The op didn't say what kind of lens it was. It could be pre AI lens. In such case it could be the cause of the problem.
Originally Posted by BMbikerider
Sounds like your 35mm lens is either pre-ai or has a problem with the how the aperture ring engages the AI follower. Some cameras like the F4 have the AI follower on a hinge so you can flip it out to allow mounting pre-ai lenses and stopped down metering. I know the FE2 and most likely the FE has a fixed follower and you should not mount pre-ai lenses.
The Nikon FE hasn't got an "averaging metering system" but the standard Nikon centre weighted system, that is, 60% weighted to the central doughnut and 40% from the rest of the screen.
Originally Posted by BMbikerider
The FE has the flip up tab, if its flipped up with with an AI lens it would read 1000th @ f22 as posted above. Not sure why its stiff.
Hi, I realize I am a new member here so I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea. I have been busy this past weekend or else I would have done a retest! I am very appreciative of everyone chiming in with their theories. Let me try to answer as many questions as I can!
- Yes, I will try the test again with your suggestions - same batteries in both cameras and preferably a white wall that fills up the entire frame.
- Lenses: as far as I can tell, here are the stats of the lenses
- 50mm f/1.8 Nikkor, Type Ai, made 1978-1982
- 35mm f/2.0, Type K, made 1975-1977
- I cannot see that the 35mm is damaged at all or anything looks out of place. Of course, I am not an expert on these lenses. I will say that nothing looks GLARINGLY wrong such as chips, dents, bends etc.
- Despite both cameras being Nikon FE's (not FE2 or FM, etc), if I look into the lens coupling, they look slightly different. I am not sure why or how this is possible. I will attach a picture tonight.
- Why would a Pre-AI lens cause a problem? I bought the FE because I read it was one of the most reliable film SLR's and it's advantage over it's newer counterparts was that it could accept ALL lenses.
- I am very careful putting on the 35mm lens on my second FE body. I can't see any issue with me using the wrong angle or too much or too little force or cramming anything in. It's VERY stiff though when attaching and turning the aperture wheel takes two hands, one to steady the lens body and one to twist the ring. Certainly very disconcerting.
Thanks again for everyone's help. I secretly hope it's an issue with it being Pre-Ai ... can someone explain that to me?
I didn't know until now but Nikon type K lenses are the latest of Pre AI lenses. Any yes they were made from 75-77. To use these lenses on the FE you will have to flip the AI coupling out of the way and use stop down metering. Not flipping the coupling out of the way you can damage the camera by mounting the lens. My guess that there is some differences in tolerance between the 2 cameras and thus one move the coupling the other less but both gave you wrong meter reading. Actually both should be tight because the lens hit the coupling.
I have no idea what an AI coupling is so I will investigate as soon as I get home from work!
That was my take on it... back from post #4 in this thread;-)
Fstop said there is a flip out ai follower on the FE and from what you say the 35mm lens is pre-AI and won't have the AI cutout on the aperture ring of the lens , which is where the AI follower on the camera engages the aperture ring on the lens. The follower moves around the circumference of the lens mount and gives the camera aperture info it needs for metering. If you don't know about the flip out follower then you are probably mounting the pre-AI lens incorrectly with the follower in it's normal position.
See the pic of my F4 with the follower in it's normal position for AI lenses:
For pre-Ai lenses the follower should be flipped out. I don't know how it's done on the FE but on the F4 there is a small pin on the follower that you depress allowing it to be flipped out:
Here is an AI lens that has the cutout for the AI follower just below the coupling prong (metal bit that is sticking up):
And a pre-AI without the cutout. Note the smooth aperture ring base with no notches:
Here is a picture of the pre-AI lens on the F4 with the follower flipped out. Note the lens is not binding because the follower is moved out of the way:
And here is a picture of the Ai lens being mounted with the follower up in its normal position for AI lenses. Note the AI cutout on the lens. In this pic I haven't fully rotated the lens yet to lock it but when I do the notch in the lens engages the follower and rotates it.
The non-flip out AI follower on the FE2 doesn't allow for use of pre-AI lenses without modification:
Just for good measure this is how the meter coupling works on the non-AI cameras:
Well, post #2 was mine, and was a failed attempt at humor, until more info was brought to light by the OP. Having worked on a number of camera meters, I've see the wide-open metering can differ from the reading obtained by stop-down, among the 2 lens styles. This points to a weak meter cell on the camera with such a big variation from all other instruments used in the comparison tests.
I maintain the same position now as in the corny analogy; that camera 1 and meter 1 were out of agreement by a full stop. At that point the introduction of a second camera would only confound the finding of the culprit as to why camera 1 and meter 1 were a stop apart. So far, not a single piece of gear mentioned ended up close enough in agreement to know where the accuracy was. Chasing down the truly accurate meter is one of the toughest things I've ever done. But it needs to be found in these kinds of tests. One of those camera meters or one of the hand-helds is the truest, and emerges as the standard.