I have the offer of an F3 with standard DE-2 prism. The camera and head are mint and it will come boxed etc.
Here is where I need advice please:-
The meter is 100% with my Gossen hand held but, the meter read out is just a little bit off in that the figure 5 is missing the upright part and the 2 is the same. I'm sure that it would be easy enough to get used to but is it an indication of:
1. The LCD is dying?
2. The LCD is fine but tired and will go on 'forever'?
3. The batteries are low (perhaps)?
4. Or is something entirely different?
Any advice would be gratefully received.
I have had other LCD devices display the same type of problem. Its my experience that the LCD is usually not repairable and one can't tell what will happen to the still functioning parts of the LCD display in the future. Did you contact Nikon as they would be your best source?-Dick
Most likely is the connector strip of the LCD but other causes are also possible.
I would rather buy one with full function even if not cosmetically mint.
Way back when, at the time the F3 came out, Nikon recommended the lcd panel be replaced at some interval I don't remember anymore. As I recall it was something like 5 years give or take. I never bothered, as initial interval and a many more came and went on my camera, and the LCD is fine.
Given that Nikon apparently intended for the panel to be replaced often, it should be an easy fix, if the part is available still. Probably worth contacting Nikon, or other repair service.
Thanks for the replies.
I think you have understood only too well what I meant! But, just to make absolutely certain, here is the problem:
Shutter speeds 1000; 125; 60; 30;15; 8 are all displayed correctly.
Shutter speeds 250 and 500 are not in that the 2 is only partly displayed and the same for the 5 and yet 125 i.e. the 1 is perfect when seen on the LCD! The 2 of 2000 also is only partly displayed. Notice, it is all the same column i.e. right next to the M/+ sign.
Could this be a fault in a single column of the LCD (so to speak) and that is all?
Appreciate your help.
PS: The meter is dead on.
I had similar problem about 1/2 year ago - anything faster than 1/30 was displayed as a mess (everything lit up).
I took a good screwdriver, carefully unscrewed the 3 top screws, lift the whole LCD assembly up, then I disassemblef it from bottom, and again put it all firmly back to it's place - and whoa, it work ever since then like new. so I think it might be a case of bad contacts.
The first 2 digits are bad. Some segments do not work. They both can display the 1 ok but not 2 or 5. It's the LCD panel problem. You just have to replace it. Otherwise the camera would still works fine even if the LCD is completely dead.
Sometimes tightening the LCD clamp by a tiny amount - to increase its pressure on the connector strip - will work. Sometimes cleaning the strip (but NOT! the LCD contacts) will work.
Easy to lose the 3 loose switch parts for the illuminator or reverse them, easy to damage the circuit connector (which is thin film) if you don't know what you're doing. It's crucial that you don't mix up the screws - the short csk must go back where it came from.
There used to be a (US I think) company that advertised a restorative liquid for connector strips but I never tried it so don't know if it works or is still available.
If Nikon service is too expensive and if they will supply the parts ask if the connector strip comes with the LCD, you need both.
It occurs to me that I haven't described this "connector strip."
Silicon rubber/carbon layered elastomer, very fine pitch contacts (about 0.01") size less than 1mm. square x maybe 10mm. in this case.
Under magnification it would look like a four-foot high sandwich.
Not easy to work with, best to use latex gloves to avoid any contamination of its surface, also true for the LCD itself.
Alistair, one of my F3 bodies does exactly what you describe. I have the vertical lines but not the horizontal lines.
I have also seen another F3 with the exact same issue.
I don't have a problem with it at all as I generally only work out exactly where the + and - signs come on, then look at the top of the camera for a quick double check.
I bought my camera new, it is I think, built in 1983/4 and it has done thousands of rolls of film.
The problem started about 5 years ago from memory, hasn't gotten worse nor better.
If the camera works alright and the price is correct, then it's your call, I don't think it will worsen overnight.