Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by TheFlyingCamera, Sep 1, 2005.
Has anyone here used WD2D+ for stand development? What dilution do you use?
Time to resurrect this. Anyone tried it?
I love WD2D+, but I never thought of it for SD. Interesting thought. I was under the impression (wrongly?) that with a pyrogallic acid dev it had to be used with frequent agitation to prevent streaking and/or uneven devving.
I know some folks here use catechol (pyrocat) for stand dev, but how much of a different critter is that stuff?
Not sure, really. I was just wondering about it earlier when I was working on developing film.
I ended up going down the Pyrocat HD road and never got around to trying out the WD2D kit I bought. Gosh, this is a 2 year old thread!
Flying, IDK about SD, but Tri-X loves WD2D+. IIRC, WD2D+ calls for frequent agitation, along the lines of PMK, but I don't have my notes with me. My mind can't keep up with all that (built for comfort, not for speed) and I just did the every 30 sec routine; TX came out fine! Actually, the firts roll I did was from a wedding, 120TX, and the tux looks black, the gown looks white, but with detail. I will be using that kit again! Give 'er a go, I think you'll like it.
I'm down a different path now... Ilford FP4+/HP5+ or (mostly now) Fomapan 200, in Pyrocat HD. I do mine in a Jobo 99% of the time, and I'm printing platinum (see my gallery here for examples). I'm well acquainted with the benefits of pyro processing, for silver as well as pt/pd. I've actually got a giant portfolio of silver stuff I need to print that I shot 2 1/4 and developed in PMK. It would be a great benefit for other folks coming along to hear about WD2D+ as a developer, as it doesn't get much press, between the old standbys of PMK and the current high visibility of Pyrocat HD and siblings. I'm happy enough now with Pyrocat HD though that I'm not looking to change soon.
I use WD2D original formula and brush development. Works fantastic. But brush is also a constant agitation which seems to be the requirement with this pyro metol developer. I started with pyrocat hd but I like the stain of wimberly's formula somewhat better. But both are great developers.
I attended one of John Wimberley's workshops last summer. I used roll film with gentle, frequent agitation as directed in the data sheets accompanying WD2D+. Film came out nice and even, nice and sharp, nicely stained.
John himself uses constant gentle agitation in trays for sheet film.
This is a very good, proven developer. (Don't just take my word for it, try to see some of John's prints!) I'd suggest that if you want to find out if it works for stand development, that you give it a try with a roll/sheet of test film. That way, you'll know.
As someone said in the posts above, a pyro/metol developer may deliver streaks unless agitated frequently. I have used PMK with reduced frequency of agitation with no trouble. This was by no means stand development, however. More like on the minute instead of on the 30 seconds.
Pyrogallol differs by 1 OH group from catechol and hydroquinone, and hydroquinone differs from catechol in the placement of one OH group around the benzene ring. All three give stain, each of different color, when used in developers with little or no sulfite. Pyrogallol is least sensitive to sulfite content of the three. All three are tanning agents as well, producing the familiar relief image which has some edge effects due to refraction.
1.) John is great. He will answer emails from complete nobodies in attempts to get some aspect of WD2D+ under control. Those of you in the bay area, go to the K&S store in Palo Alto. There is a Wimberley print hung at the bottom of the stairs going up to the darkroom supply area. Naaaahce!
2.) Agitation is 15 seconds out of every 30. A lot, not suited to the nights when I want to agitate once every minute, three inversions, but sometimes you make the sacrifice.
3.) I did some HP5+ 2x3 sheets in this the other week. I generally am not impresed with HP5+ but all I can say is... WOW! The tonal range is such that I am going to be challenged pulling it all together on a piece of printing paper.
4.) If you like it with 400 speed film, wait till you see it on 100-125 speed film.
tim in san jose
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