My average speed on the road bike is 33km/h with a mean cadence of 96rpm—a conditioned open road speed that many of my riding companions also have, if some of a higher cadence/lower speed. I have found my road bike is affected by side winds but less so by headwinds, with the main affect deviance (or 'stutter'). Yesterday afternoon another fellow riding a 6.9kg Fuji carbon fibre (costing all of AU$7,950) bike spoke of the alarm of being buffeted about in a light breeze at speed. He, like me, weighs in at 57kg and we thought that maybe light riders should not ride the lighest bikes, but this is merely speculative "sitting-on-the-fence" thinking! My road bike weighs 11.3kg and it's quite fast enough for me (too fast at times).

I too have a HRM (POLAR); I get up to 186 beats-to-the-bar under force, which settles into a 128 on steady, rhythmic riding. My upper zone is 220 and lower zone is 60 (which is recorded when sleeping!).

On 20-21st September I will be joining a group riding a Double Century ... that is, a double 'imperial' road ride of 100 miles. In metric terms, this is 327.4km (over the route) over Saturday and Sunday. It's not a race, just a leisurely group ride for roadies (most of us have been riding for close to 30 years) staying ovenight in pub on the Saturday. Our average speed must be roughly 27km/h to knock off 167.7km in 7 hours (with some very steep climbs and gravel). Just hope the weather holds out: winter down here in Australia is the wettest and coldest August since 1943 and today I'm meant to be riding ... but in the hail?!

I advise against riding fast in city traffic, and instead 'read ahead' road and traffic conditions and be prepared to stop suddenly. In wet weather, keep well clear of traffic wherever and whenever that is possible as you will have slippery hazards such as road markings, metal grates, sewer plates/vents et...all are potentially very dangerous in clement conditions.

Now, I'm off on the ENDEAVOUR VII! Ciao.

Just a note, I've decided not to get another bike.
The Ideal Megisto is a fine ride for me and I don't have the money to invest in another even if we're talking just a couple hundred euros. What changed my mind was a silly to many thing but important to me: the new Specialized Crosstrail has a new color scheme that I do not like. The 08 version was elegant and beautiful, the new is too sporty for my tastes. Well, I am sorry, better or not, I can't ride a bicycle I don't like the looks of.
So, I decided to give the present one atleast a couple years and if in the future have a couple thousand to spare, I may buy a new bicycle. I really got tired of trying to find the "perfect" bicycle for my price range and all the shit about geometries and stuff. I am poor, so I am in the low end scale where choices are few, so in the end, it doesn't really matter.

If you are happy with the bike you have then there is nothing wrong with that. If at a later date you decide again you would like a different cycle look around and see if anyone is selling the old model bike. Many bike shops are still selling 2007 model bikes at good discounts.

Aristotelis, there is no rule about how fast you have to go n your bike. You can even join the Slow Bicycle Movement (http://theslowbicycle.blogspot.com/) if you wish.

Andy, you misunderstood me. I just wanted to have a point of reference, one little piece of cycling knowledge. I am not racing anyone or pushing myself.
I am not far from what the Slow Bicycle Movement proposes: I ride a city bike, in normal clothing and in speed that traffic allows me. I don't live in a cycling-friendly city like Copenhagen though, where with bicycle lanes and many cyclists on the road, being part of a common philosophy is needed.

My point of reference and bicycle mantra is "Ride to Eat, Eat to Ride." My passion for bikes and photography is equaled by my passion for fine cuisine (incl desert) and at my age the more I eat (especially anything that raises the blood-sugar) the more I need to ride. So a weekend of...uh...marginal over indulgence, is followed by a week of aerobic redemption.

Point two, I hate going to the office but since I've been biking, the journey makes is worth the effort, plus I get pretty grumpy if I don't get my rides in. I don't have any time before or after work to ride, so I've made it part of the process.

Aristotelis:

Do you find that while riding your bicycle, that you see photo opportunities that you otherwise would have missed, and does bicycling make it easier to take advantage of them?

Matt (who drives too much, and definitely regrets it when I cannot stop!)

Aristotelis:

Do you find that while riding your bicycle, that you see photo opportunities that you otherwise would have missed, and does bicycling make it easier to take advantage of them?

Matt (who drives too much, and definitely regrets it when I cannot stop!)

I know I do. I'm always doubling back after seeing a photograph as I ride.

Just a note, I've decided not to get another bike.
The Ideal Megisto is a fine ride for me and I don't have the money to invest in another even if we're talking just a couple hundred euros. What changed my mind was a silly to many thing but important to me: the new Specialized Crosstrail has a new color scheme that I do not like. The 08 version was elegant and beautiful, the new is too sporty for my tastes. Well, I am sorry, better or not, I can't ride a bicycle I don't like the looks of.
So, I decided to give the present one atleast a couple years and if in the future have a couple thousand to spare, I may buy a new bicycle. I really got tired of trying to find the "perfect" bicycle for my price range and all the shit about geometries and stuff. I am poor, so I am in the low end scale where choices are few, so in the end, it doesn't really matter.

It is not "silly to many": colour schemes do have some bearing on choice. I couldn't see myself riding a green and yellow bike, or a blue and white one, but feel quite happy riding a Cervalo Soloist in red and white. Initially, I was put off / iffy about the "colour scheme" of my GIANT CRX-ZERO: a metallic grey. Then it tweaked to me that you can coordinate accessories to compliment the "base colour". I have no regrets at all now.

Ari, the "geometries and stuff" is the preserve of bicycle tourists and competitive cyclists (chiefly time trialists): it should not be on your radar and if there is a bike shop sales person reciting this to you as just an 'around town' cyclist, he is way off the mark, in addition to (understandably) peeving you off! Go with whatever you are comfortable and happy with, for as long as you want to.

Money will come. In the meantime, enjoy the ride. :)

Geometry is important to anyone considering buying a bike as far as frame size is concerned. Someone who is 6'2" would get back ache pretty quickly on a bike with a 20" frame.

Aristotelis:

Do you find that while riding your bicycle, that you see photo opportunities that you otherwise would have missed, and does bicycling make it easier to take advantage of them?

Matt (who drives too much, and definitely regrets it when I cannot stop!)
Hmmmm, not really. At least, not yet.
And by "not yet", I mean that my rides are so far fairly short and around familiar places in town so I have yet to explore any new places.
When we had the family Jeep Wrangler (now my father decided to sell it and buy a Compass, yuck!) I have many times thought of carrying a two wheeler (a bike or motorbike) so I could stop somewhere and reach places I wouldn't be able with the car.
Now, in my town, I always go around by foot, save for the rare occasions that a friend picks me up on his vehicle or need to take a cab. On foot, I always look for street photo opportunities even when I don't carry a camera.
On the bicycle, I pay so much attention to the road and the traffic and the stupid things drivers and pedestrians do that my mind doesn't often go to photography.

Ah, I am fine with this bicycle. Its the cheapest one can get, so there are always going to be better frames and better components. But I have no complaints and so I am keeping it for now. After all, I don't know how my life's going to be and if giving the money for a better bicycle would be a good investment.

Geometry is important to anyone considering buying a bike as far as frame size is concerned. Someone who is 6'2" would get back ache pretty quickly on a bike with a 20" frame.

Frame size is important, yes, but core geometry such as head angle, fork rake, seatpost angle, stays etc., are not. Road bike and longreach touring frames are so good nowadays that few consider these perplexing details of relevance unless they are purists, though there is greater relevance for touring cyclists.

I've covered 83.7km today in rain and cold. Tomorrow I sleep in!! :D

Frame size is important, yes, but core geometry such as head angle, fork rake, seatpost angle, stays etc., are not. Road bike and longreach touring frames are so good nowadays that few consider these perplexing details of relevance unless they are purists, though there is greater relevance for touring cyclists.

I've covered 83.7km today in rain and cold. Tomorrow I sleep in!! :DFrame geometry is a major factor in determining the position of the rider. Another important measurement is the wheelbase which affects stability and turning. So yes, geometry does matter.

I went for a ride around town this evening with little traffic and took note of my speeds:
- Comfortable pace with no effort: 16-18 Km/h
- Average high speed: 24-26 Km/h
I found out that I mostly use the second front gear and 1-3 of the back gears, which is gears 9-11 I guess.
I try to pedal fast (high cadence?) and only switch to a higher gear if I feel I am "loosing" the pedals. I also let the bike cruise without pedaling for most of the time.
If only I didn't sweat like a pig!
Today I met an old acquaintance of mine and he had the idea to go cycling together. He has a rode bike he road in England where he studied but haven't used it here in fear of the traffic. I told him of course that I have no endurance and can't go far, so we'll see.

I went for a ride around town this evening with little traffic and took note of my speeds:
- Comfortable pace with no effort: 16-18 Km/h
- Average high speed: 24-26 Km/h
I found out that I mostly use the second front gear and 1-3 of the back gears, which is gears 9-11 I guess.
I try to pedal fast (high cadence?) and only switch to a higher gear if I feel I am "loosing" the pedals. I also let the bike cruise without pedaling for most of the time.
If only I didn't sweat like a pig!
Today I met an old acquaintance of mine and he had the idea to go cycling together. He has a rode bike he road in England where he studied but haven't used it here in fear of the traffic. I told him of course that I have no endurance and can't go far, so we'll see.That sounds about right. I don't have a computer, but I sometimes figure out my average speed from distance and time. I usually find my speed to be somewhere around 12mph (20km/hr). Really depends on the conditions. It takes me a little longer if I'm going into a headwind or taking a ride after being off my bike for a while.

After a long break (and it has been way too long!), my ~10 mile commute to work takes ~40 minutes...that is an average of ~15 miles per hour (24 km/hr). After getting back into it for a month or so and doing the ride 3 to 4 days a week, I might pick up another 5 MPH. This is at a comfortable but fast pace, highest gear (mountain bike w/ road tires)...once I get myself back into bike-shape.

The ride is mostly flat, mostly along the highway. Two traffic light on the way to work, four lights on the way home. The ride along the bay is almost a half-circle...any wind (common) will be a tail wind, side wind and a head wind somewhere along the bay. My favorite time to ride is after an long evening in the darkroom - getting on the road at 2am and riding along the bay -- no traffic, quiet, beautiful and usually no wind. Have not done that in a long time. Worse time is evening rush hour in the rain in the winter, but I get off of work at 1pm, so usually that is not a problem.

Vaughn

I am looking for a bag or backpack for the rack.
I know Trek makes a series that attaches to the specific Trek rack that I have with a quick release button.
Bicycle rack specific bags usually attach with straps and velcro.
I haven't seen any being sold in stores around here so I was thinking of buying a cheap box-type backpack and attach it with elastic straps or something.
I will mostly need it for groceries or other purchases and maybe for a shirt trip or something.
Anything to suggest?

And, btw, anybody uses Sigg bottles?
I am getting sick already of my cheap plastic one as the water inside tastes like shit.

Before buying a backpack, try borrowing one, fill it as you think you will need to with groceries etc. In other words make the weight about equal to what you will carry and then ride 10-20 miles and see how you feel. Unless you have a very strong back or will keep your rides very short I think you will find it a great strain. The back may be OK for a backpack if you are walking upright but cycling is wholly different.

If the back was right for carrying on a bike then bicycle rack and bagmakers would be out of business. Make the bike the beast of burden not your back.

For a small amount of weight a saddle bag is fine or a bag on a carrier on top of the back wheel. If you need to carry more weight, then a bag on the front of the bars equalises the weight. You need to distribute weight as equally as possible. If you get two bags on a rack either side of the backwheel then fill them equally. A bike is remarkably stable and steers easily even with heavy weights provided there are distributed equally. A bike which has more weight on one side than the other is difficult to steer and can get very unstable, especially at quite a high speed such as going downhill.

pentaxuser

Thanks PU, but I think you somehow got stuck on my mention of a backpack.
The keyword I've used is "rack". I want a bag for my rack, not for my back.
I mentioned a backpack because I can loosely attach it to the rack as finding a rack specific one is a problem.

I have a rack bag that attaches to the rack with velcro straps, it works pretty well. When it is zipped closed it can't carry a lot, it's roughly the size of a six-pack. But you can leave the top open and it will support a grocery bag (at least the old-fashoned paper ones). I've never used mine with the plastic bags.
I have Sigg water bottle. I don't use it much. First off, they rattle. Secondly, they aren't as convienient to drink from as you cannot squeeze them, and the flow is less because it has to vent as you are drinking. There are bottles on the market that add little or no taste, they cost more though. Try a commerical bottled water or soft drink bottle, if you can't find a suitable one from the bike shop.
It helps to fill the bottle when new, with a mixture of very hot water, and baking soda overnight, then rinse well.

Barry

I am looking for a bag or backpack for the rack...

Ari, I have one serious thing I think about some time. I have front basket and will get back rack and basket for it or panniers, but my problem is vibrations of bike caused by driving. I mean, not vibrations per se, but I use RF camera (Bessa R2A), and I wonder if alingment of RF would go off if I put it (in bag) into bike baskets or even bike bag. Things like that are also something to think about. Maybe rucksack or bag carying on ones side would be better for certain things, like RF cameras.

Anyone?

Keep the camera around your neck, keep everything else in the bag. ;)

Hmmm... Thanks Andy, but I think bag and carry it on side of me. Hanging camera on neck while driving... :)

I am interested but can't find a store in the EU that sells the Sigg bottles.
Amazon doesn't deliver them outside the US or UK and a couple other stores I've found seem to be out of them.
Any pointers?

Any pointers?

I use a Soma water bottle (http://www.somafab.com/bottle.html). I've used Camelbaks and various plastic (LDPE) bottles but so fair I am fairly pleased with the Soma bottle, no taste, no BPAs.