To Compromise or Not (HC-110 for Paper or Other)

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by kb244, Aug 16, 2006.

  1. kb244

    kb244 Member

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    I got close to 250 sheets of Kodak Polycontrast III RC 8x10 photographic paper ( or i'd say reasonably 90% left from what the student used ), about 15 sheets of ilford multigrade IV Fiber Glossy 8x10. For one I dont know if the paper is still good (you know like open the box. "oopsie" close it up by the previous student), and I'm thinking bout doing some contact prints from some 6x9 negatives.

    Thing is I don't want to go out and buy a bottle of paper developer especially if I dont know which I want to get. So I'm wondering. Can I just use some HC-110 developer as a compromise. I also got an old orange bottle of Agfa Nuetol universal paper developer concentrate that is said to be able to do 100 8x10 prints, however according to the data on the box the moment I mix the 1 Litre stock, I have 4 weeks before it goes bad and I don't want to be cracking it open just to do a couple then have it go back from the time.

    Thoughts?
     
  2. df cardwell

    df cardwell Subscriber

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    Can I just use some HC-110 developer as a compromise.

    No.

    Buy some Dektol.

    .
     
  3. Markok765

    Markok765 Member

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    The neutol is probably done. try ilford multigrade or PQ universal
     
  4. JHannon

    JHannon Member

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    I second using Dektol. you can get a small pack to make 1 litre stock solution for about $3. Then dilute 1+2 with water.
     
  5. kb244

    kb244 Member

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    Probally only online.
     
  6. JHannon

    JHannon Member

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    No, I get mine at Hunt's Photo here in Melrose, MA. I am not sure what photo stores are near you...
     
  7. Ryuji

    Ryuji Member

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    Say no to HC-110.

    All developers have limited shelf life unless you keep them free of air. Neutol Plus is good because it's hydroquinone-free, but it's also known to be on the poor side when it comes to shelf life and tray life.

    If you don't mind hydroquinone, and if you don't mind mixing powder, I'd recommend Dektol 1+2. If you don't mind hydroquinone but prefer liquid, Ilford Multigrade Developer. If you prefer hydroquinone-free, there aren't many options, but the green link below should help you. (Or of course you can mix up DS-14 from raw chemicals.)
     
  8. Markok765

    Markok765 Member

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    As I sya, Dont compromise on chemicals: they are the cheapest part of the process.
     
  9. kb244

    kb244 Member

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    So say no to HC-110 as a paper developer, I'm pretty much already set on saying yes as a film developer, HC-110 in it's concentrate form ( and I always dilute from concentrate ) seems to last for years.

    Whenever the Mfr gets to about half full I move em to one of these.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. kb244

    kb244 Member

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    Well up until a month or two ago there was

    Arden Photos
    Mark's Photo
    Norman Cameras
    Camera Center (where I work)

    Then Arden and Mark's photo closed, so theres just Norman's which has some ilford liquid concentrates, microphen and d76 for film developing, *some* paper , but mostly its a 98% digital camera store with the entire stock of canon, nikon, etc lens on display and such.

    Then theres my store which I think will have maybe some dextol for 1litre stock, xtol, ethnol, rodinal, tmax dev, d76 bunch of ilford paper, I mean I probally check the back to see if that bottle of ilford multigrade developer was still sealed or not. I just wanted to know if the HC-110 could be a compromise for a single night of doing a quick contact print and see if the paper comes thru (ie: some student didnt accidently open the box and go oopsie and close it if you know what I mean).
     
  11. df cardwell

    df cardwell Subscriber

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    Sure, HC1110 will give an image to test the paper/

    it may not flag subtle fogging,
    but, yes, if you want to see if the lid came off the box and exposed unwrapped paper, sure.
     
  12. kb244

    kb244 Member

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    I ended up getting a small 1Litre solution of Dextol at work at cost since we had it, mixed it up when I got home and did some quick contact prints, paper seems to be perfectly good, I did fog one sheet getting a small 4x5 cutout of paper too close to the safelight, I could tell cuz the fogging had cross shaped squares (ie: I set the safelight up on the towel rack thats close to the ceiling ( bout 6 foot away, and also indiect since it only shined upwards ) , and the rack is in that shape (I had it bout a few inches, when checking.... duh)

    They seemed to come out quite well for the PanF 6x7s I was doing contact on. The fogged trix negative obviously needs a few more seconds exposure lol.
     
  13. Sparky

    Sparky Member

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    For-GET the others' advice. They're robots. Too many ansel adams books! USE the HC-110, try urine, try coffee, ajax, witches brew...! Try anything you think might have a chance of working. You might be AMAZED at the result and become the next big artworld superstar. People need to shake things up just a little bit more, methinks.
     
  14. kb244

    kb244 Member

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    tries some of the Algea infested water from the frog's tank as the stopbath + fixer in one.