URGENT!

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by olleorama, Sep 20, 2011.

  1. olleorama

    olleorama Member

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    Hello, I had put my chemicals in my temp. bath and when they're up to temp now some of the lovely dymo-labels has fallen of! This is the first time this has happened! In over 10 development sessions.

    So Color dev still has it's label, it's blueish
    The bleach and fix bottle has lost their labels, There's one that's deep amber, and one that's a much lighter amber, I suspect the lighter one to be the fix. Is that correct??

    Getting ready with the industrial marker...

    (and one final wash that has a light pink tint)

    I have only developed reala and konica centuria proffessional if that helps.
     
  2. jnovek

    jnovek Member

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    So you don't know which is bleach and which is fix?

    An easy way to test this would be to take a piece of developed B&W film leader (so that it's completely black), dip it in one of the solutions for a minute or two. If it's the bleach, you will be able to see it start to bleach back the submerged area of the leader. In order to avoid cross contamination, you don't want to use the same strip of leader for both solutions.

    My money is on it being the darker solution.

    Jason
     
  3. vpwphoto

    vpwphoto Member

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    Bleach Blix as i remeber was a dark liquid.... go with Jason's idea.
     
  4. olleorama

    olleorama Member

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    Fantastic! I now know which is which! Let the development begin!

    oops, forgot to say thanks!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 20, 2011
  5. jnovek

    jnovek Member

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    As soon as you're done developing your current film, you might want to mark all four of your bottles with a permanent marker. :smile:

    Jason
     
  6. Steve Smith

    Steve Smith Member

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    He has already thought of that!


    Steve.
     
  7. Worker 11811

    Worker 11811 Member

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    Sanford "Uni-Paint" markers:
    http://www.filmtools.com/sanunipainma.html

    Solvent-based, pigment (paint) markers. Sticks to glass, metal, plastic, etc.
    Permanent on many surfaces. Durable on most.
    Opaque & available in many colors: Red, White, Black, Yellow, etc.

    I keep several in the darkroom, specifically for marking containers of things like my chems just for the reason you state. Many other markings, even Sharpie, sometimes come off. They usually come off at the least convenient time.

    (Enter, Capt. Murphy. Stage left. :wink: )
     
  8. TheFlyingCamera

    TheFlyingCamera Membership Council Council

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  9. Existing Light

    Existing Light Member

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    Fixer has a salty taste, or at least B&W fixer does. Dont you dare ask how I know! :D
     
  10. olleorama

    olleorama Member

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    I have a industrial supplier firm labeled industrial marker I got in a former life. Seems to work. However, dymos are cuter (wow, did I write that? where's my testosterone?).

    Done four rolls now, two tanks since I posted.

    I'm using rollei digibase chemicals. I have done 10 rolls in the litre solutions I mixed last time (buthaned since last session), should I start extending dev time?
     
  11. olleorama

    olleorama Member

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    Actually when I think about it, I tested the fixer. I took an unexposed leader from a B&W film and tested the fix on it, it cleared it. The bleach did not.
     
  12. olleorama

    olleorama Member

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    Ok, I'll answer myself. I've added ten seconds for each 4 rolls after the 12th for one liter of developer. I have now done 22 rolls in it. I can't see any differences on the negs. I'll have to see how they print. I'm 99% sure they'll scan well.
     
  13. jnovek

    jnovek Member

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    "I took an unexposed leader"

    I suppose that's actually probably a bit easier, huh?

    BTW, I believe that Freestyle has technical documentation (including exhaustion rates) for the Rollei Digibase chemicals available for download on all the Rollei Digibase the product pages. That should be a good baseline for adding development time.
     
  14. olleorama

    olleorama Member

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    I have the manual by rollei, doesn't say anything..