xa broken :(

Discussion in '35mm Cameras and Accessories' started by Markok765, Aug 21, 2009.

  1. Markok765

    Markok765 Member

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    Hey everyone. My xa wasn't working, so I thought the batteries had gone. I bought new ones and put them in, but it is still not working.
    I even tried cleaning the contacts. Any other fixes, or is my xa dead? I don't have any other point and shoots for this trip, my only working camera now is a leica with 15mm, so I can't use slides anymore(no light meter)
    Any help?
     
  2. Jon Shiu

    Jon Shiu Subscriber

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    is the meter working, how about battery check function? Sometimes the winding interlock, or cover interlock contacts prevent the shutter from firing. I have an old xa2 that will sometimes only fire after jiggling the film advance a bit prior to pressing the shutter button.

    Jon
     
  3. Eric Rose

    Eric Rose Subscriber

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    still think it's a "professional" camera LOL. I had an XA2 that went TU on me, I took it all apart, and was unable to fix it. The problem with them is the internal circuitry, once it's gone it gone for good. Fortunately the XA's are cheap and plentiful. My advise, pick up a cheap light meter and use your Leica.
     
  4. Rol_Lei Nut

    Rol_Lei Nut Member

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    A very common problem on the XA is the shutter release button contact. If the battery check is working then that's a likely candidate.

    Taking off the release button and cleaning the contacts underneath is a (careful) DIY job.
     
  5. Markok765

    Markok765 Member

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    Battery check isn't even working :sad:
     
  6. Q.G.

    Q.G. Inactive

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    Before opening the camera, or giving up on it, try yet other batteries.
    There's always a possibility that a battery is dead, even with 'fresh' ones.
     
  7. Steve Smith

    Steve Smith Subscriber

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    It's most likely the battery contacts then. Dirty contacts amount to 99% of the problems with these cameras.


    Steve.
     
  8. Nicholas Lindan

    Nicholas Lindan Advertiser Advertiser

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    You can take slides without a light meter. Just get one of the exposure guides floating about on the internet or buy a Black-Cat guide.

    If you are only shooting at one ASA then a 3x5 index card will hold all the exposure information you will need in nice convenient form.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 22, 2009
  9. Markok765

    Markok765 Member

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    I tried cleaning the battery contacts as well. In addition, my eyes are generally more accurate than a exposure chart.
    I'll try using a dslr as a lightmeter for slide film.
     
  10. elekm

    elekm Member

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    The XA is fully automatic, so how will you know if the exposure is accurate when trying to use a DSLR as a light meter?
     
  11. Markok765

    Markok765 Member

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    No, no. I'm using the dslr as a light meter for my last remaining camera, a fully manual leica rf.
     
  12. Leighgion

    Leighgion Member

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    You won't know if your XA is dead for sure until a qualified tech can handle it. I can't think of any other user-end things to try that you haven't already.
     
  13. John Koehrer

    John Koehrer Subscriber

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    He won't but his eyes are more accurate anyway.
     
  14. Jon Shiu

    Jon Shiu Subscriber

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    The xa is an aperture priority camera where you select the aperture and the shutter speed shows in the viewfinder. You can also change the film speed setting to alter exposure and there is a backlight compensation setting.

    Jon
     
  15. Q.G.

    Q.G. Inactive

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    But none of that will work when none of that works... :wink:

    So even when you are using a separate meter, there is no way to set the XA to expose correctly.
     
  16. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    marko

    is it the whole camera that is dead ? or just the meter?
    if the meter is dead you can easily do a reading like you do for your rf
    but if the shutter isn't working, from what i understand it is run by a magnet/s,
    and once they go you are outta luck. maybe you can bring/send your camera
    to a repair person who can tell you exactly what might be wrong. estimates
    are sometimes free ...
     
  17. ann

    ann Subscriber

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    there is always the old fashion method "sunny 16 "
     
  18. Markok765

    Markok765 Member

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    Nothings working at all, no signs of 'life'

    Q.G., I was using the XA as a lightmeter for my RF
     
  19. John Hermanson

    John Hermanson Member

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    First establish that batteries are good. If you get a tone and LED on battery check, that's a good place to start. Will it fire when the back is open (loading mode)? When you fire it in self timer, do you hear a VERY faint click at the end when the shutter should fire? If so, camera has oily magnet. When an XA or XA2 break, they're not "gone for good". John, www.zuiko.com
     
  20. Steve Roberts

    Steve Roberts Member

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    Silly question, but someone has to ask it - have you put the replacement batteries in the the right way around?

    Steve
     
  21. Markok765

    Markok765 Member

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    I don't hear anything at all, and yes, I put the batteries in correctly.
    Guess its back to my (almost as good) olympus stylus epic. It also has a nice spotmeter.
     
  22. IloveTLRs

    IloveTLRs Member

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    Did you put in LR44 or SR44 batteries? It can make a difference.

    Unfortunately XAs can be quite fragile.
    Fortunately as someone else said, they're plentiful and cheap.
     
  23. elekm

    elekm Member

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    First off, I think the XA might be toast. Or it might need to be disassembled and cleaned thoroughly.

    At the least, I think it will require some disassembly for a correct diagnosis.

    Second, go out and buy a used light meter. There is no need to use a second camera as a light meter.
     
  24. abstraxion

    abstraxion Member

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    Unfortunately, XAs aren't really that cheap anymore if they're in good condition. If you're looking for a lightmeter cam, I'd also recommend the Minox 35 GT. I picked mine up in like new condition with a nice Sunpak flash and all the Skylight/ND proprietary filters for under $30. It's got a nice little match needle aperture priority (but scale focus) system.