That is interesting rjbuzzclick, the whole matter is thus solved...until you need to use a tripod!
But, nevertheless, it is answers like these which cause one to think further. Thank you all. - David Lyga
This plate also must be loosened and turned to get to the rewind button, which isn't a big deal. The original plate I saw had a hole for this, but I decided not to put one in as it would have to have been relatively large and very close to the edge of the plate to compensate for the thickness of the metal.
Before I built this plate, I used an old flash L-bracket as is, and that worked just as well to hold the door closed, but didn't fit the camera body as cleanly. I've also heard that the accessory motor winder for the camera will hold the door closed too, but obviously that would add bulk and noise.
Not the most elegant solution, but it does work.
I kept a power winder on mine at all times. I put a little felt dot on the bottom of the door so the winder would keep the door shut. Worked great.
Bob B, now I fully understand what you are saying and it really is a good solution, like the kind I wanted. It's a bit like my grandmother's old canning jars where the lid stays put when you pull the wire over the top. Thank you. But for a full 24 hours (!) my duct tape is still intact and shows NO signs of loosening or stretching. I am really surprised since the tension on the spring is so strong. - David Lyga
a picture to give a clearer idea
Thanks all. Still, after two tortuous weeks for the duct tape, it is still holding mightily.This was a solution I had no right to either expect nor respect.
But I do like the theory of using either the small screw nearby to build a bracket upon or using the tripod socket to hold a larger piece of metal extending onto the battery compartment. I do not use power winders but that was a solution (with the felt holding the compartment closed. - David Lyga
Well, I finally got around to replacing the battery door on my AL-1. Bought the door here:
Followed these instructions for the most part:
The biggest issues were (1) the freakin' hinge was a pain in the backside to remove and (2) the new door's hinge slot was too thick so it wouldn't align properly to put the hinge back in. I basically pried the metal hinge out with an XACTO blade, taking some of the plastic with it. I then shaved the outside of the new door's hinge plastic so that I could align the holes and reinsert the metal hinge.
At any rate, it's done and it works.