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mossbloom
03-03-2014, 12:54 AM
I've been trying printing a negative (out of Photoshop) onto drafting vellum, then oiling it for transluscence and contact printing it. That works fairly well, though the dynamic range isn't more than 3 stops and it's strangely grainy, almost like a Matisse. I've been using corn oil, which is moderately dense. I'm wondering if I might get better results with a lighter oil, or, perhaps a thinner paper (one of those Japanese bark papers?). Anyone out there doing this process who might comment?

Al Lockwood
moss bloom studio

jrhilton
03-03-2014, 02:23 AM
I've been trying printing a negative (out of Photoshop) onto drafting vellum, then oiling it for transluscence and contact printing it. That works fairly well, though the dynamic range isn't more than 3 stops and it's strangely grainy, almost like a Matisse. I've been using corn oil, which is moderately dense. I'm wondering if I might get better results with a lighter oil, or, perhaps a thinner paper (one of those Japanese bark papers?). Anyone out there doing this process who might comment?

Al Lockwood
moss bloom studio

I've been using paper negatives for Cyanotypes for years. In my experience the best method is to put the paper on a warm kitchen plate warmer with some tissues under it and use melted beeswax. It takes a bit of practice but is better than any oil in my own experience. If you do want to use oil, then "baby oil" works ok but it takes quite a long time to dry fully.

TheToadMen
03-03-2014, 04:04 AM
I've used pure linseed oil before on paper negatives with good success. Just poor some oil in the middle and rub it in - making circles - gently until it is all absorbed. Then poor some more and repeat.
BTW: I didn't use vellum, but Ilford photo paper, of which I peeled of the plastic back layer.
83536

mossbloom
03-03-2014, 11:45 AM
Cool--and thanks!
Al

jnanian
03-03-2014, 01:27 PM
parafin works well too