Using a Beseler PM2 color analyzer?

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by srs5694, Oct 22, 2006.

  1. srs5694

    srs5694 Member

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    Hi,

    I've got a Beseler PM2 color analyzer that's gathering dust because I don't know how to use it. (I got it without a manual.) Does anybody have any pointers, or better yet, a copy of the manual they could scan or photocopy for me? (I'm willing to pay a reasonable amount for photocopying and postage.) Thanks for any tips.
     
  2. BruceN

    BruceN Member

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    I just emailed you a pdf manual for a PM2L. I have one of those and use it occasionally.

    Bruce
     
  3. srs5694

    srs5694 Member

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    Thanks. I got the e-mail. I've printed, but have not yet read, the manual.
     
  4. Chan Tran

    Chan Tran Member

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    I have the manual for the PM2A, If you need it let me know I can send you a scanned copy.
     
  5. cw4wheeler@comcast.n

    cw4wheeler@comcast.n Member

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    Beseler PM2 Manual.

    Sir,

    I have exactly the same pronelm. I purchased a PM2 without a manual. I would be really grateful if you could send me a copy and will greatfully refund you for any expense you incur.

    My e-mail is cw4wheeler@comcast.net
     
  6. ZorkiKat

    ZorkiKat Member

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    Make sure that your analyser's phototube is working. Its the main component inside the probe. I have a Beseler analyser too. Got it without a manual, and tried for so long to figure out how it worked. Then I was able to get one, and still I can't make heads or tails of the setup. Then it became clear that the probe had a dead tube in it. The machine would work, the numbers would appear on the panel, but it won't do as the instructions describe it.

    It's really a tube inside- if you open the probe, it will contain what looks like a large radio tube(valve). I would think that the probe in my unit got dropped or knocked around before I got it.

    Jay
     
  7. srs5694

    srs5694 Member

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    cw4wheeler, I've just sent you an e-mail with the PDF that BruceN sent me. I hope you find it helpful.

    ZorkiKat, my unit's tube definitely works. The thing responds more-or-less as I'd expect from the instructions. I haven't gotten around to doing more color printing since I posted my query, though, so I don't yet know how well the analyzer works. I plan to do more color printing within a few days, so I'll know more soon enough....
     
  8. Chan Tran

    Chan Tran Member

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    I am curious to know which version of the PM2 you all have? I never had the PM2 but I believe it's close to the PM2A. I have the PM2A, PM2L and PM2M. I think they are the newer version of the plain PM2. The PM2L is the lower end model and the PM2M is the top model.
     
  9. srs5694

    srs5694 Member

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    Mine is just marked "PM2." It looks just like this one on eBay. Judging by the switches and dials in photos, it looks like the PM2A and PM2L are low-end models, the PM2 has more features, and the PM2M has more features still.
     
  10. cw4wheeler@comcast.n

    cw4wheeler@comcast.n Member

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    Mr. Tran,

    Pardon me for typical novice stupidity, but I assumed there was only one PM2. I soon found that there was a series of them. I quickly got a response from the gentleman who started this thread sending me a cvopy of the manual he got from another member. He sent me a copy of the manual for the PM2L. Ther unit I bpought is the PM2A. I guess that the title itself implies the there would be a progressive series of this unit, it just did not occur to me. I don't know that there will be a great difference between units, but there must be some. If anyone knows bwhat they are or has a PM2A manual, again, I will be happy to cover any cost involved in getting a copy. And to Rod, thank you for your efforts in my behalf. Joe
     
  11. Chan Tran

    Chan Tran Member

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    I can see that the PM2 was design strictly for printing from color neg because it has a common Cyan dial (labeled Master). I can see it has 3 program banks. The main one with the knobs below and the 2 additional one on the right hand side with the selector switch just below them. The newer models all have separate Cyan knob.
    The PM2A has 1 set of programming knobs but accept plug in module. It also has a coarse and fine adjustment knobs for each channel.
    The PM2L lacks fine/coarse adjustment and does not accept plug in module and thus it only has 1 programming bank.
    The PM2M has larger meter. The coarse adjustment knobs have click stop and it also accept plug in module. It also has fiber optic probe with cosine adjustment. Actually the fiber optic probe simply pipes light into an idential probe like other models.
    I also have the PM4L which is identical to the PM2M but with a digital display and when in the white channel the readout displays exposure time in seconds.
    Operation principle of all those are about the same.
     
  12. kissssss

    kissssss Member

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    @BruceN, Chan Tran: please send me a scan file to truongthx@gmx.net. I just bought a dust and beseler pm2M analyzer. Hope them are same. Thank you very much!
     
  13. mtjade2007

    mtjade2007 Member

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    I own and have used many color analyzers, including one called Chromega Pro something. I have the analyzers in boxes these days. Color analyzers are primarily for figuring out filtration for printing negatives. One practice that I tried to follow is to print an image as a standard. Then store the filtration analyzer CMYK values as a program in the analyzer. Typically skin tone of a person is the interesting point. So you store the analyzer CMYK values on a spot of the skin as a program. When you print another picture and you want to achieve a same skin tone you can set the sensor on the image spot of the skin with the analyzer set to the stored program. Then you adjust the M and Y filters (C is usually set to 0) of the color head of the enlarger and the aperture of the enlarger lens until the analyzer has the same CMYK values stored in the program. This is to adjust the filtration pack and aperture of the enlarger lens (with a fixed exposure time) until the analyzer's CMYK readings are nulled (0) on the meter of the analyzer. The program and the analyzer helps you to figure out the filtration and aperture so that when you expose to a same photo paper and process it the same way with same chemicals you will produce an exact identical skin tone on the spot you used to run the program.

    This may sound not very complicated. But in reality it is not a trivial task. You may reproduce the identical skin tone for a tiny spot yet all remaining colors of the picture are still way off color balance. If your images always have a white, a black and a 18% gray spot hidden in them then the analyzer can help you figuring out the enlarger filtration and aperture in a minute, if not sooner. And you will always get a perfect print. In reality this is just impossible. Nevertheless it is a fun instrument to play with. It will depend on yourself how useful it may become to you. I have not used any of them for more than 10 years.
     
  14. Cruzingoose

    Cruzingoose Member

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    Simplified operating procedure for color analyzers

    "I've got a Beseler PM2 color analyzer that's gathering dust because I don't know how to use it. "


    OK Guys and Gals, here's how to make it work.

    [1] Using a good negative with an image shot in daylight, make a good print as you would without the analyzer. Try to use an exposure time of 10 seconds.

    [2] After you have dried and viewed your print and like it, go back to your enlarger. Using a difuser (wax paper under the lens will do), switch the probe to WHITE and adjust the WHITE knobs for CENTER NULL (it just happens to be 10 seconds exposure time also).

    [3] Now you have two choices. AVERAGE INTERGRATION or CLEAR EDGE analysys.

    [3a} Using AVERAGE method, hold the difuser under the lens, switch the probe to CYAN and adjust cyan knobs adjust to CENTER NULL. Then YELLOW, Then MAGENTA. Write down the settings so to return later if need be. EXAMPLE: C-F45 Y-G63 M-E84 W-D38. You are now programmed. The catch is this method is good for AVERAGE negatives with a good balance of colors. If you try to print a neg of a green house in a green pasture with a green fence, your print WILL be green as the analyzer is trying to AVERAGE the colors.

    [3b] CLEAR EDGE analysis is different. It measures the BASE color of the negative itself. The images printed this way will print in the color that were taken in. Example, a noontime picture will print neutral while a late afternoon image will print the yellowish color of the sunlight. A flash exposure may print cool, but it depends on your flash unit. To do this, adjust the WHITE probe and knobs using the difuser. Now without using the difuser, move the negative slightly 'till you clear edge between frames is in the center of the easel. Put the probe there and set the probe for Cyan and adjust for CENTER NULL then switch to Yellow and Magenta. Note these readings and jot them down also. Now by analyzing the clear part of a negative, you can print the true color the film recorded easily.


    Remeber, the analyzer is a tool to get you very close to ideal and will do this consistantly despite different film types. If your initial print is off color, a small change is 5 points on the filter pack and a large change is 10 points. The trick to color printing is to reproduce BLACK AND WHITE (GRAY).

    There are other methods, but I like and use both of these. I have the PM2M and PM2L analyzers I purchased over 20 years ago and they work as well today as did when new.
     
  15. SurfDog

    SurfDog Member

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    Beseler PM2

    If you still have that file, would you mind sending it to me? I am new here, but just received a PM2 today and no book.
    Thank you,
    Rudy Willis
     
  16. frobozz

    frobozz Subscriber

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  17. robz

    robz Member

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    PM2A Manual Request

    I'm looking for a pdf of the Beseler PM2A manual. If anyone could email me a copy I'd appreciate it very much.
     
  18. Rogerio

    Rogerio Member

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