WTB: Hasselblad A12 backs

Discussion in '[Classifieds] Want to Buy' started by Myxine, Nov 28, 2013.

  1. Myxine

    Myxine Subscriber

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    Hi there,

    I'd like to buy 2 or 3 Hasselblad A12 backs for my recently acquired (again) 500c/m. If you have one (or a few) in good condition that works as it should, and you wouldn't miss too much, please shoot me a PM.

    Also, i'm looking for extension tubes.

    Peace

    Arnaud
     
  2. Richard S. (rich815)

    Richard S. (rich815) Subscriber

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    KEH has a load of them right now.
     
  3. Myxine

    Myxine Subscriber

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    Thanks, i had browsed too. I was hoping for a slightly better price though :smile:
     
  4. randyB

    randyB Member

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    Over the decades I have collected several 12/A12 backs, 5 total, which now seems like overkill as I use only 2 (low speed b&w and high speed b&w). Lately I've been using the A16 and A16S backs more. The 16S backs were dirt cheap ($20-40) and give a different way to use the Blad for creative portraits. Just my thoughts. RandyB
     
  5. mgb74

    mgb74 Subscriber

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    I understand the benefit of the A16 back (6x4.5 negative), but I don't understand the benefit of the 16S (square) back. Other than the advantage of 4 extra exposures per 120 roll.
     
  6. randyB

    randyB Member

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    The 16S backs were made primarily to make super slides for multi-media shows. The full 2x2 image slides are very impressive on the screen and the square image fit most projection screens better. Of course you can shoot any film in the 16S back it just gives you a 1 5/8" square image on 120 film. Think of it as a masked down 16 back. Just another tool for creative expression.
     
  7. Myxine

    Myxine Subscriber

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    Thanks for all the advices. I'm starting to think i should bite the bullet and shop at Keh's.
    I don't think i'm going to go for the A16 but i was thinking that maybe i could get some A24 (much cheaper) and use them with 120 film (you're supposed to loose a frame but it should work, as far as i have read. Loose a frame but pay half the price, that's a lot of film to make up for it).
    My ultimate goal is to have 3 backs that i could develop N-1, N, N+1.

    Any thoughts - advice?
     
  8. mgb74

    mgb74 Subscriber

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    Some say using a 220 back with 120 film creates a film flatness issue (the 220 film does not have backing paper through the entire roll, so the overall thickness is different). Others say it's a theoretical issue that does not have practical implications.

    BTW, a similar argument is made over backs with matching inserts vs. those with non-matching inserts.

    If I was looking to save some money, I'd buy the older C12 back before the A24. But that's just my opinion.
     
  9. Myxine

    Myxine Subscriber

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    You might be right. I should just not be so cheap anyway :smile:
     
  10. mgb74

    mgb74 Subscriber

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    Nothing wrong with trying to save a bit as long as the result meets your needs.
     
  11. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

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    The biggest practical problem with using a 220 back for 120 film is when you realize that the prize-winning, once in a lifetime shot you just took was on exposure number 16 of your 120 roll :whistling:
     
  12. Myxine

    Myxine Subscriber

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    Well, i have a Mamiya 7 as well, and i'm a master in forgetting to remove the lens cap. So that's quite possible that i'd both at the same time :D
     
  13. RalphLambrecht

    RalphLambrecht Subscriber

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    as a short cut for the Zone System try a thre-back method with three backs for N-,Nand N+in this case you can develop the N- for N-1/2 and the N+ for N+1/2. film latitude will do the rest.this worked for me, reduced the equipment cost and the weight.