Who's still using Efke 8x10 or larger? Banding issues?

Discussion in 'Large Format Cameras and Accessories' started by gbenaim, Dec 8, 2008.

  1. gbenaim

    gbenaim Member

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    Hi all,

    I'm thinking of getting some efke/adox in 8x10, as I really like the look of it in 5x7 and need to switch films anyway (bad experience w foma). Anyway, was just curious if people have gone back to using this film in large formats, and whether the banding issues that caused many to leave it have been resolved. Thanks,

    GB
     
  2. Robert Hall

    Robert Hall Subscriber

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    I've not had any issues in 12x20
     
  3. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Never stopped for 10x8,haven't heard of anyone else having a problem for quite a long time. I started using Adox films around the early 70's and haven't had a problem yet,

    Ian
     
  4. Robert Hall

    Robert Hall Subscriber

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    That long? wow!
     
  5. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Actually I began to use it before I went to MF, then LF. The quality from Adox KB14 (the 14 was the DIN speed, it's now called KB25) in a good 35mm camera with a superb lens and a good tripod, and of course the right developer, is outstanding. But the films were a lot softer back then and far more prone to processing issues.

    Over the years I've kept using it occasionally for MF and now for 5x4 & 10x8, it's my main film for 10x8 although I still have a box of Forte 200 left. I guess they weren't available in the US until quite recently.

    Ian
     
  6. Robert Hall

    Robert Hall Subscriber

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    I have 4 different 12x20 films and have used a box of the Efke split between images and masks. It behaves just a any good film would. Good density and good exposure qualities. (ie, it exposes how I expect it to :wink:

    Thanks Ian
     
  7. scootermm

    scootermm Subscriber

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    Love it in 12x20 and before that loved it in 7x17 and 8x10.
     
  8. gbenaim

    gbenaim Member

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    How do you all develop it? I've been doing regular tray shuffling.
     
  9. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    The emulsion is quite fragile as it's not as prehardened as other films so I wouldn't shuffling, if you mean more than one sheet at a time. I dish process mine singly, and use Pyrocat 2+2+100 to keep the dev time reasonably short.

    Ian
     
  10. RobertP

    RobertP Subscriber

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    I use it as my main film, PL50 and PL100 in 8x20 and 12x20. I brush develop with no scratches at all. Yes it takes more time than shuffling but its worth it so as not to scratch it... beautiful film.
     
  11. 2F/2F

    2F/2F Member

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    I am beginning to mess with the 25-speed Efke in a 12x20 super wide angle pinhole. I have exposed and developed about five sheets so far and have no problems with banding. I have enjoyed the film in 4x5, but had never tried anything larger till recently. The biggest problems I have so far are that reciprocity loss is very bad, the film is very flat with recommended times, and that it gets pinholes and scrapes so easily. I developed the sheets in a Simma Color rotary print tube on a Jobo manual roller base at about half the RPMs I use with the Jobo Expert Drum. I reverse direction every 30 seconds.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 8, 2008
  12. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    I've found that handling the films needs extra care, all chemistry must be within a degree or so Centigrade, including the wash water, don't use a strong stop bath. For 10x8 there's far less chance of scratches with dish processing single sheet at a time, it's too easy to accidentally get a scratch unloading wet film from a drum.

    Modern EFKE films are slightly better hardened than they were, I used to add a hardener to the developer just prior to processing and that made a substantial difference, and I also tried a hardening stop bath, that worked as well. They just need that extra vigilance while handling wet and the resulting prints are well worth the effort.

    Ian
     
  13. gbenaim

    gbenaim Member

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    Robert, is there any reason to use the 50 in addition to the 100, are they very different? I've actually had good luch shuffling in 5x7, we'll se w 8x10.
     
  14. mikebarger

    mikebarger Subscriber

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    If you haven't been to Robert's site, you should.

    In the new work section, the industrial prints, those may be the BEST looking bricks I've ever seen printed.

    Outstanding work Robert.

    Sorry, for the off topic post.

    Mike
     
  15. RobertP

    RobertP Subscriber

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    The 50 has a different tonal range than 100 which I find really appealing. Plus its reciprocity is much like that of tmax 400 as far as times go. The 50 is not as fexible as the 100 if you are comparing film curves and I have to reduce my development times by as much as 30% for the 50 in comparison to the 100. This is with both films shot at box speed. There is an 8x20 nude in my gallery shot with the 50. I've only been using the 50 in the last year but the more I use it the more I like it. Beautiful negs. I brush develop with pyro.
     
  16. Jim Fitzgerald

    Jim Fitzgerald Member

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    I've used Efke-25 in 4x5 and I develop it in Pyrocat-HD on hangars in tanks and have never had a problem. Can do 4-5 at a time. I do my 11x14 and 8x20 one at a time in trays. I've only processed the PL-100 in 8x20 so far and no developing problems only operator error. Nice film. Need to get some 8x10.

    Jim
     
  17. Robert Hall

    Robert Hall Subscriber

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    I have had a scratch or 2 when doing them in trays which is why I like the jobo so well for the larger negs. I do run the temps a little higher, about 74F to do the processing which may add to the softness of the emulsion. Once it had dried, however, I have not had any trouble with scratches.
     
  18. Frank Szabo

    Frank Szabo Member

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    Been using Efke Ortho 25 8X10 - yep, soft stuff, quit tray developing when I found the Xray processor in NDT's area at work does an excellent job for me. Never a banding problem or any other ills that I didn't cause to begin with.

    I'll probably continue using this in the large format due to its sharpness, not having to deal with light's red component; ie, less of the spectrum for the lens to focus, therefore, sharper photos.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 9, 2008
  19. Mahler_one

    Mahler_one Member

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    Ian: Might you provide some guidance as to time and temperature factors for your Pryocat developing with the Efke film? I use a Jobo with the expert tanks so some interpolation will obviously be in order.

    Do you think that the "look" of prints made with the Efke film is sufficiently "different" or "better" then those made from, for example, TMax 400, so as to be worth any added effort to use the Efke? Indeed, at a minimum one sacrifices some speed. I suspect the hardening effects of the Pyrocat solve(s) the issue(s) of the more fragile emulsion.

    Thanks.

    Ed
     
  20. gbenaim

    gbenaim Member

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    I'd love to see more than what's on the gallery, what's the address though?
     
  21. Scott Peters

    Scott Peters Member

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    Efke 7x17 tray developed by inspection with pyro mc. No issues with banding or scratching...check website..
     
  22. gbenaim

    gbenaim Member

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    Emulsion peeling

    I'm having a weird problem w efke. I hardly get any scratches, but some sheets have the edges of the emulsion peel off a little. I find the little bits in the fixer tray, fwiw. Any ideas?

    GB
     
  23. coriana6jp

    coriana6jp Member

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    Its not my main film, but I use it occasionally in both 4x5 & 8x10. I had problems with scratches when I was try processing. (Sorry I am clutz at try processing),. As soon as i switched to Jobo Expert tanks the problem went away. With careful handling I you wont have problems. My problem was due to the way I was processing, as I said I am a clutz.

    Gary