I would do what I've done (successfully) in similar situations, and with even contrastier scenes:
Expose for the shadow detail you want, and develop for the contrast gradient you want. In most cases I develop to what others would think of as N+1.
The adjust the printing process to match the negative. Lith printing can be a good way to keep detail in what seems to be burned-out highlights without making the shadows go utterly black.
I have tried contraction (N-) developing, but find that it gives dull and flat negatives which will only require printing on a higher grade to look even remotely interesting. So I would far rather struggle with putting a contrastu scene onto a G2 paper!
In other words I have more or less abandoned the zone system - not because it doesn't work, but because I find I get better results without it.
Oh one more thing: Use a "traditional film" (FP4+ or similar) if you want to try my way. I've tried T-max and Delta too, but they just don't work with that kind of "abuse".
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-- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist Norway |