Okay, but how can you tell? Once it's programmed, do you switch the silent mode on and off just like you would on a black or rhodium Hex?
Here's some street photos from my first roll...
Shot with some Fuji Superia Xtra 400 24exp. Surprised how well the Superia did. These were all taken around West Edmonton Mall.
So, I have an issue with my Hexar...
I've long needed to do slight levels adjustments to scans of my negatives (especially B&W). But they were usually slight and not on almost every photo. This was with my Nikon's and my Yashica. I knew this because of results from index, contact, and regular prints from the lab.
Fast forward to the Hexar. Colour is generally ok, but B&W (including C-41 Ilford XP2) seems to come up flat, moreso than with my SLR/TLR images, which leads me to wonder if it is the photos from the camera itself. I don't have optical printing equipment so I can't try that unfortunately to be sure.
Yesterday, I began processing my own B&W film. The flatness is even more exaggerated now. Both rolls were HP5, one with a Nikon F90, the other with a Konica Hexar. I noticed early that the Hex seems a bit overexposed to me, maybe because I'm used to slight underexposure, so I try and make sure to set the camera to -0.3 each time. I did that for the Hexar roll I processed myself for most of the roll. The F90 roll has a bit of flatness, which I sort of expect, as that is due to the scanner, but not to the same degree as my Hex roll. The Hexar roll, 95%+ of the frames come out flat and with lots of middle grey. I know it was a bright sunny day, in the winter, so lots of snow, ice...but wouldn't that generally trick the camera into underexposure? Should I try -0.6 or -1.0?
Maybe this is better suited for the B&W processing forum? It could be my darkroom processing. It is worse than on the film I've got lab processed. I'm using DD-X.