I've been using Ilford PQ 1+14. I have enough D76 on hand that I'd be willing to try your D76 1+4 and compare.
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
jim noel...what is somarkos LC-2
If you tried Googling it, you probably came up empty. Should be Soemarko.
For starters: http://www.farahmahbub.com/VirtualMa...ulasGalore.htm
Thanks...my google got hijacked by ask.com...getting it fixed now!!
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The film Herbst mentions he uses, APHS, has been discontinued, and the film Freestyle says is its replacement (Arista-II Ortho film) is "not currently available" according to Freestyle's website.
Originally Posted by M Stat
So... what film(s) are you using in this process?
I apologize for not responding sooner. I still have a dwindling supply of the old APHS film for making enlarged duplicate negatives, and I don't know how the new film will respond to pyro developer. Maybe Bob Herbst has a better answer.
I just picked up some of the Fuji MI-DUP film, 10x12 and will give it a try. I have some of the newer Freestyle Arista film and will give that a try with the LC-2 developer and see how that works as well. I will try to get back on my results.
Originally Posted by Robert Ley
I've also been using the MI-DUP and finding much easier to work with than lith film. I experimented with lith for quite a while with diluted HC-110 and LC-2 developer. Lith is a beast to tame. I was trying all different methods to keep the contrast down, including extremely dilute developer and extremely subtle agitation (including brush development). I also found that edge development was exaggerated. Of course it depends upon your image but with lot's of sky on the edge of the image, I was finding unevenness of tone a real problem.
Also, the mid-tones would begin to get quite flat at the same time.
X-ray dupe film has been much easier to work with. It's almost the opposite to lith. I've been using dektol almost straight with short development times (3 minutes). The lith were up to 18 minutes!
I've replaced my enlarger bulb to a brighter 150w bulb and use a glass carrier because of the extra heat. This is cut my times down but still around 60 seconds at 5.6.
The main way to control contrast of the negative is altering your developer strength.
The dupe film is weird to work with though, totally opposite than normal film/paper. It gets confusing at times, especially when you start dodging and burning! dodging to darken and an area!
I'm still having issues with agitation. The images I'm working with have a white background, and keeping that consistent is not easy. I've started trying brush development which hopefully will help.
Personally, I would say, stay with the x-ray dupe film.
I tried the MI-DUP film and really like the results. I will have to fine tune it with different developers. Tried it initially with formulary BW-65,but I have some Ilford multigrade that I will try next or I may mix my own D-72.
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