tmax 400 at ISO200

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by pmu, Jun 24, 2005.

  1. pmu

    pmu Member

    Messages:
    109
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    home
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Can you guys help me, what would be the right time for developing Tmax400 35mm roll shot at ISO200 with tmax RS developer? Usually I use 24celcius temperature and 5 min for ISO400. I have 10 rolls shot at ISO200 and cannot find the information on the developing time... Thanks!
     
  2. jim appleyard

    jim appleyard Member

    Messages:
    2,131
    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    The Massive Dev. Chart at digitaltruth.com lists 12 min. for this dev. at 24C with a 1+1 dilution and an EI of 250. This should put you in the ballpark. I would invest another roll of photos of my dog, car, etc., and check this combo out before I went a processed all 10 rolls of my good stuff.
     
  3. pmu

    pmu Member

    Messages:
    109
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    home
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Ok, I am a beginner in this developing thing but do I really have to increase developing time in pull prosessing? I have push-prosessed tmax400 shot at ISO 1600 with tmax rs at 7 minutes in 24 celsius temperature. Results are very nice. Is it really that I must increase the time to 12 minutes when I want to pull one stop? Sounds weird!


    EDIT> I normally use "stock" dilution in my prosessings but does this pull prosessing require that mentioned 1 part developer and 1 part water mix? And then increase that developing time?
     
  4. ann

    ann Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,919
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2002
    Shooter:
    35mm
    it is very common to half the ISO of the manufacture rating, then develop about 20% less,
    or take a roll and use your standard times and see how you like the results.

    With dilution of developer it is also not uncommon to increase the development times.
     
  5. Donald Qualls

    Donald Qualls Member

    Messages:
    1,845
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2005
    Location:
    North Caroli
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Generally, yes, you need to develop less to pull. With many developers, it's easier to dilute than to shorten time, especially if the time is already close to the recommended lower limit of 5 minutes -- it's hard to fill, agitate, and drain a tank consistently enough to give both even and consistent (from roll to roll) development if your time is under five minutes.

    OTOH, you can get close enough for printable negatives; I once developed Tri-X in HC-110 Dilution B at 90 F -- as I recall, the dev time was just about 3 minutes. Worked fine, though what I know now would suggest that was mostly because it was Tri-X; few other B&W films would survive that kind of temperature.
     
  6. pmu

    pmu Member

    Messages:
    109
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    home
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Ok, if pull-prosessing means less prosessing time, how can it be that tmax400 shot at ISO100 must be developed 5,5 minutes (with stock dilution) when normal ISO400 developing time is 5 minutes (with stock dilution)??? (With tmax rs) Developing times taken from digital truth charts that is...
     
  7. Donald Qualls

    Donald Qualls Member

    Messages:
    1,845
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2005
    Location:
    North Caroli
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Beats me. "Normal" for TMY, for me, is 19 minutes at 68 F in HC-110 Dilution G, continuous agitation first minute, then five inversions in 10-15 seconds every 3rd minute. N+1, aka one stop push, I give agitation every minute; N-1, aka one stop pull (kind of -- toe speed remains unchanged) I reduce agitation to every 5 minutes. The long development gives a toe speed similar to a one stop push with all three, but contrast is contolled by agitation; I can shoot at EI 640-800 with shadow detail comparable to what a "normal" process in, say, D-76 stock solution would give, or I can shoot at EI 200 and get shadow detail that looks as if I had a crew with reflectors on site (albeit overall contrast is a bit flattened).
     
  8. BradS

    BradS Subscriber

    Messages:
    4,219
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    S.F. Bay Area
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Just finished dev'ing a roll of 400TMY. Rated it at EI 250

    HC-110(B): 5.75 minutes @ 69 degreees F agitate 10 seconds each minute
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2005
  9. lee

    lee Member

    Messages:
    2,913
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2002
    Location:
    Fort Worth T
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    I dont consider 200 from 400 a pull development

    I consider that to be the real film speed of this film

    Develop it normally just like you would had you exposed it at what 400? you should have a nice increase in shadow detail. You may like the prints from the resulting negs somewhat better

    lee\c
     
  10. dr bob

    dr bob Member

    Messages:
    871
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2002
    Location:
    Annapolis, M
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    That's exactly right. If one decreases his EI it is usually for the reason that the "rated" ISO is not acceptable for the equipment and shooting technique of the photographer. Therefore "normal" development would be called for. If on the other hand, the photographer wanted to compress his contrast, a true "pull" development would be called for.
     
  11. pmu

    pmu Member

    Messages:
    109
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    home
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Well, I developed one roll with stock dilution and reduced time by 30 seconds from normal ISO400 time. Results look just fine for me.

    But, this leads us into new question: I can "read" the negative so that I realize if the negative is underexposed or overexposed and in clear situation I can figure out the dynamics (shots taken in very contrasty light). But how can I know the "real" contrast, shadow detail etc. by using my scanner??? Usually when all scanner settings are "neutral" the shot looks nothing like the negative but by adjusting the scanner settings the image often gets fantastic look. So, usually I shoot ISO400 and keep that developing time same - by adjusting I get the look that I want. But is it possible that I am developing "wrong" and could get a lot better results otherwise (=to get into that same result WITHOUT needing to use editing)? I hope this is not too stupid question!

    Attached image is from that previously mentioned roll.
     

    Attached Files: