The nice thing about the FE that cant be possible in an FM is the Auto exposure works way beyond the 8 second max exposure and sets the time to the analog time it thinks it should be instead of hard stops. If it needs 5 or 5.3 seconds, it uses that instead of 4 or 8. So that would be a benefit in my eyes.
B does not use batteries if you are into long manually held exposures.
The FEs exposure memory lock is also a very useful feature to have; meter, lock, recompose.
Better? for better I hear nicer male jewelery or pretty girls.
The EM, FG and FG-20 are ok cameras their kit E lens ok when you strip it to relube, they will take hard use my three FG have dinked metal showing and split plastic panels held together with glue.
That's why the FE/FM series have a nice holder on the back for the end box bit. You'll only need to look at the back to find out which is which.Quote:
My only concern in having two of the same body is that the OP may wind up confusing which camera holds the Ilford Pan F and which holds the Delta 3200 -- or which holds the color or the B/W film.
Well the FM3s also have a transparency in the back door and their back will swap into FM2ns...
But fair dos they all have ISO selectors and 64 is different from 3200 so tearing up boxes is only useful for film type
Even FG has an ISO selector and film box tab holder...
for me the FE/FE2/FM3a needle instrument ist the ideal system, especially when working in manual mode. You can immediately see the time the camera would choose and with the green marker the time you have set on the dial (and the f-stop off course). To make an over- or under-correction is much faster than with the exposure correction dial.
The FE needle system is nice, albeit, hard to see in the dark (no worse than the LCD on the F3)
I wish Nikon did the LED next to the shutter speed method