Washing ULF film and paper

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Richard Wasserman, Nov 17, 2005.

  1. Richard Wasserman

    Richard Wasserman Member

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    Ok, so how do you do it? I'm going to be shooting 7x17 (I came to my senses and gave up the idea of 12x20). I'm wondering how other people wash their film and prints. I'm thinking of making a dedicated washer, but am hoping that there is an easier way. I will need to wash multiple sheets of film at a time so I assume a tray with a siphon won't work. I'm eager to hear... Thanks

    Richard Wasserman
     
  2. David

    David Member

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    I wash both film and paper (11x14 and 8x20) in an archival washer (Summitek).
     
  3. Mike A

    Mike A Member

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    I'm shooting 11x14 exclusively and I also wash in my archival print washer that will accomodate up to 20x24.

    Richard, are you aware of this local group http://www.midwestlargeformat.com/

    Mike A
     
  4. scootermm

    scootermm Subscriber

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    richard
    I bought a 10 gallon fish tank, some sheets of plexiglass and some spare 1" PVC pipe and made a washer pretty easily.
    the 10 gallon take is a perfect size for both the 717 negs and prints.
     
  5. frednewman

    frednewman Advertiser Advertiser

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    Hi Richard - My recommendation for both processing and washing ultralarge format films would be using Jobo print drums with wither a CPP-2 or a CPA-2 processor. At the Mamouth Camera workshop (in Sandy Utah) a few years age we used the print drums and the Jobo processor. The main problem is to find a film developer the doesn't streak due to bromide drag. The 2 developers that did work were D-76 or Ilford's ID-11 and Ilford's DDX. Before my back decided 8x10 was my limit I had tried a few different developers and for the Mamouth camera workshop and the first year they processed over 200 ULF negatives in the Jobo print drums with D-76 and the negatives were very clean, even and no streaking. You can wash the negatives in the print drums. This means less chance of scratching or damaging the negatives. You only have to photo-flo the negatives after washing.

    Fred
     
  6. Mike A

    Mike A Member

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    Richard,
    Truth be told this or something simular is the route I should have gone, I could have saved a couple bills for more film.
    Mike
     
  7. Richard Wasserman

    Richard Wasserman Member

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    Sorry I didn't get back my question for a while, but I've been away from the computer. I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. I think I'm going to go the scootermm route and make a washer-the fish tank was a great idea! It'll save quite a bit of time and money over making one from scratch.

    Richard
     
  8. Daniel Grenier

    Daniel Grenier Member

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    Hi Matt. A sensible financial approach, this, but how do you know if it is efficient? By efficient, I mean does it truly wash the print in an archival manner as opposed to just swirling fixer around and around and never really washing the prints? Have you done tests for residual hypo? What is your water flow (in & out) ? Is it top/bottom, top/top etc ?

    I'm curious as I, too, need a larger print & neg washer but water flow is crucial to make a true archival washer.
     
  9. Richard Wasserman

    Richard Wasserman Member

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    Daniel,
    What I am thinking of doing is making a version of the old East Street Gallery washers where the washer has a false bottom that the water enters under and is admitted into the main body of the washer through a row of small holes under each compartment between permanantly installed dividers. Does this make sense to you ? What I am trying to say is that the water enters each compartment through a series of small holes and then flows out the top of the washer. This is a fairly simple design that with a little care in the design and fabrication can work quite well. Testing is called for of course.

    Richard