used and in accordance with which of the three Discs is used. The
    amount of effective softness, however, will also depend on the type of subject,
    distance, lighting conditions, the amount of enlargement given the negative, the
    concept, personal Iikes, etc.
    1. When not using a Softness Control Disc
    The soft focus effect varies depending on the aperture used. At full aperture (f/4)
    the softest effect is obtained. The effect is less at f/5.6 and completely disappears at
    f/8 or smaller apertures to produce a normal sharp image.
    2. When using a Softness Control Disc
    There are three different types of Softness Control Discs, each with a different
    diameter hole in the center.
    * Always set this lens at full aperture (f/4) when using one of the Softness Control
    Discs. The f-value of this lens changes according to the Disc used. When the No. 1
    Disc is used the effective lens aperture is approximately f/5; for the No. 2 Disc this
    value is approximately f/5.6; and for the No. 3 Disc it is approximately f/6.3.
    How to attach the Softness Control Discs
    1. Remove the front lens barrel by rotating it counterclockwise.
    2. Slip the disc to be used over the rear end of the front lens barrel.
    3. Put the front lens barrel back into place and tighten by rotating it clockwise.
    Depth-of-field
    The depth-of-field and the degree of softness can be easily checked by stopping
    lens down to the preset aperture by operating the depth-of-field preview lever.
    the
     
  16. markbarendt

    markbarendt Subscriber

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    In my playing with the lens, I believe that what Ross has provided is a good description.

    What I would add from practical experience is what the little holes in the disk appear to do/add is;

    1- Maintain at least most of the effect the glass is designed to give when smaller apertures are required. Without the holes the effect would be seriously diminished as the aperture closes, as evidenced by the effect disappearing once the normal aperture reaches F8.

    2- Create a secondary effect; a halo (don't know what else it might be called) pattern that matches the hole pattern. This is most visible when shooting a strongly back-lit subject.
     
  17. stradibarrius

    stradibarrius Member

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    Test time...