Selenium toning lith prints for colour

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by wilfbiffherb, Nov 5, 2012.

  1. wilfbiffherb

    wilfbiffherb Member

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    Hello,

    another lith question. I have made a few lith prints lately and im getting some lovely golden yellow colours. i have some selenium toner in my darkroom and i mixed some up and tried toning a print i made on some fomaspeed paper and some agfa mcc118. althought he contrast changed as wouldbe expected in selenium the colour didnt change. Is this just a case of "thats how the paper tones" or is it possible to alter colour more through toning in this manner? i know that fomatone paper goes through many changes in selenium.
     
  2. Marco Buonocore

    Marco Buonocore Member

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    Lith prints seem to take to toning much more than a regularly developed print. I'd love to know why, but that's what I've found.

    MCC111 is a paper I like to lith with. I've had good luck with it, and have had lots of it that is no longer optimal for regular printing. It doesn't do heaps in selenium. It seems to take colour away rather than add it. Mainly, I use it as a way to reduce the yellowish colour I sometimes get near the end of a session with old developer. I've had more interesting results with partial sepia toning, followed by selenium.

    But you're right; that's just the way the paper is.

    I find a great way of testing to see how a particular paper reacts to selenium is to mix up a fresh batch of strong selenium toner - let's say 1:5. Then just let loose on a throw away print. Tone it for 10-15 min. Watch what it does. Some papers - Oriental Seagull comes to mind - go through several colour shifts as time goes on. Not all are pleasing, of course, but you'll see what the paper is capable of.

    If you've got the Darkroom Cookbook, there's a formula for the Formulary Thiourea Toner. I got nice brown tones out of that. Bleach was probably at around 1:20th strength. The paper bleaches very fast, and you may not get 100% redevelopment. Perhaps better suited for a print that was a bit overdeveloped.

    Good luck!
     
  3. wilfbiffherb

    wilfbiffherb Member

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    hi,

    thanks for your reply. ive got some bleached powdered at home, i may get it mixed up and have a go. one thing i found with the mcc118 is that it take about 40 minutes for an image to even start appearing in lith. about an hour and a half until the snatch point! sheesh!!
     
  4. Bertil

    Bertil Subscriber

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    " ...an hour and a half until the snatch point! sheesh!!"
    I once got the advise to try a much higher temperature (like 35° C), and it was a good advice!
    /Bertil
     
  5. Klainmeister

    Klainmeister Member

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    Temp helps A LOT. I went from 25 minute prints to 5 with an increase of just 10f
     
  6. Joerg Bergs

    Joerg Bergs Member

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    The new mcc neads 12 minutes for the snatch point.
     
  7. wilfbiffherb

    wilfbiffherb Member

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    i may try and heat but as im printing 16 x 16 i dont know how i would heat so large an area. or i could preheat the chemical in a pan beforehand or something, then pour it in.......hmmmm......
     
  8. Klainmeister

    Klainmeister Member

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    I take the bottle of chemistry and put it in a boiling water bath in my sink for 20 minutes before printing and use a larger tray under the chemistry in the DR with warm water as well.
     
  9. paul_c5x4

    paul_c5x4 Subscriber

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    A couple of dish warmers wound up to full heat under the developer tray. A couple of aquarium heaters, one in each side of the tray, might work.. Another alternative would be a pig warming blanket - Not the easiest of things to google for in the UK, but one supplier is [url=""http://www.phillips-animal-health-ltd.co.uk/kane_pig_heating_mats.htm]Phillips Animal Health Ltd[/url].

    If you are running to an hour to develop a single print, the developer is going to cool down pretty rapidly if you preheat in a pan.
     
  10. wilfbiffherb

    wilfbiffherb Member

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    I dont mind the wait to be honest but sometimes the darkroom floor can be hard and unforgiving on the bum.