i have been working on that same trip for a few years now.
cyanotype might be the way to go but the exposure times are so slow
unless you are using a f1 you are kind of held prisoner by your process.
that is why i have settled on using either photo photo paper in camera
to make in camera non chemical prints, or hand coated paper with store bought liquid emulsion.
you GET an image without chemicals but they are unstable. liquid light i have noticed
doesn't fade like commercial paper. i have some in my desk drawer i made over a year ago
that still look like i made them yesterday, commercial paper has turned grey sitting right next to it.
i have a tank of super saturated salt water i plan on soaking some of my prints in to stabilize them ( yeah i know wishful thinking )
but my plan is to stabilize them to last long enough for an additional exposure in the sun for an hour or 2 after being waxed.
so, eventually, like you, my plan is to be without a darkroom or the need to use one ...
probably tomorrow i will make an exposure, maybe a photogram, and test the salt water.
i doubt it will do much ...
Oooh, of interest:
I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole.
I do like cyanotypes, especialy toned with coffee or tea. Bostick-Sullivan sells a kit for doing them that works real good.
For a negative though, it makes sense to spend the $1 on a piece of film from Ilford/Arista/Foma (or more from Kodak). You just shoot less compared to 35mm or 120.
Cyanotypes aren't free either. The non-buffered paper for that costs something. Tintypes and liquid emulsion probably cost more than doing images with film.
I have seen some cyanotype kits on the market, with all the chemicals and paper etc, but its probably going to be easier for me to simply get the chemicals separately, I know that the Potassium ferricyanide is easy to get as its used a lot in art, its just the Ferric ammonium citrate (green) thats slightly harder to get it seems. I'm just going to experiment with the technique and see what happens really, it seems that if I do want a faster in camera process the easiest method is indeed film lol
I have also been told that using simple watercolour paper is fine to use for cyanotype, I might even try something really basic as my first few test prints, I also have a feeling im going to need a UV lightbox as I live in the UK lol
you might not want to use water color paper for your "negative"
it is too thick and will be a PITA to get light and uv rays to pass through.
if you are planning the cyanotype route for your negative, use the thinnest
paper you can find ... non watermarked stationary, xerox paper of some sort.
you will probably have trouble because it is recycled paper is is buffered
but there are ways to resolve that at least for the short term ...
its easy to wax ( the flickr vid i posted for you over on the lf forum )
with just a hot plate and a little wax ...
you can probably use sunlight, after all talbot was from england and he just used sunlight
to make both calotypes and salt prints .. facial tanning lamps are pretty cheap ..
just get some welding goggles :)
have fun !
I will get a mix of different papers and weights and do some test copies I think :)