Rolleicord question

Discussion in 'Medium Format Cameras and Accessories' started by Mark Antony, Jun 18, 2008.

  1. Mark Antony

    Mark Antony Member

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    Hi
    I have been offered a Rolleicord I think its a III or a IV, but it has no hood and hasn't been used for 10-15 years but he says the speeds work.
    My local camera dealer has a II (1949) on which the speeds are kaput. My question is can I put the hood from the earlier camera onto the later body?
    I seems to have 4 small screws attaching it to the body.
    Thanks
    Mark
     
  2. Jerevan

    Jerevan Subscriber

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    I've been switching hoods a bit back and forth between different models of the Rolleicords and as far I have done it, they're interchangeable.
     
  3. Greg_E

    Greg_E Member

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    Yes it should work, then get the one with the bad shutter serviced so you have another camera to use.
     
  4. Mark Antony

    Mark Antony Member

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    Thanks guys, I'll give it a try. Anyone know where a how to service Rollei TLR on the net-I'm a DIY type of guy.
    Mark
     
  5. Fotoguy20d

    Fotoguy20d Subscriber

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    I scrounged a bunch of stuff when I was thinking about fixing up my Art Deco Rolleicord I. A lot of it is forum conversations from various sites that I converted to PDF. Most, I think, has to do with shutter repair since mine is in good shape except for the slow shutter. PM me your e-mail address and I'll zip it all up and send it over to you.

    Dan

    PS. A few links for you

    You can get exact model by serial number info: http://www.rolleiclub.com/
    Repair forums: http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi
    A fix it page: http://www.willegal.net/photo/rolleicord/rolleicord.htm
    Repair Manual: http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/repairmanuals.html
    Camera Manuals: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/index.html
     
  6. Greg_E

    Greg_E Member

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    Lots of good stuff on the Yahoo camera-fix group too.
     
  7. luvcameras

    luvcameras Advertiser Advertiser

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  8. RaynerJ

    RaynerJ Member

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    This is a quick and effective solution for your slow shutter problems with the 'deco.

    It does not involve lighter fluid (not pure enough for these delicate mechanisms, as it leaves a residue).

    It does not involve bathing the shutter unit (a practise which will remove all factory lubricant)

    It does not require a major strip down to re-lubricate (perhaps only required in the very worst cases)

    It has proved successful in virtually all shutters with ‘sticking’ slower speeds.

    This method (given for the Compur found in a Rolleicord Art deco) is simple, works and can be found here: http://www.pbase.com/raynerj/repair
     
  9. Sirius Glass

    Sirius Glass Subscriber

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    Thank you that was interesting and useful.

    Steve
     
  10. BrianShaw

    BrianShaw Member

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    Beware: Isopropyl aclohol contains water... a very bad thing for shutters.
     
  11. Greg_E

    Greg_E Member

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    Make sure to get the more than 90% isopropyl
     
  12. BrianShaw

    BrianShaw Member

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    Maybe even need to do better than that... 2-Propanol (reagent grade iso-propyl alcohol) has water in it. Only .02%, but it is still water.

    Watch cleaning fluid is generally hydrocarbon based, like naptha... and it has worked for years in mechanisms that are much more delicate than a shutter. The comment that lighter fluid leaves residue is certainly debatable.

    What is generally the problem with any kind of shutter cleaning without tearing to down completely is the re-distribution of old and dirty lubricants. If a shutter is really thoroughly cleaned (alcohol or naptha) and dried it won't rust and might run well. If lubricated according to spec it will more likely run well for a longer time.

    Raynerj's site is interesting, but few would consider that a gen-u-wine CLA.
     
  13. JPD

    JPD Member

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    That's why I give my more important shutters two or three baths in naptha. The first bath usually turn yellowish and dirty. The second and third baths are perfectly clear.
     
  14. BrianShaw

    BrianShaw Member

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    That is the standard procedure for watch and clock cleaning... except it is the piece parts that are cleaned in several baths, not the entire assembly, to ensure that all dirt, corrosion and old lubricant is removed and the parts can be completely dried prior to reassembly/lubrication.