My feeling is that trying to sell any FD camera in the condition you mention is not worth the time it takes to list it or to slep to the post office. They are essentially worth nothing to very little. Unless someone needs parts no one is even going to bother. They can go to KEH and buy a working model with a return policy in really nice condition.
There's a guy up in Illinois that cla's FD's for $45 + $8 s&h. Cheap enough really and he does good work. http://www.garryscamera.com/. You can get them cla'd and try and sell them, but FD bodies are not a hot commodity unless they're T90's or F1's and even then I don't believe they're flying off the shelves in this economy. Right now the lenses are the value for the micro 4/3rd's crowd and if I personally were to spend any money whatsoever in FD it would be for the better glass. In fact, as has been mentioned over and over, a body is just a light tight container for the glass. It's really all about the glass and it's signature. Not that some features are nice to have on a body. Nowadays tho I see more benefit in a plain jane body like a FTbn then in most electronic marvels with all the features.
The unfortunate thing for alot of us owners of FD bodies, as well as 60's and 70's bodies in other lineups, is that it is getting to the point where they're just not that wanted anymore. Many buyers consistently desire the perfect looking, un-marked, un-dinged, un-brassed body even tho they can be perfect shooting cameras in good mechanical condition. So what becomes of the ugly camera child? It's getting to the point that alot of it is becoming basically drawer fill and door stops in todays digital and economic climate. That's were the bargains are.
Even if the CLA exceeds the market value of most bodies, remember that most of those bodies have not been CLA'd. With a CLA, you have a camera that should serve well for a long time. So market value isn't the last word on what to expect a camera to actually cost. Still, a CLA is fairly cheap and the purpose of the CLA is to put the camera in reliable usable condition, which is always a question mark with a machine which has not received a CLA.
Bottom line, even after a CLA, the camera's still not expensive and resale value isn't really the point.
I CLAD and use them all. It's fullish to sell them. There is some spectacular glass like the 50mm f/1.4 with the metal ring in the back.
Agreed. I have one of those 50mm 1.4 (with the metal ring :) ).
I do find that it really throws off the metering on my cameras (like it assumes the scene is much lighter than it is). Not sure if it's the camera or the lens though :(
try this one
i have also found that if you lift the mirror there is a little hole on the left of the chamber that holds the lever for the mirror governor. if you point the syringe in the little hole you can use some oil to lubricate the shutter and mirror gears at the same time. of course the more you oil, the more messy it gets. be prepared to have the cameras out of action for a little while because the residual oil does leak onto the shutter curtain. i have had to wait a few days to make sure the oil dried out a little and spread sufficiently.
be patient, you may have to repeat the steps few times and you should wait a few hours between the tries because sometimes the oil just needs time to settle. GOOD LUCK!
I live in Japan and my local junk shop gets A1 and AE1 cameras at least a couple times a month. I usually buy them for $5 apiece (which usually includes a lens), clean them up, and sell them on eBay.
The squeaky shutter/dragging mirror problem is not difficult to fix, there are a few methods on the internet on how to fix the problem if you search around. If you are looking for a simpler and more reliable FD body, pick up an FTb. I've had a couple which saw years of use and had no problems at all. They are a little clunkier than an AE1, but they are more ruggedly constructed, and will still function if the battery dies.