Warning: Stupid question about printing ...

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by rince, Nov 8, 2011.

  1. rince

    rince Subscriber

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    So I started to take my first insecure steps in the darkroom over the last few weeks and starting to get something that looks almost like a print... I am using dectol as paper developer and Ilford Multigrade RC paper (perl) and to me all those prints look like they have a greenish cast to them. So my big question now is, if there is a developer that will shift the greenish tint more towards black and if this is not possible, I guess I would prefer a warmer tone.
    I know I am probably having it all wrong and I am sorry for maybe mixing things up and not understanding certain relations properly.
     
  2. ROL

    ROL Member

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    Dektol is well known for imparting a slight green-ish cast to prints, though not very noticeable except under strong light. It can be neutralized (or shifted to a slight, cold, blue/black) with selenium toning, if pulled before obvious color shift occurs. The "obvious" color shifting characteristics will vary with paper manufacturers, but will normally take cold tone papers to a warmer (sometimes reddish) tone as it continues to completion.

    Oh, and one other thing. That was far from being a stupid question. Try harder next time.:wink:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2011
  3. mwdake

    mwdake Member

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    What ratio did you mix your working solution?
    You could try mixing at 1:3 or add a little 10% potassium bromide solution.
     
  4. rince

    rince Subscriber

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    @ROL:Good so your answers indicate I am not doing something completely wrong, maybe just slightly :wink:
    I am not sure if I am ready for toning yet, so if there is a different developer I would feel more inclined to start with that.

    @mwdake:If I add potassium bromide, I assume this will warm up my image slightly is that correct? I will give it a try, thank you !
     
  5. mwdake

    mwdake Member

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    You did not indicate how you mixed.
    You may find that increasing your dilution to 1:3 or even 1:4 might give you the tone you are looking for.
    But, adding about 5-10 ml of a 10% Potassium bromide solution per liter of working developer solution will warm the tone some.
     
  6. winger

    winger Subscriber

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    If you want to use a different developer, try Ilford multigrade developer. I use it 'cause I like mixing from liquids (easier math and faster to mix).
     
  7. Lopaka

    Lopaka Member

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    Ilford warmtone developer is also worth trying.

    Bob
     
  8. rince

    rince Subscriber

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    @mwdake: Sorry , I use 1:2 dilution at the moment. I will try a higher dilution as well as adding the potassium bromide. Thank you for your detailed recommendation.

    @winger: Thank you for your recommendation. I will see if a different dilution helps me as suggested by mwdake, but otherwise will see if the multigrade developer works better for me. You are definitely right that liquid developer is much more convenient.

    @Lopaka: Thank you for your recommendation. I will try and find some images developed with the warm tone developer and see if I will like it.
     
  9. AlanC

    AlanC Member

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    Rince,
    I made some prints yesterday on the same paper as you used and developed them in Neutol WA at a dilution of 1+9. They have no hint whatsoever of any colour cast;just a nice neutral grey. Before complicating things by adding things to your developer, or using selenium toning, why don't you just change developer?
    Actually Ilford Multigrade is quite bullet-proof in its resistance to colour change from different developers so you won't get a warm tone out of it by using a warm-tone developer. I use NeutolWA (warm tone) because I also use it on warm tone papers, so standardise on it. It does a lovely job on Multigrade, and after using it, if not exhausted can be bottled and re-used later because at working strength it keeps very well. Handy for short sessions.

    Alan
     
  10. Rick A

    Rick A Subscriber

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    Stop using Dektol and switch to Ethol LPD developer. It's available in liquid or powder form(powder is more economical). You can adjust the tone of the print from cool to warm with the dilution of the developer. Stock to 1+1 will give a deep black, while more dilute will give warmer tone, without having to adjust developing times.
     
  11. bsdunek

    bsdunek Subscriber

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    My favorite paper developer. I like the flexability.
     
  12. George Collier

    George Collier Member

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    Second (third) Rick's suggestion. I use LPD, 1:2 from stock, 2 minutes with Ilford MG (although glossy) and get neutral results, with Ilford MGWT (warm tone) slightly browner. Both deepen with selenium toner, but the change is less obvious with MGIV.
     
  13. rince

    rince Subscriber

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    Thank you everyone for helping me out. As I wrote I am still learning and I basically started printing only 6 weeks ago, so I am very grateful for all your inside and advice. Thank you all!
     
  14. Mark Fisher

    Mark Fisher Subscriber

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    Honestly, I find that Multigrade has this tendency even with a different developer. I have standardized on Freestyle's Eco-Pro liquid developer and MG looks pretty good in it, but I always selenium tone it. It looks good without the toning, but the blacks really deepen with toning.
     
  15. piu58

    piu58 Member

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    > But, adding about 5-10 ml of a 10% Potassium bromide
    Or simply add 10% of wasted developer to the new one.