Stupid Question: Can Prints Be Dried in Trays?

Discussion in 'Enlarging' started by clayne, Sep 10, 2009.

  1. clayne

    clayne Member

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    I haven't set up any kind of screens and I usually just hang the fiber prints in my drying cabinet. However, I'm getting tired of the clothespin marring. Flatness isn't a big problem, though. Is it possible to dry prints in dry clean trays? The reason I ask is that it's pretty easy for me to fit these in the cabinet and avoid dust while allowing a slow dry - but I'd like to avoid prints sticking to plastic, etc.
     
  2. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    NO :D

    They stick to the tray. Make some drying screens.

    Ian
     
  3. clayne

    clayne Member

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    Thanks! Glad I didn't waste any. :smile:
     
  4. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    And waste you would, they are real pigs to remove once stuck :smile:

    Ian
     
  5. JBrunner

    JBrunner Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    You can dry prints in trays, but then you have to either mat and frame the tray or use a putty knife to get the print out, which makes the hanging mark thing seem pretty inconsequential. I have dried prints on cardboard (the box kind) with very good results.
     
  6. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    The Sticky - Getting Fiber Base Paper Flat at ....

    Read there my and other's posts on the
    subject. I use the corrugated board method
    and employ not absorbent blotter separators
    but a polyester sheeting which is hydrophobic.
    In effect it is water proof.

    The board and sheeting cost nearly nothing.
    A stack when built weighs very few pounds.
    Easy to stow out of the way. When in use it
    must be weighted on top.

    If done correctly, Dry and Flat in one move.
    A slow gentile dry. Dan
     
  7. BobNewYork

    BobNewYork Member

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    As opposed to a Jewish dry? :D:D Sorry someone had to - and, of course it would be me !!

    Bob H
     
  8. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    The Sticky - Getting Fiber Base Paper Flat at ....

    ... B&W film, paper, chemistry

    Read there my and other's posts on the
    subject. I use the corrugated board method
    and employ not blotters but non absorbent
    separators of polyester sheeting.

    The board and sheeting cost nearly nothing.
    A stack when built weighs very few pounds.
    Easy to stow out of the way. When in use
    it must be weighted on top.

    If done correctly, Dry and Flat in one move.
    A slow gentile dry. Dan
     
  9. michaelbsc

    michaelbsc Member

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  10. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    The corrugated board stack dryer builds with board on bottom
    then separator, print, separator, print, separator, and last
    a board. The separator material I've found to work well
    is Pellon 70; a hydrophobic non-woven polyester.
    Available at fabric shop as interfacing.

    So, some corrugated board, $3.00 of interfacing and you've
    all thats needed for dry and flat in one move. Allow for
    several days to dry. A slow, gentile dry. Dan
     
  11. michaelbsc

    michaelbsc Member

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    So, if I have 15 prints to dry, I'll need a piece of cardboard for the top of the stack, the bottom of the stack, and between each print/seperator pile? 16 cardboards total?

    Or, by the description, I should stack more than one print/seperator pile beween two cardboards?

    Michael
     
  12. JBrunner

    JBrunner Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I don't usually use separators fwiw, I use a large screen, (or large piece of cardboard when I was doing it that way) and don't stack the prints. There are lots of ways to do it, and varying methods to flatten. You might want to check out the sticky thread on getting fiber prints flat, it has lots of information you may find useful.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/57699-getting-fiber-based-paper-flat.html
     
  13. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    CORRUGATED

    That's right, double up twixt the CORRUGATED boards.
    On bottom a board then separator, prints, separator,
    prints, separator, board; arriving, it may be said
    at a new bottom. And so the stack is built.

    Not for ever one. I usually quick dry on a screen. When
    there are enough prints I re-wet, sponge dry, and build
    the stack. Off course I could take prints fresh out of
    the wash, sponge dry and stack. I do few prints in
    any one session so let them accumulate.

    Print emulsions should face each other through the
    separator. For ripple free print edges the prints should
    be about 2 inches within the open flute edges of the
    CORRUGATED board. So, the maximum 20 inch
    wide separator material will do up to 16 x ?

    Two 8x10s EACH layer length wise will need a stack
    12x22. Width wise, 14x18. It's how you cut it. Take
    note of the open flutes; more margin. Dan