I have tea toned some cyananotypes other than bleaching is there any other info out there on using any other toning methods that are not hazardous


rgds
Dusty

Define "Hazardous". I've seen prints of all kinds toned in anything from coffee to Uranium. Uranium and Mercury being on one extreme end (definitely in the Hazardous range), coffee being the other. I've even heard of bodily fluids being used (don't ask). A lot of toners would fall in the middle between mercury and coffee. To me, most toners are perfectly safe so long as you use reasonable precautions - rubber gloves, don't drink it, don't put it up your nose. Even sepia toner is more stinky than harmful. Just use well-ventilated and you're fine.

You could use a warm lead acetate solution to give a more lavender shade but it also lightly bleaches the image and isn't too repeatable.

You could use a warm lead acetate solution to give a more lavender shade but it also lightly bleaches the image and isn't too repeatable.

Please note that Lead Acetate is quite toxic! IME, Lead Acetate gives a more blue (usual cyanotype color minus green) color, without bleaching. Maybe solution's strength was too high (I use 5% Lead Acetate).

Regards,
Loris.

I recently tea toned some cyanotypes in black tea brewed VERY strong (1/4 cup of loose leaf tea in 1 pint of water). I didn't bleach, subsequently i had to leave the prints in the toner for a long time (4 hours).

The cyanos after that time lost all their deep prussian blue, which was replaced by a reddish brown. the overall density was reduced about a half stop (this is a guess), and left a creamy yellow in the high lights.

Test this before putting your prize winner in it.

Christopher Breitenstein

Hi,

FWIW, when I bleach the prints before toning (using mild alkali solutions such as Sodium Carbonate / Borax / Ammonia) *without letting the bleach affect the darkest shadows* and then tone with tannic acid, I get a considerable dmax increase w/o stain (tea will stain the paper considerably). See an example here (split toned as I described above):

http://www.loris.medici.name/Cappadocia-Split-Toned-Cyanotype.jpg

If you clear the print thoroughly (4 minutes development in plain water + 4 minutes 2% citric acid + 10 minutes final wash - changing water at least 5 times) before toning in tannic acid, you'll have cleaner whites = a much more snappy print.

Regards,
Loris.

I recently tea toned some cyanotypes in black tea brewed VERY strong (1/4 cup of loose leaf tea in 1 pint of water). I didn't bleach, subsequently i had to leave the prints in the toner for a long time (4 hours).

The cyanos after that time lost all their deep prussian blue, which was replaced by a reddish brown. the overall density was reduced about a half stop (this is a guess), and left a creamy yellow in the high lights.

Test this before putting your prize winner in it.

Christopher Breitenstein

Hi,

FWIW, when I bleach the prints before toning (using mild alkali solutions such as Sodium Carbonate / Borax / Ammonia) *without letting the bleach affect the darkest shadows* and then tone with tannic acid, I get a considerable dmax increase w/o stain (tea will stain the paper considerably). See an example here (split toned as I described above):

http://www.loris.medici.name/Cappadocia-Split-Toned-Cyanotype.jpg

If you clear the print thoroughly (4 minutes development in plain water + 4 minutes 2% citric acid + 10 minutes final wash - changing water at least 5 times) before toning in tannic acid, you'll have cleaner whites = a much more snappy print.

Regards,
Loris.

:) :)

I have been gradually getting back into cyanotypes lately and had this same question. A little google search ended up giving me loads of information. Unblinking eye has a good section on this if I remember correctly. Give "the google" a try.

Patrick

Hi,

FWIW, when I bleach the prints before toning (using mild alkali solutions such as Sodium Carbonate / Borax / Ammonia) *without letting the bleach affect the darkest shadows* and then tone with tannic acid, I get a considerable dmax increase w/o stain (tea will stain the paper considerably). See an example here (split toned as I described above):

http://www.loris.medici.name/Cappadocia-Split-Toned-Cyanotype.jpg

If you clear the print thoroughly (4 minutes development in plain water + 4 minutes 2% citric acid + 10 minutes final wash - changing water at least 5 times) before toning in tannic acid, you'll have cleaner whites = a much more snappy print.

Regards,
Loris.

how much tannic acid is used? and does the print need to be cleared after toning?

Quantity: I use 1 dessert spoon per 1lt. It dissolves very slowly. It's reusable with filtering.
Washing: I don't know - but I wash the print thoroughly after toning.

how much tannic acid is used? and does the print need to be cleared after toning?

Quantity: I use 1 dessert spoon per 1lt. It dissolves very slowly. It's reusable with filtering.
Washing: I don't know - but I wash the print thoroughly after toning.

Thank you Loris.