Strange Light Leaks... Help?

Discussion in 'Large Format Cameras and Accessories' started by EASmithV, Feb 6, 2013.

  1. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    I've recently acquired a 4x5 Super D Graflex SLR (Awesome!!!)

    I got impatient for my slotted film holders to come in the mail, so I took a pack film holder and rigged it up with some x-ray film, but I experienced some unusual light leaks.

    Untitled-5.jpg Untitled-6.jpg


    I assumed that I had improperly light proofed the pack film back, so I waited for my first film holder to come in the mail.

    Well, it came in today, so I excitedly loaded it up and ran 4 sheets with it. I just developed those sheets, and on two of them, I have the same issue.

    Is this even a light leak? I've never seen the like before. Is it possible that it could be caused by bad light traps in the DDS and pack film back? It would explain why 50% of the shots with the DDS are leaked if one side has a faulty trap, however, I would think that a light leak from the DDS would have a more distinctive and feathered appearance...

    I'll post the other sheets when they are dry enough to scan

    *edit* adding quick cell phone snaps of the affected negs... luckily the two portraits I shot came out ... alright. Both on different loadings of the holder
    image (1).jpg image.jpg
     
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  2. fran

    fran Member

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    It looks more like a malfunctioning focal plane shutter than a light leak. Shutter stalls just before closing so that strip at the top ends up over exposed. Also note in your first pic that there is shake at the top of the pic that isn't evident lower down? All points to that area getting more exposure, ie image forming light rather than a leak as such.


    Fran
     
  3. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    Perhaps you're right... the shutter bounces a bit on closing on the A tension... Which would explain the consistent size of the exposed strip on the image, and why I only get it on the A tension. Why is this, and how can I prevent it?
     
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  4. fran

    fran Member

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    Now, that I can't tell you..... but I'll bet there is some adjustment in there and you'll get an answer over at graflex.org if not here.....


    Good luck with it!!
     
  5. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    here are the scans
    I used a modified barrel lens, so don't confuse optical distortion with motion blur

    Untitled-7.jpg Untitled-8.jpg


    And here are two shot at the B tension setting on Low. I'm guessing the reduced contrast toward the bottom on the first one is due to shooting an uncoated lens into a backlit-ish area?

    Untitled-9.jpg Untitled-10.jpg


    Could this be an error with the shutter brake? does this even have a shutter brake?
     
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  6. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    I just checked my Pacemaker speed... The shutter curtain on it when set to a similar tension also bounces slightly, however, it seems like it is wound far enough into the body by the time the travel stops that when it bounces it avoids exposing any film.

    I also discovered something interesting... With the rotating back set at a 45* angle, i can see a little bit into the bottom of the camera. When the curtain ceases it's travel, it is not far traveled into the camera body at all. In fact, it's travel stops at the free spinning roller inside the back. When it comes to a stop, it bounces, exposing the film. However, when it has come to rest and finished bouncing it has returned to its original position with the metal lip of the shutter opening resting on the metal roller. But then, when you bring the mirror back down again, the shutter drops into the camera to the point where the metal lip is much further below the roller.

    However, even when it is set so that the natural resting place is where the metal lip is below the roller, by winding it by hand and releasing it, it still bounces up above the roller and to the point where it would re-expose the film.
     
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  7. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    It's broken you should get rid of it and send it to me for the cost of shipping... :wink:


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. johnielvis

    johnielvis Member

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    yeah, you can fix that pretty easy--the TOP roller on which the shutter is wound can be let go ONE gear tooth...that should drop the slit a bit more BUT BEWARE that the top of the next slit doesn't drop down too far....old roller shutters are sometimes weird where they shrink a very small amount and the smallest slits or the widest slits aren't in perfect synch--so if the big slits work, then the tiny (fast shutter speed) slits will not line up right....and vice versa....maybe it'll change with use....like another 100 years of use...or you'll get lucks and one gear tooth space will fix 'er perfect
     
  9. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    Anyone know where to get a manual for disassembling this camera?
     
  10. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    eric

    before you disassemble
    does mirror locks up all the way
    sometimes they dangle and obstruct

    make sure there isn't a problem with your film holders too
    take a regular unslotted holder and tape it ( masking tape ) to the back
    shoot a paper negative ..
    tape a sheet of waxed paper on the back and focus on it like ground glass
    so you might see what is going on with the lens on B ... flip the switch
    and flip up the mirror ..

    - john

    ps. what does the seller say? did he/ she know about this strange problem?
     
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  11. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    The mirror swings free and clear. Everything is crisp and snappy except for the bounce of the shutter on the A tension. When shot at other speeds, its yielding a good negative.
    I have not contacted the seller, but seeing as he is on APUG, he may find out presently anyway.
     
  12. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    hi eric

    have you tried the other speeds do they have the same problem ?

    - john
     
  13. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    Everything is fine, it's just tension A.

    I'm probably gonna look around and see who can CLA it for a reasonable price.
     
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  14. snederhiser

    snederhiser Member

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    Hello;
    Make sure that all of the bearings are oiled on the shutter shafts. Also the shutter lever needs to activated with a quick motion, don't let you finger linger on the release. A retension of the shutter spring may be needed, Steven.
     
  15. shutterfinger

    shutterfinger Subscriber

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    Repaired!

    All bearings and gears were dry, shutter curtain was incorrectly attached to the lower (tension) roller, bonded to itself at the top (wind) roller between the O opening and the end of curtain.
    Fixed, to be returned in the next day or two. :smile:
     
  16. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    Camera recieved, and I ran 2
    Sheets through it. Now it's working beautifully!!!