It's a little rude/gruff because it's lacking sympathy is general advice rather than technical support, but certainly not "the most rude", and certainly not clueless; I used to shoot a lot of slide film in the 1990's, used Nikon matrix metering for it, with velvia and fujichome100 and kodachrome. It requires care in exposure as it's the least forgiving of film types. Tri-x or color negative can handle over/under exposure very well. All the disposable and cheap cameras use negative film for this reason. Slide film not tolerating of exposure error is sort of like tmax film not tolerating processing error. It's awesome when it's done well. If you are inconsistent, it's not going to be a pleasant choice.
Originally Posted by Wolfeye
I'd also suggest as Wolfeye has doing it yourself. You will get color shifts by not processing it by directions at the very least, and it'll be unknown what you get for an image. I've developed plenty of E6 and it's not hard.
^why didn't you say it like that in the first place? Wolfeye was hardly out of line finding offense with your first post. You've obviously explained why you commented as such, but remember we've a newby in our midst and he/she is looking for pragmatic help to a situation, not directives on how to prevent a future occurrence of said situation....
[QUOTE=Kruger;1529879]@ thegman, thanks for the explanation. But then why do they recommend 4 stops to this other guy which had the same problem (100iso exposed at 1000 iso). What do you think ?
100 to 1000 is "3 and bit stops", exactly three stops is ISO 800, and exactly 4 stops is ISO 1600. Whether you do a 3 stop push or a 4 stop push depends on whether you'd rather a little under exposed, or a little over exposed. It's really just a matter of preference. Personally I'd go 3 simply because it's less of a push, and also slide film is often more comfortable with under exposure rather than over.
But it really is just a personal choice.
"more comfortable with under exposure"?
yeah, 3+ stops is plenty underexposed (I wouldn't be worried about highlights) and a 3 stop push isn't gonna help this roll.Let's be realistic.
Well, I would not expect wonders, but it's either process it, or don't process it. I think for the cost of developing a roll, it's worth the experiment.
Originally Posted by wildbill
And as I mentioned earlier... this person may have "bracketed" more than they think.
Originally Posted by thegman
In my professional slide days this would fall into three categories--
--oh well you loose some.
--can it be "re-shot"
-- push and pray if it's Newsworthy.
I not only did commercial work for years on transparency film, I worked for a year photographing breaking news on E-6 film of all sorts from 100 speed to 400 and 1600 pushable film that was nasty ugly stuff for high school sports.
Thank you so much to all of you for your feedback and help. I'll reply to everyone individually but of course anybody can take part ! Thanks again everyone for your time !
@Wolfeye: thanks for your support and input. However I am in India for only 1 more month and hopefully I'll get free time to travel one week so in the end only 3 weeks starting tomorrow, so I can't find the kit here and do it here, it will end up being too complicated and I won't have the time to look into it unfortunately. But it's a good thing you advised me to do that since I didn't know you can do it yourself ! Is it as simple as developing black and white ? If you can do it with a 20 dollars kit why is it so hard to find labs that do it (at least here it is) ?
The guy seems to be recommended by many, i saw his name on forums in the region, on the lomography site and a guy in a store recommended him too. It seems like a passionate that makes a living out of it or at least some extra money. I think he will still do a better job than me.
This is what he replied to me after my enquiry ("rs" are rupees):
"100 iso film shoot to 1000 iso it will cost rs 250 + 200 push = 450 rs will be processing charges for this film
aperture and shutter speed is not a matter
push processing is connected with only with the iso of film and which iso it is shoot"
Does he sound like he knows what he is doing ? It's the best I've got here. I'm surprised he said the shutter speed and aperture don't influence the result. Correct me if I'm wrong but they control the amount of light info that comes on the film and therefore the result, if there is not enough info there is no photo right ?
@vpwphoto: Yeah I know it's a big mistake. I got used to the comfort of digital where you see instantly the result and only then if you see something suspect you change settings. But with the analog camera I thought I was all set, I forgot I had played with the knob. The trauma from this experience will surely impregnate my mind with that check from now on I'm sure, I just would've preferred it to happen on some random test pictures of the garden, not pictures of Pondicherry lol ! Wouldn't 1 stop not show anything at all or barely anything ?
@TheFlyingCamera: That's what I am afraid of unfortunately. But as you can see above, the processing won't be very expensive and therefore it's worth a shot I think, you never know, maybe I'll be lucky and will have either dark images or funky photos we'll see. I'll be very forgiving on the results just as long as I get something. After all I see it like cooking, sometimes you mess up the recipe and end up enhancing it or even inventing a new one !
@jp498: Thanks, I would like to do it myself but at this point in time I won't have the time, I barely have time to go out and shoot. But processing B&W and now slide films is definitely something I would love to get into, especially slide film since you can then just easily scan the roll and you're done, with negative film I'm not sure how to scan it cause if you scan it you will only have the negative in the JPEG or TIFF file, how do you then transform that into colours I have to figure out. Also are B&W films negatives or slide like films where you can see the picture in a small version ? Finally, do you know a good source of information and walkthrough for slide processing ? Thanks.
@zsas: thanks for your support :)
@thegman: I understand now, thanks ! Indeed I think 3 stops would be better than 4. How about 2 stops ? It would reduce the damage of the pushing but wouldn't it provide only black images ?
@wildbill & thegman : exactly, as the price quoted above indicates, it's not expensive and I'm willing to waste that little sum if I can take a chance and at least save something.
@vpwphoto: I could technically go there again but I don't know if I'll have the time and it's a whole week end with 7hours of bus on Indian roads lol. Also If I have a week end with no plans it would be better to try to find another areas to visit. But we'll see, maybe nothing interesting will be in range and I won't feel like partying and I'll go again, by that time I'll maybe have the roll already processed. What do you mean by the fact that I "may have "bracketed" more than [I] think" ? what is bracketeering ?
Thanks again for all the inputs everyone, very interesting conversation, let's hope I'll have some pictures to show you !
Sorry if I'm a bit too late to add some advice here but I'll offer you this:
A 3 even a four stop push isn't horrible, in fact it's doable. Ektachrome isn't completely unforgiving. I'd start by placing the film in a plastic bag in your refrigerator until you can get your own E-6 kit from an outfit in the U.S. like B&Hphotovideo.com in New York. Or send it to a Kodak Q lab for processing. With a large note that asks them to SNIP test the first several frames with a 3 stop push and ask them to determine how to process the remainder of the roll based on the snip test and that you shot it at ISO 1000 not 100. That should help out a lot.
Worse comes to worse, you'll probably notice some muddy exposures, a significant amount of grain from the lengthing of the processing, but you might actually find some interesting results.
Also, once your film is processed into the ballpark that the snip tests determine would be about right, leave the film unmounted and then if you have some nice shots that need fixing, have the same lab use some kodak duplicating transparency film to make some additional exposures to improve on the exposures they already have on the originals and boost up some of the detail, help the contrast and maybe give your shadows less muddy appearance.
Take care and good luck. Don't be too hard on yourself. It happens to the best of us you know.
But if it was say Ektar 100 or a 100 ISO color negative film then it's actually worst because color negative film has no tolerance for underexposure.
Originally Posted by jp498
Has the film been processed yet? If not I'm happy to suggest something that will possibly give you an extremely good result by modifying the E-6 process chemically, feel free to private message me.
-Steve @ The Lighthouse Lab.