View Full Version : Alt Print Exchange Round 2 May 2006

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03-18-2006, 03:22 PM
I still have no idea of what to do or how to do it. I expect it will all come together in a rush right at the deadline - or maybe not...

03-18-2006, 08:30 PM
:D That's okay Ole, you guys might be guinea pigs for some experimentation by me this round. ;)

03-20-2006, 07:28 AM
Ok- my prints are done. I've posted a scan of the image (apologies for the crappy scan) in my gallery for those in the exchange who aren't getting the print but might want to see anyway. The image title is Cable Truck, Train Station, Springfield, Mass.

03-20-2006, 08:50 PM
I just received Mark Fisher's print in the mail today. It's really good and I like the tonality. Nice job, Mark!

03-21-2006, 08:45 AM
I've received Mark Fisher's print too - well done! (And an extra round of applause to the post service, which for once managed to deliver a pristine print in record time!)

04-04-2006, 04:27 PM
Well its arrived and its stunning - better in the flesh! Thanks John - it'll find its way to the wall asap!

04-04-2006, 05:34 PM
I've also received Mark Fisher's print. Wonderful image. Kudos.

04-04-2006, 11:08 PM
OK, I just packaged up my prints for mailing tomorrow. It's a PT print using the Photographer's Formulary Kit. This is only the second PT I ever made, so please give me feedback - good or bad - I can take it!

The image I am sending is in my gallery - it's the swing carousel taken at twilight. It seems to be the image most people like, so I hope you guys like it too.

Looking forward to your prints as well.

Regards, Art.

04-15-2006, 05:39 PM
Will someone remind me whether the deadline is the beginning of May or the end of May? Thanks.


04-15-2006, 06:36 PM
End of May.

David A. Goldfarb
04-15-2006, 06:44 PM
I think my schedule and the sun's schedule are finally working out, so I've mixed up some silver nitrate solution and plan to sensitize tonight so I can get some albumen printing in tomorrow for this exchange and alt-exchange #1. Sorry for the long delay, folks!

04-15-2006, 07:39 PM
End of May.

phew... we might get a sunny day that align's with the printing gods by then!

04-22-2006, 04:21 PM
Group 2, I mailed your prints today.


04-23-2006, 06:27 AM
I wanted to publicly thank Joe Lipka who PMed me an outstanding critique. Joe analyzed my pic and give me an in depth review which I will take to heart. I am going to excerpt parts of it here, since I think his comments have merit to any noobie like me:

Deniser negatives are better

Your negative needs to be denser. More robust. Thicker, bullet proof. You know what Iím talking about. How can I tell? Hereís how to tell. You need to print for maximum black through the clear edge of the film. You should not be able to discern between the black that is printed through the clear film base and the black that does not have film over it.
Expose for shadowsand develop for highlights

Once you get to that point, then what you will find is that your whites are not white. They will probably be grey. Then, you need to increase your exposure and development to get the highlights correct. Remember expose for shadows, develop for highlights?
Use good paper

Good paper than Fabriano.
Use a high quality synthetic hair brush and not a foam brush or puddle pusher

If you wish to continue with alternative processes, get yourself the Richeson series 9010 brush. It really is a superior brush for coating. Itís also much more expensive. I was not a true believer until I actually used one. I will not go back to my puddle pusher (coating rod).
Use the negative to control contrast, not the chemistry

From the Photographerís Formulary web site, I see their kit contains two Ferric Oxalate solutions. One is used for the contrast control. This is not the best way to control contrast. My experience is that the negative has to be the primary controller of the contrast when using the second FO as a contrast agent. I have been told that if you make your solution a high contrast one, the FO as a contrast agent will cause grittiness in the highlights.
Use a sturdy contact print frame

In terms of image quality, it looks a little bit soft. That occurs when the negative is not in complete contact with the paper all during exposure. So you need to be careful about the printing frame that you use. It doesnít have to be fancy, just sturdy and very solid.
I think this is solid basic information to get noobs like me to the next level. Thanks Joe.

Regards, Art.

04-23-2006, 12:23 PM
I can't wait until Joe gets my print! Helpful criticisms like that are few and far between. Many thanks for posting it, Art.

04-24-2006, 10:47 PM
Group 7 might be guinea pigs for a shot taken with my new camera. :D

Mark Fisher
04-24-2006, 10:57 PM
Diane -- I hope so.........


04-26-2006, 09:19 PM
Came home to some great pics today!

A nice PT from Jeremy Moore and an amazing one from Joe Lipka. Joe typed up an in depth disertation on how the print was made that is invaluable. One day, I'll make a print half as good.

Thanks, Art.

05-13-2006, 07:31 AM
OK I have finally got my prints together, and ready to post. Those in my group will be receiving this image soon. I have posted it into the Experimental gallery today.

I had a few wobbly moments with a new paper but the ever helpful John Brewer helped me through it. For his endevours he will receivea print as well. Thanks again John.

Carl, If you send me your address by PM I will send you a tea-toned tulip in recompense for the images you sent me last year.



05-14-2006, 10:12 AM
Received an incredible Pt/Pd Nude print from Allen Friday this week. Wow! Nicely done!