Starting E6 development

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by Atari1977, Mar 24, 2013.

  1. Atari1977

    Atari1977 Member

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    So I'm interested in trying out E6 development, primarily for Super 8 film. So I had a few questions. First, is a single tank going to cut it? For movie film, I've got one Morse tank. Second, where can I get the chemicals for the process. I believe I can control the temperature, just put all idle chemicals into hot water to maintain their temperature.
     
  2. Kevin Caulfield

    Kevin Caulfield Subscriber

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    Temperature control is critical, especially for the first developer and colour developer steps, but it is possible to do this with water baths - you will just need to be very vigilant and attentive.

    Depending where you are there are a number of different kits available. Tetenal works well.
     
  3. Atari1977

    Atari1977 Member

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    Well I'm in Atlanta, GA if that makes any difference
     
  4. Kevin Caulfield

    Kevin Caulfield Subscriber

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    I think in the USA you have a few more E6 options than we have in Australia. Try B&H and Freestyle.
     
  5. polyglot

    polyglot Member

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    Fuji E6 kit, available from Macodirect (Germany) and Ag Photographic (UK). Don't seem to be any sellers in the USA except for the 3-bath (blix) kits like Tetenal.

    See the FAQ in my signature for E6 directions. One tank is fine as long as you can empty/fill it fairly rapidly and can provide constant agitation.
     
  6. noacronym

    noacronym Member

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    How would you print these slides? From what I can tell nobody makes a positive to positive print process any more. Sad.
     
  7. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

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    The OP is working with movie film.
     
  8. noacronym

    noacronym Member

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    oooh--my eyesight is getting worse. Sorry. Stil would like to know though what's up for pos to pos color. From what I can tell, forget that idea. Just so you'll know, I have to turn my head up to see through the bottom part of my glasses, and take them off completely and squint for close-up. Movie film--got it.
     
  9. chuck94022

    chuck94022 Subscriber

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    Well, the digital onslaught doesn't preclude you from projection, or from the joy of the loupe. And of course, there are also solutions that are best discussed on dpug, starting with an 's'.
     
  10. ME Super

    ME Super Member

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    Since you asked... Dwayne's still offers duplicate slides (from 35mm only) for US$0.50 and slides from negs, prints, or CD for US$1.10. It's on their "Prints from Slides" order form. http://www.dwaynesphoto.com/common/newforms/Prints_from_Slides.pdf. I've noticed the places that send out to Fuji are now advertising on their "Specialty Film Services" that they offer slides from slides and negs, but they're charging more for it than Dwayne's.

    I have no idea if this is an analog process or if they scan and use a film recorder. I'm guessing it's scan+film recorder though.
     
  11. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

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    You can still use Portra 160 to make internegatives, if you so desire.
     
  12. Atari1977

    Atari1977 Member

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  13. polyglot

    polyglot Member

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    Neither; they both use a blix. They will work, but the quality of results will decline with the age of the kit. If at all possible, get a kit with separate bleach and fix.
     
  14. pukalo

    pukalo Member

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    The Tetenal kit is better. I have used both, also the full kodak fuji 7 bath kits. The tetenal gives the same results as kodak fuji. No differece, just easier.
    Blix works just as good as seperate bleach and fix baths, the difference being that you must use it within 2 weeks of mixing. Seperate bleach and fix is designed for continuous industrial lab usage with a replenished system. Blix is for 1,2,3 shot use then discard home processing.
     
  15. pukalo

    pukalo Member

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    Also, remember that there is NO wash step between the bleach then fix steps in kodak fuji, because it is not needed. Bleach and fixer can be combined, but must then be used within 2 weeks.