I am wanting to experiment with lith printing and do not just want my photographs to look JUST toned (ie: sepia/selenium) I am interested in the multi color as well as the texture etc with the rich blacks.

I have Tim Rudman's books and each time I come up with a combination of paper/chemicals that seems like his recommendation, I can not find one or the other. So, I am having a hard time finding what combination of paper and chemicals will have the results I want. I am also finding that much of what I look for in America does not exist. (moersch seems pretty cool but can't find it)

Thus, any help with that combination would be great. There are many choices of paper available, but the chemistry is less available.

Also, if I am just beginning, what size paper would be best to start with?

Thanks in advance.

http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/

Due to the fact Moersch has no USA dealer you could ask for a direct delivery.

Best and simple start: Easy Lith 2x100ml + Fomatone classic paper.

On our website we have a translated Dutch version for Lith prints, maybe Moersch has some English version:
http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Anleitung-Lith-nl.pdf

You could ask him. Fomatone can be delivered in all regular formats.

Best regards,

Robert

First locate one of the papers he recommends and go from there. Finding both paper and chemicals simultaneously is difficult.
After you have the paper in hand, check suppliers such as Artcraft, Bostick & Sullivan, Photographers Formulary and other chemical suppliers for the chemistry. I believe if you contact Dr. Rudman with questions he will respond. Since he does workshops each year through Photographers Formulary, they could be the most likely supplier.

Freestylephoto.biz carries Kentmere, Foma and Ilford papers as well as a few different brands of Lith chemistry.

Freestyle carries Maco Superlith and Fotospeed LD20 and a huge amount of papers that lith well.

B+H carries the Fotospeed LD20 and plenty of papers that lith well.

Digitaltruth carries Rollei Vintage Creative, which from what I understand, is just Maco Superlith renamed and plenty of papers that lith well.

I don't think it's too hard to find lith developer and papers, there's lots of it out there.

Fotospeed lith paper will give you the gritty look in almost any lith chemistry

Jaap jan

Second the Foma MG Classic. Pinks, beige, browns and sometimes a little green when the developer is good and worn out. Always wanted to try the Fotospeed paper, but it's expensive.

I've tried several developers, but it seems like Kodalith Super RT has the best shelf life in stock solution. The LD20 data sheet says it should be used within 60 days of opening. This I read after buying the 5 liter jugs! I believe Macolith is similar.

I love Varycon in LD20. Great paper for lith and cheap. Kentona is also very nice but a bit finicky for me. I get it all from Freestyle.

I've posted some varycon prints recently so you can see how they look in my galleries.

Lith is great. It's changed the way I see.

...I have Tim Rudman's books and each time I come up with a combination of paper/chemicals that seems like his recommendation, I can not find one or the other. So, I am having a hard time finding what combination of paper and chemicals will have the results I want.

Tim updates his information on papers and chemicals periodically. He posts the info on his World of Lith website
http://www.worldoflithprinting.com/news.php You might want to have a look there.

Dan

...The LD20 data sheet says it should be used within 60 days of opening. This I read after buying the 5 liter jugs! I believe Macolith is similar.

I have never used all of my lith developer within 60 days of opening the bottles. This includes LD20, Maco Superlith and Naccolith developers. I went through a phase of doing no lith printing and when I returned to it about a year later, my Superlith (which was about half full) gave me the same results as before.

I noticed a fall-off of the lith effect with the LD20 after about four months. Prints still developed and I got the same colors, but no infectious development. Perhaps the sulfite/bromide balance was not right for the paper, but I was pulling my hair out over it. That's when I actually read the materials, and it says 60 days. I still have a few liters, maybe from what you say I should give it another go and play with the chems a little more.

I'd definitely give it another shot. Hell if there is a change, it might be something you like. You never know ;)

You know something else Travis, this was before I tested papers for accelerators in the emulsion, and I wondered if it would dissolve into the lith developer and kill the effect. I bounce around quite a bit on papers, mostly culled from garage sales and such. Since I started testing the papers with NaOH before trying to lith them, I haven't had the problem of inactive developer. What do you think?