Mike: Thank you for your help. I probably don't have a clue...but I don't quite understand your last sentence. Albumen requires UV. Or am I really wrong about that? My enlarger becomes very hot because I am projecting small negative images onto the larger x ray film. For the albumen printing I only use sunlight.
Sorry, I thought albumin was a silver process with the silver suspended in the egg product in lieu of gelatin. Too many alt processes swimming in my head these days, I guess.
I guess there are a lot of cheesecakes being made for albumin followers. Somehwere I read that when albumin was a popular process there would be suggestions on what to cook up with all of the surplus yolks that were a by product of the original albumin source.
I totally agree that inkjet negs have revived alt process.
Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac
However, I still think they are not as sharp as film can be. I have used lith film for enlarged negs and those are unbelievably sharp.
You can't see sharpness on a monitor, you have to see the prints.
Yep, it's needs a lot of exposure. I doubled the wattage of my enlarger bulb to 150 watts (they are typically 75 watts) and my exposures are F5.6 for almost a minute (that's for an 8x10 image with a 80mm lens from a medium format neg). So the enlarger is fairly close to the easel.
Originally Posted by claras
I'm using straight dektol (it's usually mixed 1:3 for prints) I've also using a glass neg carrier as the exposures are long and with the brighter bulb, the negative would undoubtably warp.
Mike: You want to see something disgusting...look at 12 or 15 egg yolks without the egg white and think about eating them. Kind of bothers me to do it, all those little baby chickens, but I generally toss them. Fortunately, albumen goes a long way and doesn't go bad quickly.
Davido: (Sorry about the blank post...)
A minute?! A minute?! I am using a 75mm lens. Also medium format negatives...and my exposures sometimes go on for ten minutes! What am I doing to make things harder for myself? Haven't used straight dektol, only diluted, and my light is 75 watts. Would that be enough to account for the difference? I am using Photo Warehouse film.
Claras, I would cut down on your exposure time to a couple of minutes and use stronger developer (around 3 minutes developing). Remember you are exposing for the shadow areas. It's opposite, so if you have no detail in the shadows, then you are exposing too long. The developer builds up your density (or your high-lights). So unless you have really dense original negs, two to three minutes exposure should be fine. This is also for printing an 8x10 size.